Guest TheDude Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 This is for a 1953 2bbl Stromberg from a 322 V8. I have the air horn and throttle body cleaned and dried after soaking. The main body still needs to be done but the main metering jets are still in there. It looks like I need three special tools to remove the main metering jets, the main discharge jets, and jet plugs. The part numbers from the '53 manual are T-19099, T-24924, and T-24967. Where can I get these parts? Do the metering jets need to really need to come out? Can I soak the main body in carb. cleaner with the metering jets in there (everything else is disassembled from the main body)? Also, is it safe to soak the thermostat in carb. cleaner? It's metal so I would assume it's safe. What can I do about soaking the accelerator vacuum switch? How does the top rubber/plastic part detach from the metal part, do I just pull them apart (just making sure I don't break anything)?Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Justin, I think you and I have a lot in common carwise! Don't bother soaking the vacuum switch, just spray it with cleaner...You don't need to remove the jets to rebuild the carb, you can just clean them out. If you do need to remove the main metering jets, find a bolt that fits inside the jet boss, and grind a slot that the jet will fit into...you've made yourself a jet wrench. The only reason I know that is because I've had to jet mine up a few notches. Good luck...nice cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TheDude Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Thanks for the response. I went ahead and just soaked the body with the jets in. Its all back together now except for one of the rods (having trouble with how its secured but I'm making a thread about that). Nice cars. Working on the engine in a Mustang than trying to work on an engine in a 53 Buick is so much different. I need a crate to reach the distributor in the Buick! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TheDude Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I won't bother with starting a new thread so here's the question:How is the pump lever connector rod (the rod that works the butterfly valve) secured to the fast idle cam on a '53 2bbl Stromberg? I did not remove the rod from the cam when I soaked the throttle body but it came loose at some point. I have the rod and a steel washer. It attaches to the butterfly lever with a cotter pin but there is no hole at the cam end for a cotter pin. There is just a groove near the end. I tried slipping a cotter pin on after the washer but it did not hold well. Unfortunately, when I took reference pictures that end of the rod was always obscured by the throttle lever.One more thing. There are three holes in the throttle lever. When I removed the carburetor from the car the pump rod was secured to the lowest hole in the throttle lever. The manual says to connect it to the middle hole, which is what I did when I put it back together. What is the difference between the three holes? Was the throttle lever just made this way to fit different applications?Thanks for all the help so far. I'm very close to putting the carb. back on (hopefully tomorrow). It would not have gone this well without all of the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Typically, the accelerator pump had three "slots" or "holes" for the linkage to actuate it. The differences will be in the length of the accelerator pump "stoke" (remember, mechanical advantage for a given "input" changes with the placement of the pivot hole, which makes the amount of movement of the accelerator pump for a given amount of throttle openning vary with the slot or actuator hole position). As a general rule, the middle slot (adjustment) is the normal situation. Either of the other holes will result in a slightly shorter stroke and the other one will be a slightly longer stroke (i.e., "pump shot volume").You might also liken this to a "richer" (longer shot volume, longer stroke) or "leaner" (shorter shot volume, shorter stroke). Notice I mentioned "volume" rather than "duration". The stroke controls the volume of the shot, but the size of the discharge nozzle's holes on the accelerator pump discharge port (what Holley calls "shooter") determines how long the particular volume of fuel takes to "shoot".To start with, you're headed in the right direction with the "middle" adjustment on the accel pump linkage.Enjoy!NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Can we get some of these parts straightened out first? You said :"How is the pump lever connector rod (the rod that works the butterfly valve)"... I think you are referring to the linkage from the fast idle cam to the round disk at the top of the carb which would be the choke valve (or choke butterfly)? If so, the pictures in my 56 manual of the 2 bbl Stromberg would indicate that the rod goes through the fast idle cam first, then is attached to the tang on the end of the rod that goes through the carb body and to which the choke is attached. That groove you refer to is actually a built in "stop". That is there so the linkage cannot be pulled all the way through the fast idle cam. Since that stops the bottom from being pulled out, all you need is the cotter pin at the tang for the choke rod. Chances are you would put the washer on the linkage first, then insert it into the fast idle cam and twist it around to get it up to the choke rod tang. The manul for the 56 shows the bend in the linkage should face forward, that is towards the float area of the carb. This ought to place the cotter pin on the side of the choke butterfly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TheDude Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Sorry, I looked at the picture in the manual wrong and combined two different part names. I am just referring to the connector rod. I see how it goes in but I'm not sure how it is secured once it goes through the fast idle cam. Here's a picture just to make sure we have the same parts in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 That does look different than the pictures in my 56 Manual. Can you pull the rod out from the fast idle cam while it's in that position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I'm foggy about it right now, but does it have a little tang that holds it in place after the rod is placed in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TheDude Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 Yes, it comes out very easily. Putting the washer in there makes no difference. It just goes through the fast idle cam and the lever behind the cam. Here is a good picture. I'm missing something that goes on the end of the connector rod to secure it in place. When I noticed it fell off there was a washer with it, but that alone will not keep it secure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sixpack2639 Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 Justin, My '51 Special has a Stromberg carb too and it looks almost identical to yours. There is supposed to be a very small wire clip shaped similar to the Greek letter Omega that clips into the groove at the end of the shaft with the washer between it and the idle step cam. At least that is what mine has. You could also use a clip from more modern carbs that looks very similar to a micro sized bobby pin or an "E" clip would work too. Hope that helps. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 Oh yeah, the little clips can be found in almost any carb kit...if you have a carb kit sitting around from your Mustang, it may have a little wire clip that will work...thanks for the memory jog Carl! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 You can get them at most hardware stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 I concur, Adam. Many would be surprised to see what all they can find that match OEM nuts/bolts/clips (including body bolts and clips and such!) at places like Lowe's or some of the hardware stores that carry a full line of automotive-related items. Not to mention the GM Parts "Standard Parts Catalog" in the dealership's catalog database! There might be some "minimum quantity" issues, but many things in there in the OEM-spec finish are (or used to be) in that catalog. By observation, some of the older stuff has been replaced by more recent items, but it doesn't hurt to shop there too.Enjoy!NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TheDude Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 Thanks for all of the help. I don't see a clip like that in the rebuild kit but I'm sure I can find something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sixpack2639 Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Justin, PM me with your address and i'll send you a couple of those clips. I always have some on hand. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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