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Rebuilding shocks?


Guffin

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Yes, you should probably at least inspect the outer shaft and bushings. In fact, this would be a good time to inspect all of the suspension bushings and kingpins. You can get rebuild parts from either Kanters or Bob's Automobilia. Both have websites and will send you a catalog upon request.

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Another thing I came to think of is the caster. It is adjusted with the upper a-arm pin and bushing. How can the caster angle be measured? You can't see the kingpin. Are there reference marks somewhere to guide you.

Jan

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Guest stude8

There were tools (Fixtures) that attached to the front wheel spindles that indicated the king pin inclination caster angle. The vehicle had to be in a level condition determined with a "U tube manometer" fluid hose positioned at each spindle then car could be jacked or shimmed to be level port and starboard.

On straight front axle cars (early1930's) the angle was adjusted by insertion of an angular wedge between the main leak spring and the axle perch to "Rotate" the king pin fore or aft as needed to compensate for spring sag or axle warpage.

These wedges came in various size increments like 1/2 degree, 1 degree, 1-1/2 degree etc, if it took more than 4 or 5 degrees something was really out of whack and needed replacement.

Stude8

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If you replace the upper shaft and bushings, the replacement parts usually come with an eccentric shaft that allows you to set both caster and camber. The 1940 Buick shop manual shows how to adjust the caster and check camber using a precision bubble protractor. Any Motor's Manual from about 1947 on will show how to set both caster and camber. In the U.S., Starrett makes a good precision bubble protractor; they cost about $80 when I bought mine. They also come with a good center gage and a try-square. I used it to set the caster and camber on my '40 and it worked pretty well. The original alignment specifications allow you about plus or minus 1/2 degree from the stated angle. Camber is set by measuring the wheel inclination from the front hub outer face. It helps to have the wheel bearings tight when you make this measurement. There are a couple of flat spots on the rear of the spindle support that the caster readings are taken from. It is sort of a pain to crawl under the car and make the reading; you can't use a jack because it would change the angle. If you have access to more accurate equipment, I'd use it but the bubble protractor does work, they are not too expensive and you can do it yourself.

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I have googled the web and found one good article describing the theory behind the way caster is measured.

http://www.hunter.com/pub/undercar/2573T/

I now understand that caster is determined by measuring the change in camber when the wheel is turned right and left e g 10 degrees. I will see if I can find a bubble protractor here in Sweden.

As regards the shocks, most people seems to recommend Apple. They are a little more expensive than some other companies but quality is more important than price. They also have a "deluxe" shock with wider bushings and a harder damping. for $10 extra. May be worthwhile as the ride is very mushy to European taste (=roads).

Jan

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