rusty radiator

[WillBilly53]

hello all,<BR>anybody have suggestions for a rusty radiator? i pulled mine from my car and some serious rusty (i'm talking opague orange) water poured out the bottom hose. i don't have any leaks, but is there something i can pour in it to flush it out and repair it? i saw this product on a website but was unsure of it's credibility: Loctite Fast Flush?<P>i was hoping there'd be some kind of kit like the fuel tank repair kit from kanter but i have yet to find one.<P>thanks fellow buick nuts!<P>will

[Guest Teamsterdug]

If your serious about getting this car done right I would suggest pulling the radiator out and taking it to just about any reputable local radiator shop to have it boiled out thoroughly. If it has been sitting long enough to have that much funky stuff sitting at the bottom it may well have integrity problems once it is all flushed out. They will be able to pressure test it and make any repairs at that time. Then, while its out it will be a great time to go ahead and paint it up (satin black)along with whatever else you can reach that should be repainted up there around the grille area and front of the engine. Luck!

[WillBilly53]

thanks teamsternip,<BR>i do want to do it up right. do you have a rough estimate of what it might cost? just a ball park figure<P>thanks!<P>-will

[Guest Teamsterdug]

It's been years since I have had it done so I really couldn't tell you how much it would cost but it is money well spent. By taking it out yourself there really isn't any labor costs. Just the cost of the actual service. I'm sure if you call a reputable dealer they can give you a ball park figure over the phone. It's not that uncommon of a practice. LUCK!<BR>ps: Not really that many bolts holding it in either so it isn't really hard to get out.

[Dave@Moon]

I had to completely recore my radiatior in my 1960 last August. The core was an extra thick unit that had to specially ordered. The shop was extremely appologetic for charging me about $270. You shouldn't need a new core, and it most likely won't be that much for you. <P>If you have a lot of rust in your radiator, be advised that it didn't come from the radiator. The radiatior isn't made of iron, the engine is. Be sure to completely backflush and inspect your entire cooling system before installing the newly cleaned radiator.<P>Good luck! <p>[ 03-16-2002: Message edited by: Dave@Moon ]

[Guest]

The radiator for my 60 was a little over $300. I took it to a shop and they said alot of the tubes were blocked, so I went with the recore. As said, backflush the entire system.

[Guest]

After you remove the radiator take the thermostat out, put a garden hose in the water neck and turn it on. That way you will flush everything out the bottom radiator hose.

[Guest]

The only thing that makes rust is oxygen+iron = rust , therefore somehow air is getting into your cooling syxtem. Ergo, find a way to get the air out of the cooling system and then keep it out. A proper pressure cap and overflow bottle should do it.For more on this subject go to, <A HREF="http://www.stewartcomponents.com/techtip1.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.stewartcomponents.com/techtip1.htm</A> This fellow knows more about it than I so read it very carefully and try to follow his instructions. Trying to help, M.L. Anderson

[rocketraider]

I agree with having a radiator shop do it. Prior to that you can use a radiator flush chemical, Prestone and SolderSeal Gunk come to mind, that will clean the crap out of the block and heater core.<P>Is it just this town, or do others run into shops who don't want to touch old stuff? Took the 64 Olds radiator in to repair a seam leak and the guy says, I'm not responsible if it leaks worse or the core comes apart, and I can't get a replacement. This from supposedly the best shop in town?! Man, I brought the thing to you to be repaired!<P>But since his dad died, this guy has gotten notorious for wanting to sell a new one instead of repairing stuff.<P>Also be aware that in those days GM was prone to overkill on holding stuff in. The aforementioned Olds has a bolt tab at the bottom of the fan shroud that necessitated dropping the sway bar to get at it. When it went back together, the bolt hole is now slotted to allow pulling the shroud up and off without pulling half the car apart.<P>

[our51super]

A local shop near us charges $45 to boil a radiator. With our car, the core was bas so we agreed on a new core for about $300. I think that's the best way to go in the long run. I mean, you're not going to re-core your radiator every season. It may last you the life of your car with the way we baby and take care of them now.

[BuickNut]

The older radiators (B.P. - Before Plastic ! ) either had problems from :<BR>1) the cooling tubes becoming blocked<BR>2) the cooling fins becoming damaged and tearing from the tubes<BR>3) the tubes becoming damaged<BR>4) either the tubes or fins becoming corroded and causing leaks<BR>5) the solder at any of the tubes into the lower or upper tanks corroding away causing leaks<P>If its been sitting a long time - you really might want to consider getting it recored for piece of mind no matter what the pressure testing shows - I've seen too many cars flowing coolant on a hot day when things just went kaflooie ! Most of the radiator parts are either copper, aluminum and not steel (if memory serves me....) - and those materials corrode for many reasons. One is that over time - the coolant becomes slightly acidic and will cause the corrosion between it, the small iron rust from the engine internal passageways - no matter how many rust inhibitors are in the anti-freeze. Unfortunately - dummy me - I didn't drain one of the radiators before I stored one of my cars JUST AFTER HAVING THE RADIATOR RECORED !!!! When I pulled it out after TOO MANY YEARS (!!!), I found it to be marginal and re-recored it. So knowing better doesn't always mean much unless you practice it !!!!