'PURPLE ICE' - Coolant Additive. Pro or Con?

[TomE_1953]

'PURPLE ICE' Radiator, Coolant Additive.<BR>Link to photo/information.[/url<P>I just heard about this product from a guy who uses it in his Model-A and swears by it. I want to get the 'real' scoop from classic Buick owners who have used it or know of anyone else who has.<P>Kansas City temps have been averaging 99-100+ the past three weeks and my '53 Buick is pegging out on the temp gauge. You know 'she' is hot when the temp gauage needle is already showing a temp and you haven't even started the car. The hood design (bubble) of the '53 Buick doesn't help to disperse heat as many of you know. Sure wish they used those 4 portholes to suck out the hot air. or moved them up on both sides of the hood.<P>Here is what the PURPLE ICE ad says:<BR><B>Reduces surface tension of water to make it transfer heat more effectively. Purple Ice™ contains the exclusive ingredient Molybdate, which prevents corrosion and erosion of metals in the cooling system. Purple Ice™ is the ONLY coolant additive on the market that passes ASTM D-2570 Simulated Service Corrosion Tests in a straight water mixture. Extensive testing has confirmed Purple Ice™ to reduce coolant temperatures up to 10%. Purple Ice™ is most effective when added at a 1 ounce/ quart ratio.</B><P>So are you pro or con on this product?

[Ron Green]

From the whats it worth department. I had overheating problems with my 400 ci Pontiac GTO engine. I tryed different flowing water pumps, electric fan, various degree thermostats (need a stat!!!), timing & carb adjustments, custom made 5 core radiator, adding a overflow tank, radiator caps, etc. I also tryed a similiar product from redline called water wetter, that is added to straight water.<P>After all of the above I found what works for me the best was a 70/30 mix of antifreeze/water combination. The antifreeze seemed to take (absorb) and disperse the heat better once I got everything else working right. My engine just took slightly longer to overheat with the water wetter.<P>One of the things with a 50's car is the radiator cap pressue is 4 to 7 pounds depending on make, model, engine, etc. Many of the 60's cars use a 15 pound cap. The higher the cap pounds the higher the boiling point of the radiator, however the 50's cars are not designed for the 15 pound caps. It would not hurt to have your cap pressue checked. Of course every car, engine and make maybe a little different? Good luck!

[rocketraider]

Royal Purple makes a good synthetic oil. We use it in a lot of powerplant applications on stuff that runs 24/7/365 and we've noticed slightly cooler bearing running temps.<P>Molybdate is no big deal. We use that too in the plant's closed cooling water systems, for the exact reasons stated. It reduces pipe corrosion/erosion (actually it plates out on pipe inside walls) but whether it aids heat transfer I don't know. We used to use chromate which worked better, but was declared a hazardous waste by EPA.<P>I think I'd make sure everything was up to snuff on the cooling system before putting witches' brew in it. The cooling systems functioned back in the day, and it was just as hot then as now.

[Guest]

the mixture ratio of glycol/water is to reach the highest boiling point (the exact optimum is not exactly at 50/50), but 70/30 gives a lower boiling mixture.

[Guest]

If your 53 over heats you need to overhaul (clean out) your cooling system. That would include haveing the rad tanks removed and the core properly cleaned as well as removing all the core plugs (note core plugs not freeze plugs) and cleaning out all the block passages. You might even need chisels and scrapers to get all the junk out. Don't forget the hoses (replace them all) and replace your thermostat. In 108 degree weather pulling a 3000 pound trailer between 60 and 70 mph my 53 never over heated, in fact the temp guage never went above the temp of the thermostat. In 1963 I changed from a 180 to a 195 because GM were putting them in their new cars and I found a slight increase in mileage but the big rad kept the engine cool. Also after you are all done change your antifreze every second year.<BR>Happy hobbying

[NTX5467]

Some great comments!<P>Many times, we look for "band aid" fixes for things (high flow pumps, lower temp thermostats, etc.) related to engine operating temperatures, yet the first thing that should happen is to make sure everything's "to spec" in all aspects of what you have. The core plug remove-and-clean operation is a very good idea for any vintage vehicle. The "wetter water" additives were originally designed for dirt track racers, I believe, which needed all of the help they could get in the cooling system area. Getting more of the water in contact with the inner surfaces can be of benefit in the heat transfer considerations, but if it might change the laminar flow characteristics, it could also cause more turbulance around the cylinders, which is not a good thing.<P>Personally, I'd stay away from cooling system flush products as they might cause more problems than they would help. They can remove the scale that has kept the ready to happen perforations sealed up on the core plugs, radiator areas, heater core areas, and applicable piping. Even if it doesn't leak with water in the system, it could well leak with the antifreeze in it. <P>I concur with the orientation that if they didn't have that many problems when new, a completely stock, refurbished system should work just as well now. The only modifications I might suggest would be some incognito seals to make sure all of the air went through the radiator and not around it.<BR>The other issue might include transmission fluid temperatures if it has an automatic transmission. Also make sure the oil pan is not covered in gunk as the oil carries heat away just as the coolant does.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467