Guest buckfarmer Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Hi all,My family and I took part in the prewar aftertour this year, and had a great time with everyone. While on the tour I found that the car was very difficult to keep on a straight line. Well I finally found some time to look at the front end alignment and found a few problems. When checking the measurements for toe in I found that the car actually had a toe out. Somewhere in the cars life someone had put a jack under the tie rod arm between the two front wheels and bent it adjusting the toe in to a toe out. (I think it has always had a toe out since I restored it, something I overlooked) Anyway while tryingto correct this I noticed that the passenger side front spring shackle was resting against its stop. And when looking across the front of the car the tires did not line up with the fenders. I installed a spare spring from a parts car. Corrected the toe out and adjusted the steering backlash (which I think was allowing the car to wonder soo much with the tires set with a toe out). While I was servicing the car I did a valve lash adjustment and oil change. As well as changed the transmission oil to 600W on advice from other members on the tour. Can't wait to get out for a test drive. Hope everyone had as much fun as I did on the after tour, a really great time meeting other buick enthusiasts. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 600w is WAY to thick for that transmission! 90 wt is more appropriate.Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Wait! I may be wrong on this. the '30 is a non synchro transmission I believe.Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigersdad Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Don -Are you sure that 600 is too thick for the Synchromesh? People I know that have the '32's and 33's (synchromesh transmission) use 600 weight. A good topic for discussion. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 It has been many years since I had the '31 and 32' Buicks. Both synchromesh transmissions. I dont remember having that heavy an oil in them. I would defer to the owners and service manuals for a proper oil recommendation.I'd think the drag created by 600 W would give the synchros a harder job to do, but I certainly am no expert. The crashbox transmissions certainly are OK with the heavier oils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacrat Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 i think people go heaver because the torque ball leakage ,mine shifts nice with90 but drips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 I use SAE 250WT (same as 600WT depending on what chart you use) in all but my 38 Buick. My 31-57 has synchromesh for 2nd & 3rd gears and has no problems with the heavy lube. The idea is to minimize the time it takes for the gears to re-align while shifting and it works quite well. The heavy lube is essentially a hydraulic brake to speed up shifts; & it minimizes leaks as a bonus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigersdad Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Mark-Thanks for for the explanation on the difference on the weights and that SAE250 and the 600wt are basically the same. I do use the 600wt on my 1932 8-86 and have had absolutely no problems with the synchromesh when shifting.Regards,Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest buckfarmer Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Took the car out today. Ran great. Shifted much better with 600wt instead of 90wt. Steering is better than it was, but still not perfect.Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan at larescorp Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) Point the tires strait ahead so the steering gear is on the center position. Then have a friend turn the wheel while you watch the 2 shafts. The input and output shaft should turn at the same time. If they don't it's a sign that your steering gear is in need of adjustment, or maybe even rebuild. This has to be done on center. If your off of center you will have play. That is the design of the steering gear to help it correct back to center from cornering. If they do start looking into an alignment issue. I'm guessing by the tire in the photo that your using bias ply tires? Edited September 15, 2014 by dan@larescorp (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigersdad Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Neil -Glad to hear that the 600wt works for you. Works for me without an issue. Mark Shaw really knows the cars so he is always a good go to guy on this Forum. And a plus, he's up in your neck of the woods. Just a border crossing away! PS: What Dan says above is correct. I had the same issue with my 1931 Cadillac 355A. Turned out we had to have the steering box re-built.Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Neil: Great to hear of your progress with your steering issues. My 1937-41 still has some wandering issues. While we were on the After-Tour with you at the Vagabond-Lodge I remember you asking about the heavy steering. This made me re-evaluate how my car was steering. Larry and Joan (Red KIA from Pennsylvania). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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