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About PMac

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  1. Thanks Trimacar, Appreciate your thoughts on this topic. The 1910 instruction handbook does seem to point to the plug switch. Maybe others have some ideas? Peter
  2. Would appreciate any feedback from 1909/early 1910 owners regarding the type of ignition switch fitted to the dash board of their car. My car (build number 1994) has a "General Plug Switch" made by the General Sales Co of Detroit (see first photo). This square shaped unit is made from bakelite, with brass internal contact blades and an etched brass cover. Its one moving part is a brass pin that slides from left to right. The center section of this pin is bare brass and the ends are insulated with bakelite. I initially thought this was incorrect for the car but on reading the Instruction Book for 1910, I am now not so sure. The instruction book advises the owner starting the car to "put the switch plug on center of the switch which later is located on the dash". This mimics the practical procedure for starting my car. In shutting down the engine the driver is instructed to "put the switch plug in the off or neutral position, which is done by shifting the plug to the extreme left". Again, this mimics the practical action required to shut my engine down. It would seem that early Model 20's used this switch plug while later cars used the Hupmobile script circular switch with key (see second photo). Thoughts from others? Cheers, Peter Preview attachment IMG_1810.JPG IMG_1810.JPG 3.1 MB
  3. Have purchased one of Jerry Deck's beautiful reproduction magneto switches for the Model 20. I don't have a reference for where this switch and/or the manufacturers plate should be located on the dash board. Hoping someone might be able to provide a reference photo. Thanks, Peter
  4. Rick, Drop me a line at kezandpete AT and we can discuss. As luck would have it, I now have acquired two of these units (remarkable... looked for over a year and couldn't find one in restorable condition). I am happy to sell one on for the same price I paid. cheers, Peter
  5. PMac

    Model 20 Fuel Leak

    Phil, yes the central tube does protrude up into the fuel tank by about an inch or so. This is a simple fuel reserve indicator. When the petcock is set (in my case) to the downward position, fuel is only drawn through the smaller raised tube, thereby giving the driver a warning when there is circa one gallon of fuel left in the tank (I don't have an owners manual, it may make reference to the precise volume of reserve fuel?). The petcock is then set to the middle position to draw fuel through the main pipe which is largely flush with the bottom of the tank. The tapered petcock valve pin has two offset holes drilled into it, one for each setting. The small washer on the spring side of the valve pin has two indents and these slot into the indents on the main body of the device. This gives you confirmation of the positioning of the valve relative to each setting (you can hear and feel it click into place). You can see this better in Trimacar's photos of the disassembled unit. The petcock (in my case) is rotated upwards to shut the fuel flow off completely, again with a click to confirm its location. Cheers, Peter
  6. PMac

    Model 20 Fuel Leak

    Here are some pictures of my petcock unit. Note the screen is much finer. Cheers. Peter
  7. PMac

    Model 20 Fuel Leak

    This is an identical unit to that which is fitted to my car. Peter
  8. PMac

    Model 20 Fuel Leak

    Thanks Both. Phil, I will likely pull the tank off over the weekend and will post some pictures of the fuel valve/strainer. Cheers, Peter
  9. My 1910 has what I understand to be the original brass petcock (combination petcock/brass gauze fuel strainer/reserve fuel level indicator) piece fitted below the fuel tank. The petcock has three settings, one for off, reserve level and fully on. While I have managed to seal the various threads on this unit, despite my best efforts to seat the tapered petcock barrel, it continues to weep fuel. Any suggestions for a fix welcome. Cheers, Peter
  10. Hi Ben, Have sent you a PM re the carbide generator. Regards, Peter
  11. PMac

    Model 20 Parts

    Hi all, Looking for the following 1909-11 Model 20 parts: Magneto switch (there appear to have been a few types fitted between the years of production?) Front apron for 1909-1910 (sits below the radiator) - any condition welcome Brass radiator cap Steering wheel spider Bosch DU4 points Cap for the engine oil filling/breather tubes Hubcaps - brass or alloy Owners instruction book Hoping someone may have these on their spare parts shelf in the garage. Cheers, Peter
  12. PMac

    Model 20 Differential

    Thanks George and David.
  13. One for the Model 20 team.... in filling the diff with oil, which of the two bungs represents the correct fill height? My diff pumpkin has two square bungs at the rear, one being slightly higher than the other. I am guessing it is the lower one but want to be sure. Thanks, Peter
  14. Thanks Karl and David, Appreciate your guidance on these topics. With regards to the tool kit, my only reference is Bill Cuthbert's "The Hupmobile Story" (Page 23). Bill details that the Model 20 came with a screwdriver, pliers, monkey wrench, 2 x wrenches (5/16 and 7/16), oil can, valve grinding tool, tire pump, tire repair kit and tool kit bag. Who knows, there may be a machine out there with it's original tool set? Thanks again, Peter
  15. Hi, Hoping the Model 20 team can help educate me re a couple of features of this machine. My questions: 1. Did early 1910 cars come equipped with a cover over the flywheel? 2. Did 1910 Hups carry a Selden Patent plate and if so, where were these displayed? 3. Does anyone have an original tool kit or parts of the tool kit they could share a picture of? 4. What type of gasket material are people using as a seal for the water inlet/outlet connections to the cylinder blocks? 5. What material is the steering wheel spider made of? Has anyone had any success welding this alloy? Thanks in advance for any info that can be shared, Peter