Guest Kimber Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 Help...have just researched the site for 1 1/2 hours... don't really see my problem. 1990 Reatta Coupe w 95,000 miles (currently driving 100 mls/day) Arrived home last night, put car in Park, and noticed <span style="font-weight: bold">BOTH</span> brake warning lights were on. Didn't think much about it til this a.m. when I turned the engine on and the lights would not go out. I must mention that I have recently been experiencing intermittent failure of the IPC (flashes off then on, gives 00 error -- about once or twice per week in the morning when it is cooler). Restarted the car a few times and tried disconnecting the battery to reset the computer -- neither caused the lights to go out.Looked at the Brake tests on reatta.net. Didn't think any pertained because they say to try it after the lights go off. Did try Test 5 -- turn ignition on, hood up, door open, and all I heard under the hood was a click and NO PUMP. Brake fluid level in the reservoir is above FULL, and the brake pedal is very hard. Have little or no braking capacity. Have had no prior problems with the brakes (and I would have noticed something in all the traffic I have to sit in each day). I had driven 50 miles in above 90 degree temps before I got home and noticed the lights on yesterday evening.Is it possible that it is a bad Pressure Sensor that is not even turning the pump on? Also, I would like to read the ALDL codes, but have no idea by what is meant by running a ground/jump between the A & H. Could someone explain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 Kim,Your pump and motor are not running and this is why your level is high in the reservoir and you have a hard pedal. It could be a couple of different things. The fuse(s) could be blown or a relay could be bad. All of the relays in the cars are the same so you could temporarily use,say,one of your headlight relay to plug into one of the brake relay sockets on the firewall. From my experience the most common part to go wrong is the pressure switch mounted just above the pump. One clue to it being bad is if you disconnect the connector on the pressure switch look inside and if it looks like there is some brake fluid in there it is definitely bad. It should be completely dry in there.I may have a good pressure switch, I will have to check, and I also have all the relays. Your IPC going black and reading 0 and 00 is something separate, most often a bad IPC. I also have good ones of these available. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wally888 Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 Ditto Jim's answer! Replace both relays (one at a time, Pump 1st.) After a relay replacement turn ignition on, see if pump runs-lights go out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawja Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 I know this will not be of particular interest right now, but your brake system was overfilled. The fluid level is meant to be checked AFTER depressurization of the brake system (at least 25 full brake pedal pumps with the car completely turned off).Not following the above proceedure before checking/filling the system is leaving you liable for a big mess (brake fluid eats paint) and possible engine fire if the fluid ends up on the exhaust manifold.(speaking from experience here) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kimber Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 Thanks for the feedback...I switched the two relays and then turned the car on and both the lights are still on. I'm not sure if that was a valid test of the relays, but just wanted to add the info. <span style="font-weight: bold">WHERE ARE THE FUSES</span>? The manual mentions that the 5A fuses are "under the dashboard" -- are there fuses somewhere that I don't know about? I only know about the ones on the sides of the center console, and the only 5 amp fuse there is for the fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wally888 Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 One poster just ran 12 volts directly to pump to check pump! Fuse? Maybe someone know of location, I don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kimber Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 they're "in-line" fuses, whatever that means. Think it may be near the two relays attached to the firewall. Must wait til morning to check that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kimber Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 I figured out how to work the ALDL and the only code it produced was 47 (2 rear sensors). Not sure if it was current or history, but since both brake warning lights were on before going into diagnostics, I'm guessing it was a current code. Older posts suggest that the problem may still be a relay. Will investigate and let you all know (would also appreciate any feedback). P.S. Wally888: I sent a private message to you. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 There is another check that you can do. Remove the plug on the sensor. "Jump" the plug with a wire while the key is on. If the motor starts to run, then it is the senor. Do not leave to pump on very long. Without the sensor input, the motor will not turn off. I had to get a new sensor for my Reatta about three years ago. I had the same problem as you have now. New sensors could still be had at that time. I'm assuming they can still be bought new. I think the part number is located on Reatta.Net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wally888 Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 If the 2 rear sensors are not working, only problem, only the yellow light would be on, the pump would run, red light would go out. 1. Remove elec. connections to Pressure Sensor and Pump, clean and wiggle (the connections!) replace, try. 2. Could be a bad relay-need to replace both w/ others on car (think almost all on car are the same, borrow two from console or relay center under hood (Dr. side behind Air Filter). (You can leave old ones on firewall, just disconnect connections, let new ones hand in air) If still "no pump running" could be bad Press. Sensor or bad Pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_KB905864 Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Here's a good example of a leaking pressure switch.... Pressure switch Question is...Since the electrical connection to the pressure switch is saturated with brake fluid, does the electrical connecter need to be replaced as well?, or can it simply dry out and plug back in to the new pressure switch? Seems like the leaking brake fluid would leave a residual film in the electrical connecter and the life of the connection would be greatly reduced. Did that make sense?...lol!On a serious note, it looks like Hurricane Frances is bearing down on Florida! Hope you all stay safe!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Am watching it. Problem is that Charley took down a lot of trees, limbs, and foilage so piles tens of feet long line the roadways that the state has been unable to pick up. As the leaves dry up and detatch from the limbs every time it rains (this is the monsoon season) they wash away and clog the storm drains. A 10-20" weekend (common with hurricanes) is liable to flood the roads badly.Good news is the aquafir is up so maybe the county will relax watering restrictions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kimber Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Thanks all. Great pix of the leaking pressure sensor. Seems like the general consensus is now the Pressure Sensor (which I'm guessing is the same thing as the Pressure Switch term that is sometimes used interchangeably). Although mine is dry, and looks OK, the pump did run when the the 12 volts was applied. Won't be able to try a new Pressure Sensor til tomorrow. Will post the (hopefully successful) results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Before replacing parts (unless you just happen to have one) check for continuity between pin A (Gry/Rd wire on connector) and pin D (Blk wire) on the switch. If there, the switch is telling the relay to turn on.There is a complete schematic and trobleshooting chart for "pump does not run" on page 5E1-80 & 81 of the 89 service manual (available for dounload at http://www.reatta.net/docs ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kimber Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 The new Pressure Sensor did the trick! Padgett, I did go through the troubleshooting pages in the FSM, but when I got to Chart D, I quit, because I'm not well versed in all the electrical connections in the car, so all the ohm readings you're supposed to take looked too complicated to me. If the lights come back on, I'll give it another look.THANKS TO ALL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 That circuit is pretty simple. Everything can be checked with a lightbulb and a battery, you either have voltage, lotsa ohms, or not many ohms. Wonder if anyone has ever put together a "Big Dummy's" guide to GM troubleshooting.Just helped a friend out who just does not like computers. Had a bad O2 sensor. Did not set a code, just rong. Easy with a scan tool, impossible without. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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