jps

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About jps

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    Minneapolis, MN

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  1. It looks like the rear passenger-side axle is broken, but I need to do a few more things before I can be sure. I can't work on it this weekend but the following weekend should be when I know for sure. The hub key on the driver's side is mis-shaped also, and the wheel hub has burrs along the keyway, so I will at least need a new key for that side. I can spin the rear wheel by hand in one direction with it jacked up while in gear. And the axle shaft on the passenger side will slide out very easily (it shouldn't do that) but I can't get it all the way out to see where it broke until I can move the car away from the garage wall (tight garage). I also took off the differential cover, but could see no damage. In the process I noticed something odd on only one side of the axle housing, just inside of the brake drum. It looks like someone added an odd-shaped "patch" or cover (for lack of a better term) on the bottom half of the shaft. This probably is unrelated to my problem, and probably was added by the guy that restored the car before I bought it, but it looks weird and I wonder why it is there.
  2. Thank you to all who replied with suggestions. I will check this weekend and update this post with what I find. I appreciate the suggestions. John
  3. My car was running OK until 3 weeks ago when I stopped at a light and put it in neutral. When the light went green, I tried shifting into 1st, but heard a loud "pop" or "bang", and afterwards thr car would not move (it seemed to be stuck in neutral - it could be pushed). I could put the car into any gear but none of them worked. So it was towed home. Yesterday I opened up the transmission cover and could see nothing wrong. All the gears slide as they should and look to be in really nice condition, and I see nothing broken. The clutch feels the same as before, and when I removed the inspection cover on the top just above the transmission I could see the main or end plate moving in/out as I pushed in and released the clutch, but I can't actually see the multi-disk plates behind the end plate via the inspection hole. So I am guessing that the clutch is OK and the transmission is OK. That leaves the universal joint or the point where the engine connects to the clutch. I have a few of the basic manuals but they don't show much detail about how this is all connected or how to diagnose what is wrong. Is there any book or manual, or are there any service bulletins that might help me figure out what to do next? I don't have experience fixing this but would like to try regardless of the difficulty because I can't do anything with the car now except run the engine. I am OK with doing whatever is necessary as long as I know what that is and how to do it. Thanks John
  4. jps

    1929 Buick Carb and Fuel Pump Needed

    Another guy that can help is Tony Bult in Whitewater, WI. His e-mail is tonybuick272829@gmail.com. He has a lot of other parts for 1929 Buick's as well, should you need them. However, I just bought a 1928 carb from Tony and installed it in my 1929 116" sedan. I did that on his suggestion to eliminate the pot metal carb bowl that was 1st used in 1929. Pot metal is fragile, brittle, and subject to cracking. 1928 carbs still have a brass bowl and I feel much better about the durability of the carb bowl now. Tony will build one up and adjust it for you, then ship it to you if you would like to go that way. I bought a new fuel pump from his too, and it works well. But there are a few minor mechanical variations on the inlet and outlet ports on the fuel pump (which first was used in Buicks in 1929), so you might need to bend new tubes to connect if the new pump is different from what was originally in your car (that happened to me). John
  5. I am looking for 5 lock rings that would work with wire wheels on a 1929 Buick. I also need at least 24 wheel nuts for the same car. I believe the wheels are 20". Thanks. John
  6. Looking for 5 snap rings for 1929 Buick wire wheels, and at least 24 lock nuts. Even if you have just one or a few to sell, I may be interested. Thank you.
  7. I am hoping to get the fuel system back closer to what it originally was. Currently the mechanical fuel pump is not connected, but there is an electric pump that is wired on whenever the ignition switch is on. I want to re-connect the mechanical pump (I already bought a rebuilt one), add a parallel line to the electric pump with tees on both sides, and make the electric one switchable on/off as needed. It looks like the fuel line from tank to pump is 5/16". It also looks like new brass tubing comes in two common wall thicknesses - .014 and .029". I am thinking of using .029" brass with compression fittings. OK? Or should the line be copper instead of brass? Thank you
  8. jps

    WHERE DO YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR

    We still have snow to melt away, but soon I will start driving once in awhile to work - about 25-30 miles round trip over mostly residential and country roads. I love driving this car and wish my dad was still alive to drive his with me.
  9. I have the normal wood wheels on my 1929 standard. I recently bought a set of 5 wire wheels to upgrade, but what else do I need - drums or hubs or ??? Does anyone have some of this to sell? Thanks.
  10. Last week I tried fitting up the new trunk I just finished. I found an article originally written in 1929 on how to build a trunk for your model A, and it was easy to adapt it for my '29 Buick sedan. I don't have the trunk mounting brackets finished yet, and that is why I did the test fit-up as shown in the attached pictures. So far I think it looks pretty good, and am adding places on the new trunk brackets to allow the original spare tire & holder to mount behind the trunk. I have seen a lot of similar trunks on model A's, so I guess this was a popular article in its day.
  11. I am looking for a decent plater in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area that someone else has used and recommends. I don't need a top-notch job done - my car is a driver and it is gar from perfect - but I bought a rear-seat footrest that should be re-plated to look better. This will probably need to be done in chrome, but in the future I might want to do some nickel plating on other parts, so I am looking for a plater that can do both and doesn't mind taking small jobs. Any recommendations? Thanks. John
  12. I am a new BCA member (Oct 2016), this is my first National meet, and I am planning to be a "spectator"on Friday & Saturday mornings - I want to see the cars and check out the swap meet, but I am not bringing my car. Mainly interested in Pre-war Buicks, especially 1927 - 1936. Hope to see a few and get some tips. John
  13. jps

    Carburetor Heat pipe fabrication

    I bent my own new tube for my 29 Standard using a section of aluminum tubing, filling it with wet sand while bending. I think it worked well enough - there are kinks at each bend but it is no longer seeing as much exhaust air since I also made my own thin steel block-off plate for the manifold. However, I am still looking for a good packing material for the tube. I bought some high-temp 1/16" rope but it doesn't stay in very well - would like to find some thin flat material like an electrical grounding strap to use instead.
  14. jps

    Need help - '29 Buick starting

    Thanks everyone for all of the ideas. I do have the original Marvel carb, and I do always start with full choke. I was wondering about trying full throttle to start though - haven't tried that yet, so I will. I did a compression check and the cylinders look OK - about the same or a little better than when I checked them 2+ years ago. All 6 read btwn 50-60 psi. However, I do not get a spark from the ignition coil. This might be a recent development, because I did just replace points, condenser, etc. Luckily I have a spare distributor so I could examine how it works out of the car. In the car I do have 6V to the one side of the ignition coil primary, but the other side should get grounded periodically as the points close, and that is not happening, so either I need to re-adjust the points/spring contact or the screw terminals are corroded. I ran out of time last night so hopefully I can fix it this evening. I appreciate all the comments - hopefully I will have good news soon ... John
  15. I can't get my car started. I know gas is getting to the carb, and I crank the engine several times but it never fires. However, after cranking several times, and after I see fuel leaking out of the air cleaner, I remove a few spark plugs and find they are completely dry. Shouldn't they be wet at that point? I've taken the carb apart several times and fixed small leaks around drain plugs and screws, and verified that the low speed jet is not plugged. I put in a new float and it seems to both let fuel into the bowl and hold it at a level once full. We re-sleeved the heat riser tube 2 years ago and I know it is still solid. I've replaced points, condenser, rotor and distributor cap. Plugs and wires are 2 years old and have less than 500 miles on them. I measured the ignition coil resistances and believe they are OK, but maybe the secondary is a little high (8K ohms). However, if the problem was no spark, why are the plugs dry? I have always had trouble starting this car since I bought it 3 years ago, but eventually I have been able to get it to go except for this year. The mechanical fuel pump is not connected - the previous owner installed an always-on electric fuel pump and I can hear it running (plus the carb leaks gas out of the air cleaner after cranking several times and the bowl is not dry.) Any ideas? Thanks. John