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Well,

I have only owned my '68 Riv. for a year and a half, and the car has about 80,000 miles, it is probably the most powerful car I have ever driven. Over its life, there may have been some engine mods, as this thing pings on everything except just over 1/3 mix of CAM 2 racing fuel and 2/3 93 octane. But it is a joy to drive. Others will likely have more comments, but for me it is fine, just expensive. What are you expected from your "project"?

John

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I also have the 430 engine for my 68 Riviera "restification" project. My intent is to create an 'old' Lexus level daily driver that gets 16 to 20, yes 20 mpg. I bought the TA Performance catalog for $5. Best investment anyone can make. As far as I know the only issue with the original 430 is oiling to the upper end of the motor. This is partly due to a too narrow oil pickup in the oil pan and poor fit and performance of the aluminum front cover which houses the oil pump/distributor and the water pump bolt to it. Anyway, TA Performance offers fixes for all of these issues and has components to go mild to wild on the 430. I am planning about a 450 horsepower buildup. They have cams, roller rockers, aluminum heads, heavy duty components, etc. The 430 has enough meat to be bored out and was factory rated at 360 horsepower. You can't go wrong with a carefully built 430 or 455.

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I guess I better get that catalog for some cold winter nights by the fire dreaming in CT. And I like that word - restification. From CT to Batavia, with some Interstate driving at 70 mph and some US 20 highway, south of the throughway (also some periods at 70 when I had to pass someone, or no traffic, the enigine as it sits, was getting about 16 mpg. So I considered that pretty good. When I drove to the Riviera National in Lancaster, PA, the year before, I did not have the courage to check the mileage.

I would like to hear more about both projects.

John

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John,

It is well underway. I hope to have it ready for Seattle 2007. Visually stock and mostly stock appearance in the engine bay. Internal efficiences include a reground camshaft for better performance and mileage, roller rockers ($700, ouch) and better oiling, spark, and timing controls. Closer tolerances in what is a balanced and blueprinted engine means 2 1/2W-25 weight oil instead of 5W-30. So it's basically a series of small improvements, no one big thing.

The TH400 transmission will be fitted with a numerically higher 1st and 2nd gear set (through TA Performance) so that I can run a numerically lower rear axle ratio. This means quick, firm, muscle car like launches with greatly reduced cruising rpm and the vehicle will spend less time in the higher open throttle - quicker up to speed means less cruising rpm = better fuel mileage.

You can do a lot without visually altering the 430. You could even put their aluminum heads on, aluminum Edelbrock intake paint everything Buick red and it would look pretty much stock. I am using TA's single plane aluminum intake manifold so I can't look stock because of that.

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All I would do right now is get it tore down to see what it needs. I have other projects going on that need finnishing before I get to involved with this Buick. I'm into the Olds (I have 4) mostley. I have knowen about this 430 for some time. But it never interested me until I came across this Skylark body. It's a very nice driver. Very solid body. So I'm hopeing I can get into this project at a low cost.

I don't know much about Buicks. But I knew I could get some info here and at V8Buick.com. It is a much friendlier crowd on the Buick sites than at other sites I won't mention. Thanks for the information.

Tom

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From reading other posts there are some issues with oiling but we had a '67 Wildcat in the family that was NOT driven nice and easy by my brother and I and it flat out flew. Surprised a number of "fast" Fords, Chevys, Pontiacs, Mopars... wink.gif (ticked 'em off getting dusted by a plain white four-door!!!) and never had a problem with the motor (or transmission) at all. Car was done in by a woman who slammed into the rear so hard the back bumper was on top of her Mazda (she went right under the 'Cat) --- but surprisingly was not hurt. You will not be disappointed with the smooth power if you get one.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">there may have been some engine mods, as this thing pings</div></div>

The Buick 430 starts out stock with 10.5:1 compression, so fuel is an issue whether it's been modified or not. As they get higher miles, carbon buildup will accentuate the problem, causing "hot spots" and even increasing the compression somewhat. De-carboning can usually be done without a teardown, it just takes some patience to do it yourself. There are products on the market, or you can even do the old "steam cleaning" method with water dripped into the air horn of a running engine at full operating temp. A solvent with some lubricating properties like Sea Foam is often recommended. This stuff is flammable, though, and requires careful use around a hot engine.

With well over 100,000 miles, the '69 Electra I drove years ago never had an oiling issue, but it did "ping" on acceleration. One absolutely required modification is to replace the stock nylon timing gear with a steel one if it hasn't already been done. Checking to make sure your 430 has the metal gear, or changing out the nylon one, would be a good time to check the oil pump too.

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Guy,

Thanks for the info. I just started adding Sea Foam to the gas and will not know how it does until next spring. The bit of driving I did this fall seems to be better, but this was only a rather short drive. Looks like I will try more in the tank before into the carb. I will likely try the water treatment first. Thanks again.

John

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Sounds like a plan. Do it over time, with a lot of driving especially over-the-road. Your enemy is short trips and/or a lot of running without reaching full operating temperature. That's where "babying" a car wreaks havoc with the internals. Many old cars that are still low-mileage suffer from the effects of too little use. Be sure to change the oil frequently if you do any heavy-duty internal engine "cleaning." Whatever doesn't get blown out the tailpipe will be suspended in the oil.

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If this is the same engine by buddy had in his 64 cat, it can take a real beating. He would twist the drive shaft off or blow a universal joint so bad we would have to go to the bone yard and get another. The car was junked because the starter died and he was too lazy to install another. My engine (which is the 300) has the high compression ratio, I believe its 11:1. It will not run anything but premium 97 octane. You may want to check your vaccum advance, and make sure its working. If she still pings you can also try a "cooler" plug and depending on your timing, advance it inside of specs by one or two. Just don't go tdc. I am sure my memory has failed me on some of this but it beats rebuilding the engine.

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