Shopping for a trailer

I'm currently considering purchase of a new enclosed car trailer. It has to be 22 or 24 feet in length and must have an aluminum frame as weight is an important consideration for me. What I have learned so far is that Featherlite trailers are at or near the top of the line of aluminum frame trailers, but their price isn't just high - it is about double the price of other brands. There are other brands with aluminum frames - inTech, Lightning, Quest, and probably more. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge with these or others that would help me make a choice? Also, any features or updgrades that are vital would help. Thanks in advance.

Might be less expensive to buy a bigger tow vehicle that will handle the weight of a steel framed trailer.

I was directed to an excellent article at the ncregionaaca.com website - if you will go to that site and select "publications" then select "newsletters" then "sept-oct 2006" and subsequent issues (more than a one part article), I think you too will find useful suggestions.

I also have been put off by the Featherlite pricing. I will watch your thread to see if anyone has suggestions.

Jay Fitzgerald

Weight savings is a great benefit of purchasing an aluminum frame trailer, but in reality, it's really one of the last benefits that would make me choose aluminum. Depending on the size of the trailer (and manufacturer) you can look to save between 10-20% in weight...not shabby if you don't have a one ton dually for your tow vehicle.

But there are far more important reason to purchase an aluminum frame trailer. Consider the following benefits:

A) Aluminum will not rust like steel, it does corrode, but at a much slower rate. In theory, two equally built trailers, one in aluminum, the other steel...the aluminum trailer would outlast the steel trailer in usable life.

I have seen many trailers sell on the used market. Aluminum trailers hold their value far better than steel frame trailers. After five years of use, a steel frame trailer is typically worth 50-65% of it's original value...an aluminum frame trailer can be worth 85-95% and in some cases, I've seen 5 year old and older aluminum trailers sell for what they paid for them new. The older the trailer gets the bigger the spread...steel just goes down and down, particularly after 5 years.

C) Life expectancy...figure both trailers are being equally cared for...an aluminum trailer should last 15-20 years or longer...delivering reliable service for its entire life. A steel frame trailer, depending on the manufacturer has a usable life of 5-8 years. Sure, there are exceptions and you might know someone with an older steel frame trailer...but on average these figures are correct.

D) We all know that aluminum frame trailers cost more than steel frame trailers...when you enter in the aluminum frame market the buyers expectations are much higher...so you typically see a higher level of overall quality in an aluminum frame trailer than in a steel frame trailer. Steel frame trailers have become the "me too" of the industry...there's a manufacturer in every corner of the country building them and their level of quality is typically middle of the road or lower (with very few exceptions).

E) If (and I know this to be true) an aluminum trailer starts out being built better, it is typically going to delivery a higher quality of ownership...not how happy you are the day you purchase it...but how happy are you each year you own it...year 4...year 7...year 10? An aluminum frame trailer is typically going to deliver year after year meeting your expectations.

F) Let's face it...even a fairly well equipped steel frame trailer isn't cheap these days...so it gets down to are you considering your trailer an investment or a throw away. If it's an investment, you need to do your research and make certain your investing in the right company. If not...find the least expensive box on wheels and roll the dice. Everyone is looking for value these days...to me value is where you get a fair mix of quality for the money you're spending. You shouldn't get buyers remorse when you purchase a new trailer...and if you value what your putting inside of the trailer you shouldn't purchase on price alone.

One last thing...remember, there is hardly anything in this world that some man, some where can't find a way to build a little cheaper...and people who buy on price alone are his legitimate pray. This couldn't be more true than with trailers.

I'm currently considering purchase of a new enclosed car trailer. It has to be 22 or 24 feet in length and must have an aluminum frame as weight is an important consideration for me.

My 28 foot enclosed trailer is about 34 feet long.

It weighs less than 4000 pounds empty.

Jim

I agree with Restorer32. How many days a year are you on the road with your trailer? An investment is something you put money into to get a profit. Trailers are an EXPENSE. Decide if you want the expense of a Chevy verses a Cadillac. I would rather tow a Chevy and spend the extra 10K elsewhere. When you walk through the trailer parking at a National meet you will see every brand of trailer and they all successfully hauled a car to the meet, they all blow out tires and all need brake service. I still use a steel enclosed 20 ft trailer that was purchased in 1980 to haul my Corvette so any trailer you buy will probably out last you if you take care of it.

As for features get the widest trailer they make along with 16 in wheels as todays trailer tires are all made in China and they lie about their weight capacity. I would also go with at least 7000K axles and install a heavy duty winch. A drivers side door certainly makes loading and unloading easier. Don't trust the tie down rings until you are sure they attach to the frame. I have seen them screwed into 1/2 inch plywood.

If you want to save money take your time and buy a used trailer that will fit your needs. They are all over eBay and Craigs List and often they have only been towed a few times. Just my opinions after towing over 150K since 1978.

I agree with Restorer32. How many days a year are you on the road with your trailer? An investment is something you put money into to get a profit. Trailers are an EXPENSE. Decide if you want the expense of a Chevy verses a Cadillac. I would rather tow a Chevy and spend the extra 10K elsewhere. When you walk through the trailer parking at a National meet you will see every brand of trailer and they all successfully hauled a car to the meet, they all blow out tires and all need brake service. I still use a steel enclosed 20 ft trailer that was purchased in 1980 to haul my Corvette so any trailer you buy will probably out last you if you take care of it.

As for features get the widest trailer they make along with 16 in wheels as todays trailer tires are all made in China and they lie about their weight capacity. I would also go with at least 7000K axles and install a heavy duty winch. A drivers side door certainly makes loading and unloading easier. Don't trust the tie down rings until you are sure they attach to the frame. I have seen them screwed into 1/2 inch plywood.

If you want to save money take your time and buy a used trailer that will fit your needs. They are all over eBay and Craigs List and often they have only been towed a few times. Just my opinions after towing over 150K since 1978.

I don't entirely disagree with what your saying...a trailer is not an investment in the true sense of the word where you're looking for a profit...but for that matter a lot of what people have bought as an investment didn't create a profit or...depending on location most homes today aren't good investments but it won't stop someone from buying a nice one to live in. I guess what I am saying is that with an aluminum trailer you will see a much higher return on your purchase price than you will likely see selling a steel frame trailer...(this would be more factual than subjective).

I would agree that 16" tires a much better choice than a ST205 or ST225/75R15, particularly if you're going to go with an LT tire over an ST tire. A tire is a good place to have more capacity and won't effect too many other things...though keep in mind when you go with a larger tire it will require either a taller wheelbox or the deck height to be raised...both can be counterproductive to loading some cars. Most tire failures on trailers are due to one of a few things...overloading, poor air pressure creating high heat and eventual tire failure, road hazard (nails, debris, etc) and in some cases a combination of the above. It's easy to simply blame a tire for being poor quality (which is sometimes the case) but often the scapegoat for other issues.

I disagree that tires are mislabeled as to their capacity. There are far too many regulations that do not allow for mislabeled tires with lower than true capacities to be brought into the country. As a matter of fact, it is quite the opposite...there are many tires being imported with lower capacities printed on their sidewalls so that they are not effected by Obama's new excise taxes. Many tires, including some Goodyear tires are manufactured in China...but trust they are produced under their own guidelines and quality assurances. Goodyear for one would never risk their reputation on known subpar quality.

One other point that I strongly disagree with you on is arbitrarily equipping a trailer with 7000# axles (or larger), particularly if you're using rubber torsion axles. A trailer will ALWAYS tow better and deliver a better ride if it is loaded closer to it's GVWR than if it were to have 2000+ pounds of spare capacity. Rubber torsion axles need the weight to seat the suspension into its ideal performance range where it's flexing and absorbing bumps rather than pounding over them. Properly specified axles will be far less abusive on the overall trailer, particularly the welds and fastened components. The suspension will respond as it was intended to and tire wear will be significantly less. Handling will be enhanced as tire to road contact will be greater. In addition it will be easier on your cargo and your tow vehicle. You don't want a trailer to ride like a brick wagon.

As for D-Rings...I don't know of any manufacturers today that are installing D-Rings into just the plywood...let alone 1/2" plywood (I wouldn't purchase a trailer unless it had a minimum of 3/4" plywood or Advantech flooring). Some manufacturers might be installing D-Rings with a backer plate that is not welded to the frame...this is not acceptable. The backer needs to be welded across the crossmembers so that it is fully a component of the overall frame.

It goes without saying that an aluminum trailer isn't for everyone...but I stand by my original post and would state that an investment isn't something only measured with a monetary value...sometimes it's intrinsic. It really depends on where someone places their values and what's important to them in a trailer. Remember, you do see a lot of trailers at an event...most of them made it there trouble free...some didn't...some didn't make it at all...and they're not there to see.

I wholeheartedly agree that if you take care of your trailer and maintain it properly it will deliver far more reliable and longer service.

Aluminum trailers are welded together just like steel trailers and in our experience aluminum welds do not handle twisting and flexing as well as steel and are much more difficult for the average welder to repair. One nice thing about aluminum though, open aluminum trailers flex so much that it's easy to load a car what with the rear of the trailer nearly touching the ground as soon as it has any weight on it.

Aluminum trailers are welded together just like steel trailers and in our experience aluminum welds do not handle twisting and flexing as well as steel and are much more difficult for the average welder to repair. One nice thing about aluminum though, open aluminum trailers flex so much that it's easy to load a car what with the rear of the trailer nearly touching the ground as soon as it has any weight on it.

I don't know of a whole lot of welds that handle twisting and flexing real well...steel or aluminum. Frame flex is definitely something that needs to be controlled regardless of the material being used. Panels, trim, doors and other mechanically fastened items will not remain in place long if there is excessive flex in a trailer.

No doubt you need a qualified (certified) welder that specializes in aluminum if you're looking for results that will perform. Weld penetration on steel and aluminum are both very important...often you will find poorly welded aluminum is lacking proper penetration.

If a trailer is flexing so badly that the back of it is drooping or sagging under load, it's a poorly engineered product. I think these statements are basically further reason to make certain that you're dealing with a quality manufacturer...steel or aluminum!

Specific to your question I have not owned an Intech trailer but have seen them. I was very impressed with quality and wouldn't hesitate to buy one if there is a savings over Featherlite. Featherlite has the name recognition which of course helps the re-sale value.

Have you checked curb weight differences between the steel and aluminum trailer of your choice? Just curious what you found. If I recall correctly it averages around 500lb difference on a 24' trailer of similar build. Obviously option variations would affect that.

If you confirm thats about right then the weight savings isn't much benefit unless you are on the road many days a year.

If facts indicate you must trim 500lbs curb weight from your trailer due to towing vehicle contraints, you may already be too close to max even for aluminum. Having a nice cushion between actual and max capacity specs on the tow vehcile offers a huge safety margin IMO.

Its really going to depend how much you'll use the trailer, what your budget is and how many years you expect to own it. There is a reason most of the car hauler enclosed trailers we see are steel framed. Because that type of trailer fits most peoples needs.