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Everything posted by Hupp36

  1. If you end up buying this car , I would like to tell you about a great club, The Hupmobile Club which has been going strong since 1970. We go on tours, stop for ice cream and are the friendliest people you will ever meet from all over the world. We have fun.
  2. Caroline01, I f you think the posts are cool, you would love a ride in my 36 Hupp.
  3. OK 28 Hupp I will wait for you to get back to me.
  4. Ok, let me tell you about how Hupmobile used the casting # on the head as a part #. It is a very simple way to get the right part for your Hupp. If your # on the head of the car you are looking to purchase matches the # you see on my head, it is the same head. Hupp used the same head on the six cylinders for about 4 years. To answer your original question, No it is not from a 1928 Hupp.
  5. If you look at the top of the head you will see the word HUPP followed by this # 62915 . I have a good head with NO cracks. If you are interested, $150 dollars plus shipping and I will give you a head gasket with it.
  6. The guys in the Hupp club cal my 1936 Model N with Hupp Super drive the White Tornado.
  7. So , what part of the USA are you in?
  8. While working on my friends Pierce Arrow one of his friends asked me if I would have some time to start the engine on his 1921 Stevens. Not even ever seeing one, it sounded like it may be fun. Not knowing a few guys before failed to get the car running. So I made some time and went to check it out. Found some paper work that in 1979 there were something like 24 Stevens that were known of. They called the engine the silent six. It is an overhead engine that has a ball and socket arrangement for the rocker arms. Ok, getting back to the task at hand, start the engine.Th guy said that the engine had been rebuilt some time ago but never started after that. After checking all the the things you need to start an engine I was curious to see how tight the engine was so installed the crank and could not turn the engine over. There was a ballast resistor installed in the system as he had a 12 volt battery as starting power. After making sure we had gas and set the points , I said ok , hit the starter button, Nothing, Checked the battery, full charge. Like my Hupp the Stevens has 1 main bolt that holds the starter in. Took the bolt out and the starter would not move. Got a plastic hammer and gave it a wack. Low and behold, the bendix was stuck in the ring gear. Re installed the starter. hit the starter button and it was running. Popping threw the carb, I noticed 1 of the valves was loose. The valves were exposed so you could adjust them with the engine running. Not wanting to run the engine long with no coolant we shut it down. Added water and that's when w found out water was getting in the oil pan. After removing the valve cover that also holds the water inlet to the block noticed the engineer that designed it must have been smoking something funny when he designed it. I am in the process of trying to figure out the best way to keep the water and oil separated, will let you all know in the next chapter. Here are some pic.
  9. Claes, your crack is in the same place as the car I am working on. I have run the engine a little and then added water and that is when we discovered water in the oil. I had to leave to go North so had to leave the job to someone else to finish. Maybe it will be waiting for me in November. If so, I will complete the job and get that great car back on the road. This is one great car and I can not wait to drive it.
  10. Claes,I think a guy that is a master at welding could weld your valve cover. You just have to find the right person. I used a special rod and welded an engine block 30 years ago and it is still not leaking. Its called nickle cast. But now with the modern wire feed welders it should be easier.
  11. Thank you for the information, I will pass it on to the owner and see if that is something he would like to do.
  12. I would say so, in talking with two owners of this model Stevens, they both cautioned me about how much torque to tighten the cover down. This cover was welded long ago before I removed it to install a new gasket, which we have on order. I only wish I were going to be here in Fl to make and install it. Unless the guy wants to wait until Nov. that's when I will be back down. I also cautioned him about what would happen if its not done correctly.
  13. Maybe. But you positively DO not over torque . Did you happen to see the welded crack?
  14. CHAPTER 2 I called 3 owners of Stevens cars. One could not remember what kind of seal was on the valve cover. Two of them used 1/8th cork sheet gasket material .One dressed with black silicone and the other Permatex High tec sealant .We had to special order the cork gasket material because the guy at the local parts store keep asking me what car does this go on. I hung up on him and went to another source. I am leaving for the north this Friday and the soonest we could get the cork material is April 18 to the 22nd. I told the owner if he is not comfortable with making the gasket, Get a mechanic. Oh, one main thing , both Stevens owners said . Make it in 1 piece. NO exception. I wish I had the material because I wanted the drive this car. I will have to wait until November to do this. Here are more pic, Not cleaned and cleaned.
  15. I will be cleaning the head & valve cover and making a gasket that will hopefully keep the water and oil in there perspective places. I am also going to look at the other owners list of this type of car to see if maybe they had this problem and solved it. Like I said , the engineering on this engine could have been a lot better. But if it left the factory and did not leak , than it can be fixed. God help me.
  16. What you are looking at is a 1931 Hupp Model S roadster. I could not find a close up, but this is the same body.
  17. After driving about 1/2 hour to a show, the great car dies. Got it started by using the primer and got to the show. Drove it after the show same as before, died just before I got it back to the hanger. Hand pushed it into the hanger .As with many cars in my past, it sounded like the ignition coils .Contacted the Pierce Arrow society for help. They pointed me to a parts place that may have some Delco coils. No luck, went to ebay and found some that not being exactly what i needed but were 6 Volt pos ground would tell me if its the coils. Installed the coils , ran the car and about a 1/2 hour latter, it died. Now its up to the condenser. Changed out the condensers and that did the trick. I need this car running fine when I head north. Just looking at this car is one of the greatest feeling that a poor boy like me can have in his life. I drive it, and take car of it. Life is good.
  18. Two weeks ago a friend asked me if I wanted to go up to a town near Chicago to look at a 1927 Pierce-Arrow limo that he was interested in buying. After looking at this car, I was truly in the presence of one of the most prestigious automobiles in my opinion ever produced. Chauffeur driven, divided window the passenger compartment door handles and foot rest are gold plated.This car is a piece of history. At this time the car is in transit to its new home. My friend purchased it. I t will reside in a heated, air condition, dust free environment. Here are a few pic.
  19. St, my friends 1927 Pierce Arrow model 36 is also a dual valve six. I love to drive this car.
  20. I made one for the 29 A Hupp that I was working on to sell .One of the Hupmobile Club members Dave Romani has taken up the project and is having at least 10 made. A fellow contacted me for 1 he needed so I told him to contact Dave. I have at least 2 other Hupps that may need one so I am going to call Dave and get on the list .Thanks for asking. Chuck Moore
  21. Super so glad to hear you got the engine running great. Maybe now I will get back to restoring my 28 Hupp roadster The pic of your car give me the push I need to finish my roadster.. Now I sold the 29 Hupp A sedan I brought to Fl, I need to finish the 26 Ajax and then the 28 Hupp
  22. Well I will be cleaning the Pierce for the last show be fore I head north. It is running great and I am happy. Just to sit in the Chauffeurs seat and drive this piece of history. It is a gift to me that I am so grateful to my friend that lets me drive this car and take it to the car shows .My trophy is talking about the history of this car. But I have never failed to bring home a trophy for the owner who has at least 30 trophies from the cars that he owns.
  23. Just as a little information, the water fall base that holds the hood ornament and hood ornament if you can find one will cost about $1200 for both in good condition.
  24. Ok, this is the gauge all installed See pic
  25. For many of you out there who own a Hupp Series A 1928, 1929 and 1930-1932 S and there may be other models that have a gauge on the drivers side of the engine block , just above the oil pan that tells you how much oil is in your engine. If the small shaft that is fastened to a cork that floats to show you the oil level rusts off or is missing you will not have a clue how much oil is in the engine. My friends as he calls it " My drive around car" was missing the shaft and piece that showed the oil level. Well me being afraid that the rod I put in the engine to check the oil would not work well. Here in pic , I will try to explain how to fix the oil gauge.The first pic shows no rod and no gauge. The 2nd pic shows the rod and cork float.The 3rd. pic is me cutting the cork in a circle The 4th. pic is engine pan off the car. 5th the oil gauge in place held with a clamp. 6th. pic engine pan painted and ready to go back on the engine. 7th. pic Pan back on the engine. I have reached my limit on how many pic i can post, will post pic of the gauge completely installed.