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'29 Timing Chain


Guest Speedster

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Guest imported_Speedster

I need a '29 Timing chain. Anyone know where I can get a good one for less than $100. ? I'm just not going to pay Kanter's outragious price of $225. for a chain, unless it's made of Gold. Then I would still need another, cause Gold is too soft to put in an engine. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

The one in the '29 engine, I just got, is streched a little too much. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> (no adjustment left on generator and it's still loose)

I think '27 thru '36 used the same chain.

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Try Egge, they probably sell the same chain cheaper. One of the big chain companies makes these, and if you can get them to sell you one, or if your local parts dealer sells enough chains to get them direct, they are about a third the price. I bought several direct for V12s a couple years ago. I think I had to buy 5 or more though. I might have an NOS one, but I am out of the country until late next week, and I don't remember which chain company it is that makes the chains, I will have to look when I get home. Maybe it is Morse. When you buy them from a vintage supplier they always rebox them in plain white boxes. I understand that resellers need to make a profit, but it does irritate me too when they more than double the price, maybe Kanter isn't here, I can't say. Cad 16 chains are over 300 and the only reason is that they fit a 16. Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com

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Guest imported_PackardV8

Find a local bearing/seal.shaft/chain type shop. Thery are usualy found in industrial areas of town. They usualy have a $20 minimum charge but that should not be a problem. They ought to be able to make the chain from roll stock WITH PRESSED fit connection link where they join it. I am not familiar with the 29 chain. Is it a roller chain???? Is it external and easily changed????? If its a roller chain u mite try a motorcycle shop. Does it have a master link???? if u do not plan to use the engine at extreme service a chain with a master link (slip fit) should be ok. I'm guessing 30-60 bucks. Post a pic?????

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Guest imported_Speedster

The Timing-chain for '29 is installed and made simular to later models, in that it is behind the balancer and a front cover. The main differance is that it is longer and wider (about 2" wide) and it drives the generator as well as the cam. The generator mounts on a side extension of crankcase, on lower right side of engine and acts as tension adjustment for chain. Does not have a master link.

Sorry, I don't have picture of a chain. The chains I have are inside engines.

It is a large chain with many parts. That's why I don't mind paying 3 times what a late model chain cost, but 10 times as much, is too much.

I can send a picture of my '29 tho, <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> See Attachment:

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Rick L.

My father bought and replaced the chain about 10 years ago on my car before he left the car to me. I still have it at home which I think is the original chain my father took out and put it in the box that the new one came in. I will check tonight and see if there is any info on the box of where he bought the chain and post back.

I can take a picture of the original chain and post it if you like me too?

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Rick L.

My father bought the Chain from Classic Cars Inc. The catalog is from 1992 and has a price of $145 but next to it in marker my father wrote $185. I am not positive when he purchase it but I think it was around 1994.

I have attach a picture of the chain which I think is original. The piece of paper that is under the chain is 8.5x11.

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Guest imported_Speedster

Well, so far, I have Not found a new chain for less than $182.

Guess I'll just have to keep looking. Maybe I'll find one laying beside the road, You never Know. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Tom,

Thanks for the Pictures. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

The only Website I could find with just the name 'Classic Cars Inc.' only sells cars, Not parts. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

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Rick L.

I am hear at work now but will get more info off the Catalog for you tonight. But if my memory serves me right I think they are located in New Jersey and last name of individual on catalog is Turnquist (Spelling).

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Guest imported_Speedster

I have been reading more Info about the timing-chain and found 2 makes of chains were made for '29. One with removable master link and one without.

Also found out that the chain should be a little loose with at least 1/2" movement between cam and generator sprockets, but no more than 1".

1" seems like a lot to me, but that's what the service manual says. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

So if that's true then the chain I have meets specs and will not need replacing. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I have been dreading the removal of that crank-handle type bolt that holds on dampner (balancer) anyway. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

With it set to 1/2" movement I still have a little adjustment remaining at generator sprocket. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

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Guest imported_Speedster

No, Henry Yenska's (610-759-0230) is a good place to get Used parts that you can't find anywhere else (not many new parts) and not part of Hibernia. I had called him, but he only has Used chains that are probably stretched more than mine.

Also, Gary Brinton (541-548-3483) is a good place for Used parts.

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Looks like we've found the going rate for '29 Packard timing chains... It stinks, but supply vs. demand is an unforgiving master. I understand your surprise at the cost, but in the grand scheme of Classic Packard ownership, it can't be that big of a hurdle to clear, is it? I'm quite sure I've dropped $185 on something overpriced for my Buick, and I've already forgotten about it. Isn't the peace of mind of a quality piece worth something instead of trying to cobble the thing together on the cheap?

Sure, $185 <span style="font-style: italic">seems</span> like a lot of money relative to modern timing chains (FYI, the timing <span style="font-style: italic">belt</span> on my wife's Audi cost more than a grand to replace, and $200 or so was just for the rubber belt!), but what you think it should cost and what it does cost are two completely unrelated things. I truly could not imagine how the timing belt on the Audi could be so expensive, yet I had no alternative, and I wanted to drive the car. So that's what it cost and that's what I paid. At least I know it's done and we won't have to worrry about it again for years.

Peace of mind remains long after the sting of the price is gone.

Just some thoughts.

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Guest imported_Speedster

Yes, Matt, you are correct, but first I have to get the dang dampner center bolt loose. I have an original '29 crank-handle but can't get enough torque with that and I don't want to mess it up by banging on it or modifying it. Guess I'll have to modify a wrench-socket, by grinding in 2 slots. Maybe that will work?

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Hi Rick, I hope I didn't sound like a jerk in my last reply--I re-read it and it sounded a little snotty. It was not intentional at all. I was just commiserating about the sometimes shocking price of stupid things. But I don't worry about that timing belt breaking any more, even at 7000 RPM! Compared to repair costs of having the belt break in service, I was happy to pay.

I have a lot of "modified" tools at my disposal. If you are going to modify a socket by cutting a slot, if there's enough room use a heavy, thick-wall impact-type socket which will keep its shape a little better than a thin wall socket. I'm not very familiar with the crank handle and bolt we're talking about, though, so I don't know how helpful this is. But if it's anything like the crank on my father's '25 Buick, then a thick socket on a breaker bar will do the trick (we used this technique to turn the motor over to time it manually).

Anyway, good luck and I hope I've been helpful.

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Guest imported_Speedster

The crank bolt has a smooth round head with a pin thru it. Pin is about 5/16" diameter. I found an old set of airwrench sockets and found that the 7/8" size fit the best. Now I need to grind some slots about 3/8" deep and see how it works.

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Guest imported_Speedster

Yep, That Worked. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I had to grind a slight hook in the slots, so it would stay on pin.

(The way the original crank-handle is made but made for turning in opposite, CCW direction)

'Having the right Tools always makes the difference'. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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