JWC Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 Ok I I'm going out of my mind We own 4 Reatta's and my low mileage 90 has a hard brake pedal BUT only when it's cold, if I let the motor run and build heat under the hood the brakes return to normal, I tried this a couple of times now. I have no brake lights on and took the test when the brakes were working (I don't remember the results now but nothing stood out as being wrong) I flushed the entire system and went thru about a gal. of brake fluid so I'm pretty sure all the old fluid is no longer, I took the accumulator off my 89 that has no brake problems and still get the hard pedal.Has any one ever had problems with the valves sticking within the Teves system? if not any clues where to turn next?I did buy a new accumulator from the dealer for one of my other Reatta's and may just give that a try again, BUT the dealer told me it's a good thing I'm getting it now because they are going to discontinue this part he just didn't say when.I forgot to say when the pedal is hard only the front left brake grabs and I can feel the ABS trying to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mongeonman Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 The system you are showing us is not the same you have on your reatta,this one has a booster and an accumulator,the reatta has no booster,it takes all its presser from the accumulator, ABS or no ABS the pump creates the pressue.Did you read the ALDL code,and i would check if the warning light is good.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 The Reatta system does have a boost system. The accumulator only stores the pressure for the booster.You may have enough water (moisture) in your brake fluid to be causing the problem. That is about the only thing that makes sense for it acting as it does. DOT 3 fluid can absorb about 1-2% moisture per year. If you have a 1990 that has its original fluid.... do the math. You need to flush the system and get new fluid in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mongeonman Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Your right,now i think i see the way it works,correct me if i am wrong,this booster is not vaccum actuated,thats is why i tought there were none. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 He did flush about a gallon through it. Have you done the brake test from reatta.net since the flush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Sorry, I need to read the post better........Depending on how you flushed the system is important. If you do not flush the boost side first, you will just contaminate the new fluid with old.I have written the procedure many times and I am sure it is in the archives, the brake section, maybe even on u tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWC Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 Barney I will try to re-flush the system doing the boost side 1st using the instructions I found that you have posted in the past, Thanks for your help I will keep you posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wally888 Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 If it were mine: I'd do the brake tests w/o starting engine. (cold under the hood) I'd disconnect and clean all electrical plugs/terminals to all components under the hood . If nothing changed/test results were O.K., I call Prior and talk to their specialists who knows Teves. Note: Several mysteries, most interesting one is you are able to engage Anti-lock with, supposedly no Pump/Accumulator pressure (hard pedal!) Don't think this is possible! The Valve Block has the Main Valve(if stuck open you'd have no assist to any wheel) other valves (spring loaded closed Servos) that are opened or allowed to remain closed (springs) by signal from wheel sensors through the Brake Module to Valve Block. Only one valve (Servo) serves both rears. Each front wheel has it's own Servo. If your report is correct, it seems two servos are mal-functioning=rear and right front. Of course the Brake module in the trunk could, I guess, be the culprit! Might disconnect and clean it's terminals. Probably have provided little help but would try Tests, clean terminals, ALDL codes, .....................but why no lights on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 How cold is it getting when this happens ? (e.g. below freezing ?) That LF only part bothers me, I am wondering about a sticking m/c piston that might not show up as a fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWC Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 Padgett, the hard pedal is when it's in the 30's or below I have not tried the brakes on the few warm days we have had so far, but like I said the pedal returns to normal after the car has run and built up heat under the hood, that's why I thought the valve block may of had water in it and was freezing, but regardless the left front always seems to grab and I think that is why I feel the ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWC Posted April 12, 2007 Author Share Posted April 12, 2007 Well I warmed up the car today it started with the normal "hard brake pedal" and after about 20 min's of running the pedal was ok so I went to change accumulator I pumped the pedal 30 times the to releave the pressure (pedal got hard again) and when I went to unscrew the old accumulator it squirted out around the seal. This has to have something to do with why my brakes are not working when cold, does any one have a clue? I still think has something to do with the valve body but at $456 for the valve block I don't want to guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wally888 Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 More than one owner, myself included, has reported pumping pedal till hard and still having pressure (squirt from accumulator when removing). My guess is air in the system, note I said guess. I don't remember if you got test results when warm and working? Or if any codes at ALDL? Sounds like a weak solenoid or trash in the system, at one or more valves. Cheap try to fix=flush, use Barney's method of draining resevoir and cleaning pressure sensor. See if any trash passes. Retest. I suspect, even with a bad accumulator, if air is present (gets compressed) you will have some brake assist, a mini accumulator. Too bad we were never able to get the GM Tool w/ the pressure gage. Wish everyone would check with old Buick dealers. Maybe we could pass it around to those in need! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Depending on the amount of force behind the "squirt", as wally said, it is probably air.If the nitrogen charge in the accumulator is completely gone, then even after pumping, the accumulator will be full of brake fluid, so when you unscrew it, all the fluid inside will run out.....it should not be under pressure but there could be some "grey" area of low pressure that pumping does not deplete.Had the accumulator been charged with 1500 psi (the low side) fluid would have squirted out to the street.If you decide to change the boost section........get a rebuilt unit from Priorwww.priorreman.com They rebuild, test, and warrant the entire unit and the price is around $700 exchange. By replacing the entire unit, you can feel confident that you have fixed the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWC Posted April 16, 2007 Author Share Posted April 16, 2007 Well I replaced the pressure switch and pump with a known good one from one of my other Reatta's with a good brake system and put the brand new accummulator on and I still have a hard pedal so I bought a complete Teves system off eBay and will now be replacing the complete system.The only thing that keeps going thru my mind is a bad valve body and at $456.34 plus shipping I will take my chance with a used system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadwarrior65 Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 If you get it figured out, please post it because my 89 does the exact same thing when its cold, its a wild ride if you have to get on the brakes fast and hard till it warms up, then its fine..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWC Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 I will keep you posted, I should be getting and replaceing the Teves system with in 2 weeksWhile your pedal is hard does it pull to the left when applying brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadwarrior65 Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 I'm not sure, but I think it pulls to the right, after using the brakes about three times in normal braking, it clears up..... Only does it when its cold.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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