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For anyone is interested and those who have offered advice so far: Mike (Middleton, et al) convertible top is on hold until more urgent mechanical needs are addressed, although I did learn from Ken at Midwest Remanufacturing that the top motor is original to the car. Tranny lines: As discussed, they offered much resistance. After soaking and gentle attention right side released without issue and hoped this was a good sign. Had to cut the other side but expected to chop both so I look at it as a win. Drive shaft is back from the drive line shop with new bearing, suppport, joints and a fresh balance - shooting for install on Saturday. Picked up recored radiator today. The shop was cautious and the original tank markings are intact. hope to get that in too, all depends on bending a nice replacement for the cut transmission line. Thanks for the help, Jim

Hi Mike, I probably should have done this when I first joined. Recent assistance over the years and genuine support from you and others in the membership helping with my current project hade me realize this post is long overdue. So, here goes... I am a Sales Manager at an industrial chemical manufacturer. Born in Chicago and raised in the south suburbs where I now reside with my wife. I've had my share of Buicks but not as many as some. Like a lot of us, I always liked all cars, probably rubbed off from my father. I am Buick by association. After my mother received her driver's license in 1963, dad dumped the '54 Bel Air and bought her a creampuff '57 Special and a pick-up for himself. Over time, the Special was replaced by a '62 LeSabre and then a '65 Wildcat. An obvious pattern was developing; Dad liked Buicks and this latest turned out to be his favorite. He referred to it as 'The Big B". By the time I was 15 years old, driving was all that was on my mind. One evening after dinner, my dad said it was time to get my mom "another car" (he always bought used and was careful never to say "new"). He asked if, rather than trading it in, if I would like to have Mom's old car - under certain conditions. I anxiously agreed to every single rule Dad set forth. Seven months and most of my meager savings later (repairs were part of the agreement) an arctic white, 1965 Buick Wildcat, 4 door hardtop with crystal blue vinyl interior and p/w, a/c, conering lamps, speed minder and trunk release in the glove box became my first car. Many Buicks followed but none ever compared to the feeling I had back in 1973 when I rolled into the parking lot at school behind the wheel my "Big B". The die was cast. Thanks to all, Jim BCA 43102 Former Buicks: '65 Wildcat '69 Wildcat '70 Riviera "72 Rivera '69 Electra conv. Current Cars: '55 Olds '64 Wildcat conv. s

Update for anyone who is interested and those who have given advice so far: Convertible top is on hold until mechanical needs are addressed. Did learn from Kenny at Midwest Remanufacturing that the top motor is original to the car. Yep... Fifty year old tranny lines did not want to let go of lower rad tank. After soaking and gentle attention, one side finally spun off without a hitch. As expected but not welcomed, the other began to twist and needed to be cut in order to remove radiator for recore. Drive shaft came out easily and the driveline shop was happy to replace the u-joints, carrier bearing, bearing support and balance - in by 9 out by 5. Hoping to have radiator returned by weekend as a drive would be nice on Sunday. Tonight: check fluid level in rearend. There is a leak and I do not know how long this condition has gone unattended. While cleaning prior to spraying with PB, noticed the plug was a little beat-up inside. Is there a better removal technique other than the 3/8" drive of a ratchet or breaker bar? Would like to remove and replace with a square male head rather than female. Thanks, Jim BCA 43102

I have a slight vibration at rest in a '64 Wildcat which led me to his posting. After reading all the potential solutions with interest and building anticipation, it ends with no resolution. Was the problem ever finally identified?

Thanks to John, Pete, Tom & FlatTop - New lines are ordered and will have at ready when radiator is removed. Figuring out a safe procedure for lifting and securing car for easy access and removal of drive shaft. Will do shaft first. Thanks again, advice from the Forum is invaluable and much appreciated. Jim BCA 43102

I have a '64 Wildcat, recently acquired, 75K, from original owner. Going over car, getting ready to attend to immediate needs and have some quick questions (I'm sure more will follow in coming weeks) 1. Radiator appears to have never been out of car and needs repair. Top hose looks newer with recent hose clamps. Lower hose has old, rusted center pull clamps. Concerned over precautions in detatchment of transmission cooling lines. Rusty surface 6 inches from fitting then clean(er) metal. Do not want to create more problems. Fittings are soaking now but do not want to attempt to break them after 50 years if there is a high risk of damage. Advice? 2. How do I identify gen/alt as original? 3. Squeaky U-Joints but no vibration or rumbling. Better to pull shafts and do complete rebuild, including carrier bearing, or just the joints? Thanks, Jim BCA 43102 Chicago, IL

Old Tank, I agree. If there are any readers/members with the same top, which operates as indicated in the booklet and are willing to demonstrate, I would welcome the opportunity to view it in action. Equally; if there is anyone with a similar car that functions contrary to the manual (like mine), would like to see that too. I am in the Chicago metro area. I doubt if anything has been done to this this car as there are many little things that were never changed from new. Top appears original as does the entire car. Purchased from estate for original owner and he appears to have been very conscientious about originality. I have a box he marked and saved with the factory plug wires and a spare Wildcat center cap in OEM packaging. Thanks for the comment! Jim

Thanks to Mike, Bill and old Tank - As promised, below are pages from the '64 convertible owners manual that got me started asking these questions. These photos might help explain my earlier questions about not being able to lower the top per the instructions, as my '69 Electra operated differently. So; does anyone's '64 (or other early '60's Buick) function as illustrated? I was not able to pull any measurable top material onto the deck for folding and laying on top of the collapsed bows. Thanks, Jim BCA Chicago, IL Former Buicks: '65 Wildcat '69 Wildcat '70 Riv '72 Riv '69 225 conv. Current: '64 Wildcat conv.

Hi Bill, Spare is where it needs to be, flat on the floor. Pump is anchored in the appropriate location. The "fabric laying on the trunk" comment comes from the separate '64 instruction booklet demonstrating how to properly lower and raise a convertible top. I'll post a couple pages to show you what I mean. But about now (per Mike's '63, above) it looks like that's the way it is. I was trying to go "by the book" but sometimes... well, you know. Thanks, Jim PS - My first car was a '65 Buick

Nice Cat Mike, The position of the lowered top, as seen in the photos, allows ample room for sliding the boot in and out of the channel? Also; when lowering, do you unzip the window or leave it in place. Friend with a '60 Buick said he, "Always unzips the top before lowering". Thanks again, Jim

Mike, Here are 2 photos, side view and from interior. You can see from the interior view how much of the top is stacked above the end of the boot channel. The boot cannot be slid from its channel with the top obstructing its path. Never having this year/model convert before, I expected the top to nest at least flush to the uper most body structure around it (the well trim, for example) as with the '69. The boot was easily removed/installed on that car.Hope the pictures shed some light, or maybe this is normal for this make/model/year, in which case I will learn to work with this configuration. Thanks, Jim

Thanks Mike, I was awayfor the weekend. Willl post picture to illustrate what I mean buy "stack height". Will also expand search to include Impala, same year. Jim

I recently acquired a 1964 Wildcat convertible. This is my second Buick rag top, the former being a '69 225. The operation of the top and the boot installation on the Electra were always simple and trouble free. This '64 is a bit different. The top appears to be original and in "good" condition. It came with the boot in its track, flipped into the back seat area. After checking the rams and motor, my plan was to lower the top, remove the boot and do some unfettered cleaning. The car came with the original 1964 booklet for convertible top operation so, even though this looked to be a little different than the '69, I was confident all would be well. I lowered the windows, unzipped the rear window and layed it in the well. Then, following the directions, lowered the top, stopping 2 feet short to pull the top material onto the deck lid to be folded. Then the top was to be completely dropped and the material on the deck folded over on top bows. I was not able to get any where near the amount of top material out over the trunk to be folded as was pictured in the booklet. Finally lowered the top as deep as it would nest, but there was still so much stacked up at the boot channel ends that removal was blocked. I then attempted to see if the top would actually fit. After much work it finally snapped down all around but the locks sit so high under the boot that it could easily be punctured. I searched the web for a '64 convertible top video but no luck. This is nothing like the "69 - which is okay; they'e different cars, that's what gives them personality. I just need some guidance and advice as to whether this is normal for this year model and I'll learn to deal with it or am I missing something? Thanks to all for taking the time and enjoy your Buick weekend! Jim BCA 43102

To All - I am on vacation and stumbled upon an oppurtunity (maybe). If anyone has a Buick Bugle handy; may I have the contact information for an advisor for '65-66 B-bodies. Need to know key locations or trouble spots when inspecting LeSabre 2 dr hardtop. Thanks for the help! Jim BCA #43182

Mike, How long the car has sat depends on the difinition. I live in Chicagoland so from the end of the driving season (Oct/Nov) until around mid-April, the car goes into hibernation. During summer months, drives are weeknights and weekends, weather permitting (convertible). But if sending unit can be suffer from long periods of inactivity... as suggested by Bhirdog, I'll start easiest and work up. Maybe just ground. Thanks! Jim BCA # 43102

Need a little advice identifying and correcting faulty fuel gauge reading. Problem: Noticed about month ago (last fill-up) needle would not show "full" by pinning all the way to the right. Took the long way home and eventually it began creeping closer to proper location until a correct reading was finally achieved. The gauge worked properly, with usage, until about an 1/8" below half full, then stalled. Continued to drive and estimated mileage. Took 20 gallons yesterday. Needle acted the same way, only this time never made it all the way to full. Never had this problem with past Buicks of the 60's so this will be a first. Any advice or tips from the membership as to what to check or how to proceed would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim

No John, the window did not move. Since we're on the sibject. What would the suggested preventitive maintenance program for power windows in general as an effort to prolong proper mechanical function? I know nothing lasts forever especially where older vehicles are concerned but I've been lucky with all the Buicks I've had ('65 WC, '69 WC, '70 Riv) I've never torn down the power windows and restored them to crisp, quick original performance. As long as they made it all the way up and down; that was OK for me. But if I'm going into this door, I might as well give them all some attention. Or does the old "if it ain't broke" rule apply here?

Thanks to both Pete and John. Switch appears fine. When attempting to operate again last night, with the garage door closed to quiet the space, I could hear the motor trying to move the window both up and down. After a few seconds of trying the electric motor stopped. I thought it was completely dead the other night. Does this clue indicate a course of action or the supplied information above still stands? Thanks again for the advice! Jim

The passenger window in my "69 Electra has been slow. It finally lifted slowly and stopped 1/2" shy of closed. It will move neither up nor down. The other windows operate OK. I will check the switch block tonight and proceed from there, replacing/repairing as needed. I was down this road many years ago with '70 Riv but the memory fades. I am seeking advice from the membership as what to look for as well as what to look out for. I don't think the door has ever been opened up and I don't want to break anything on my way in. Do the other windows need to be "exercised" more often to prevent this problem from spreading, or is there a PM procedure for power windows? It's a convertible so the windows are usually in the "down" position. Any tips/advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks to all who have replied. It does appear to need an intake manifold gasket as described as in the posts, though I wouldn't have thought it so after only 30M miles. Based upon the high marks with regard to reliability, I intend to make a fair offer based on the necessary repair and hope the seller is reasonable. Thanks again for your input and advice. Jim BCA #43102 Former: '65 Wildcat '69 Wildcat '70 Riviera '72 Riviera Current: '69 225 convert. '55 Olds 88

I am considering the purchase of a 2003 LeSabre Custom sedan for my college age daughter. The vehicle has 30,000 miles, and has been garage kept. Overall, the car appears to be well cared for. I question the potential reliability/service issues related to the 3800 engine, or were those bugs worked out by this production year? Thanks, Jim BCA # 43102

Thanks Bob; that's what I was looking for. Happy motoring! Jim

Thanks Dave. I've seen various tools online that claim to be made for this application. That is kind of what I'm trying to figure out. Is this a removal job (like many others) that require a specialized tool for correct and safe removal or is there an alternative method? I'll gladly purchase a tool, I just want to be sure that 1 week later I don't see a post that says, "...Gee, all you needed to do was take a paper clip and bend it into the shape of the Eiffel Tower, then take a brake spoon and an ace of spades....." You know what I mean? Chicago winters last 'til June; I have plenty of time to do it right. Thanks again, Jim

Thanks; but there is no slap problem, I just need to get the wiper arms off and out of the way. Jim

My memory seems to be going so I hope someone can help. The Oldsmobile shop manual for 1955 shows/explains how to adjust for wiper slap but there are no instructions for proper removal of the wiper arm. I want to say they just pull off but I'm not sure and don't want to damage the arms or surrounding surfaces. I know there are pullers for this application; not sure if I need one or not. Any sage advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim