Steve Braverman Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Today I was called to help an elderly friend install a master cylinder in his 1926 Chrysler. The car has hydraulic external contracting brakes. I am puzzled because the master cylinder has no spring inside to push the piston back, neither do the wheel cylinders. This is how it's illustrated in the manual also. This makes it very difficult to bleed.The fluid reservoir on the firewall has a T-handle on it. When I removed the cap and the T-handle, there is a long rod with a tapered end that closes off the flow of fluid when the handle is down. The manual says that by pumping this handle up and down, fluid will be forced into the system to bleed the air. I think something is missing. Or am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Is there a second pipe for the air to come out? If not, you probably need to pump up pressure with the hand pump then let it escape, bringing the air out with it. This should bleed the master cylinder. If you need to bleed the wheels, you will have to pump up pressure by hand then bleed the wheel cylinders.That is my guess anyway. It appears they built in the bleeder and hand pump for the reason you name. Later on they eliminated the pump, by putting a spring in the master cylinder.I know nothing about early hydraulic brake systems but it seems logical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintchry Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Steve, Originally the pistons had a recess in them that accepted a small tit on the wheel and master cylinder cups. If you do not have these you will need springs inside the cylinders. The bleeding of brakes is actually very simple. As the manual says, pump the hand pump, when bleeding the master cylinder just watch inside the reservoir for bubbles, once they stop the master is bled. Then bleed each wheel. We push on the pedal 1/2 way never a full stroke, and bleed each cylinder, obviously not letting up on the pedal until the bleeder is closed. The secret is having the brakes adjusted as per the manual and then bleeding. If you have excess clearances you will never get brakes. A very good system when all is in place. Call me if you need more clarification.RobHattie's Garage240-344-292two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 We dealt with the same brake system on a '27 Kissel. A bit different but once bled works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Braverman Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 I think the hand pump is missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip26WPC Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 I just purchased my 1st vehicle that has contracting external band brakes. It is 1926 Chrysler G70. The car has been sitting unmoved for 45 years and the front brake bands seem to be stuck to the "drums". So the car will not roll. Can't figure out how to release the band's?? Any ideas! Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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