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Kepich exhaust company


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i had a tail pipe fitting problem om ONE side only. He DOES seem to stand behind his product. However the bend in the pipe (as well as the replacement pipe that was sent) was off by light years. Fortunatly, i was able to cut the pipe and graft another piece to it to make it work. Its still needs some more work tho. MY ADVICE is to just go head and buy a GOOD QUALITy hydraulic pipe bender with capacity up to 3 inches for about $600 to $800 and bend your own pipe. THATS what I WILL DO next.

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If you are desiring a pipe sizing other than what was stock, then you'll have to contact a vendor that does "aftermarket" exhaust things or get a reputable local shop to bend one up for you, matching the existing contours of what's under there or would have been under there with a dual system. Finding such a "reputable" shop that will do an OEM configuration pipe setup can be very tough and have many pitfalls, though.<P>From the way your post is worded, it sounds like you are wanting a bolt-on system as many of the GM and Chrysler muscle cars have available from them. I rather doubt there will be any available for your application.<P>As I recall, the pipe in front of the muffler is decently sized, but after the muffler it necks down somewhat. Therefore, it might be easier to find as much of the factory pipes from an OEM-type vendor (NAPA's line of Walker Exhaust parts, for example) and then put a higher performance (yet decently quiet) Walker DynoMax style muffler with larger outlet pipes and then get some rear pipes built locally. This will require some sniffing through the muffler specs in the back of the book, but should be a workable situation.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

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A Midas Muffler Shop in my neighborhood installed a complete system from the headpipe back for my 1955-76R for $211.00. It works fine, looks OK and is guaranteed for life. You can't beat that.

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I have heard that a cross over pipe is not necessary because of the heat-riser crossover in the heads. However, I am stubborn so I got one anyways. <BR> I have changed my exhaust system four times in search of the right sound. I am currently running 2.5 inch 50 series flowmasters and they sound great. However they do produce noticeable reverberation in the 1800-2200 rpm range. I have heard that Spintech mufflers don't reverberate nearly as much as conventional mufflers. They sound a lot like turbo mufflers.<BR> My only other recommendation would be to avoid getting a muffler that is more than 4.25 inches tall or you may end up scrapeing them. <P>Tomsriv<BR>71 Riviera

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has anybody used Kepich exhuast company? i saw their add in the BCA Bugle. i want to buy a 2 1/2 exhaust system for my 1973 riviera.<P>john

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There are two theories for having a crossover pipe in the first place (not counting the heat crossover passage in the intake manifold). One has to do with making the system quieter and the other has to do with "sharing" capacity between the two sides of the exhaust system.<P>Up until the 1970s, all Ford dual exhaust systems (from what I recall seeing) had a crossover pipe behind the transmission. Considering that Ford's standard pipe size for everything seemed to be 2" back then, the capacity sharing issue might have come into play as well as the quietness issue. Many of the Chrysler big block muscle cars also used crossover pipes whereas the normal dual exhaust cars didn't.<P>Then there is the Dr. Gas "X" crossover pipe that has been documented by the Pontiac guys to lower 1/4 mile ets by a tenth or two. Some NASCAR guys ran them too before they were discovered.<P>The Lincoln Motorsports website has some interesting information on how the X-crossover affects exhaust sound on the late model Marks when used individually or in tandem.<P>I think that if I was not concerned with complete factory originality, I'd have a dual system built with an appropriate crossover as I believe they can be beneficial for performance and quietness. Considering that many factory systems did not use them, it could be open for debate, but at the least it can be a tuning device to get the desired sound. Plus, they can always be added later.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467

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You might want to search the archives as there was a large discussion on them before. If I remember correctly a lot of it was bad.<P>I bought a crossover pipe from them and ran it for a year. I noticed that I had exhaust leaks at the heat riser that I could not stop. The engine also ran like crap. The following summer I removed the crossover and looked inside to notice that it only had a opening the size of a dime. The welds were sloppy to say the least. After about 3 hours and a assortment of grinders and extenisions I had it to the correct size, and the car now runs fine. Lucky a exhaust valve was not burned.

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thanks for the info. i am in western MA. i am going to the NE riviera club cookout on the 10th of august. i will ask there if anyone knows of someone in the area can do the job for me. <P>if anyone has any other suggestions, i would love to here them..also what was the stock size exhust for those 1973 rivieras.<P>john

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Try your local napa parts store they have exhust systems. you have to order it and they will have it the next day. and go and have put in at the repair shop that you use for your car smile.gif" border="0

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I ordered an exhaust system from Kepich for my 1973 Electra. I ended up having to cut the pipe in between the Y and muffler to make it fit. Finally, I had to bring it to Midas for them to weld where I cut. I would give them a C-. Shop around.

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Guest 53and61

My experience with Kepich was so long ago that it would be unfair to relate it here in detail, although it wasn't ideal. However, I can relate a couple of pointers that I discovered the hard, expensive way. <P>OEM staight-8 mufflers had an internal system of baffles and chambers to control the sound. Repros from two suppliers that advertise in the usual places were noisy. I x-rayed these and found nothing inside--no baffles, just the pipe with holes poked in it coaxial with the outer shell. X-ray of a second-source replacement muffler from a parts store showed the baffles and chambers just as they appear in the 1950 shop manual. This muffler is quiet and sounds right. <P>The '61 (full-size) shop manual specifies double-wall exhaust pipe to avoid a ringing sound. My Invicta has garden-variety single-wall pipe, and it does indeed have an annoying boing-boing sound. I just recently found a shop that can still get the correct double-wall pipe; wish I'd done it right in the first place.

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i am currently in palmer MA. i am still looking into that exhaust issue. i wnat a good system that looks OEM and is 2 1/2 inches in diameter. i have to find out what the OEM original exhaust was. i have to contact the chapter out here in western MA for some help. they may have some good suggestions.<P>john

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53 and 61, Could you share the name and address of the shop you found locally that has the correct double wall exhaust pipe for the Invicta ? I have a 61 Invicta Convertible and I would be interested. Also, I am in need of all 6 original hangers if you might have any leads for locating these.<BR>Thanks, Al

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Guest 53and61

The shop is Hutter Automotive, 1535 Chester, Aurora, CO, 80010. The guy I talked with is Don. I'm supposed to call him later this week to see if he got the double-wall pipe. I'll keep you posted. BTW, this is allegedly raw pipe, not bent and flanged and ready to install.<P>I was unable to find the correct hangers, and the exhaust shop that installed the system jury-rigged these from commonly available stock. Finally did find the bizarre 4-pipe dual muffler, though.

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53 and 61, Thanks for the address. I did my exhaust system using universal hangers which I bent and modified to fit but they are not working out too well. The hangers move slightly then the pipes hit the frame and cause vibration. Have to keep adjusting.<BR>Thanks, Al

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riv73,<BR> The stock outlet on the exhaust manifolds is 2.25 inch. The muffler shop will probably install a 2.25 inch stub on the manifold and then slip the 2.5 inch system over it. Because the pipe diamater is reduced at the bends a 2.5 inch system will allow the exhaust system to be less restricted then a 2.25 inch system with the same bends. <BR>When you take the car in you may want to mention that ground clearance is a concern so the mechanic will remember to take that into account (you can't be to careful).<BR> My system came out great. I have aluminized pipes which I believe are steel inside, so in effect they are double wall.<P>I am thinking of experimenting with blocking off my crossover in order to tweak the sound. Crossovers flatten the tone, and I prefer a thumpy idle. cool.gif" border="0<P>I went with angle cut tips out the back, you can kind of see them in one of my pictues...<P> <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/tomsriv2001/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/tomsriv2001/</A><p>[ 07-29-2002: Message edited by: Tomsriv ]

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i want to do the installation myself. i do not like for anyone other than those i trust tohave the keys to my car(bad experience witha guy who blew the tranny in my 1972 skylark witha 455-he was testing it out).<P>can you tell me of any company that can sell me a system that is 21/2 inches that i can sntall and look OEM? can NAPA sell this systme to me? i would like low restiction mufflers and such. i would love mandrel bent but that is looking to be difficult or impossible to find.<P>john<P>p.s. tomsriv..cna you check out my other post concerning my riv and it's GS status.

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