Prices for compressor AND condenser?

[Guest Geoff Meador]

Hello everyone. To make a long story short, I sold my Reatta several months ago due to a sudden flurry of job changes and computer crashes ... life happens, and I apologize to anyone "left hanging" by my sudden departure from the hobby (they know who they are).

I've gotten things back in order, and am in fact eyeing the 1988 Reatta that used to be mine for repurchase ... but its A/C system needs both a compressor and a condenser. Can't be without them in Texas.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Local dealer has given me the total installed price for both units (remanufactured) as $1165 + tax. Need opinions from anyone with experience in such things.</span> If that's the "buy-in" price, I might not be back as soon as I had hoped (car is flawless otherwise). Thanks in advance.

[Jim]

Geoff,

I have the parts and sent you an email. Stay away from the dealer and go to a local A/C repair shop.

Jim

[Shelby]

Reman Compressor are not very reliable. They are noisy and last about a year. Used is a waste of time.

Put in a NEW Delco / Delphi is you are going to keep the car. With accumulator and orfice tube. Convert to R-134.

Don't know about condenser.

[Guest Geoff Meador]

Thanks so far ... local shop says "accumulator and orifice need to be replaced at the same time as the condenser and compressor." True? Not necessary?

[harry yarnell]

Accumulator HAS to be replaced when converting to 134. If sticking with 12, it depends how the compressor went bad; if it upchucked its teflon rings, or disintegrated internally, yes, replace the accumulator. And orifice tube.

Stay away from remans. I bought the last Delco compressor (new) for $365 shipped, not installed.

What's wrong with the condenser; it's usually the evaporator that leaks.

[padgett]

Accumulator (dryer) *must* be replaced with new compressor (and I would only use a new Delphi H6) or they will not honor the warrenty. Any time the system is empty, it *should* be replaced. The oriface tube should be checked any time the accumulator is repaced and I believe a GM system converted to R-134A (which I would do if replacing the compressor) takes a different tube (.008" ?).

Am sure there must be local shops in Texas who know what they are doing. Suspect my local shop would charge less than a large.

I just had to replace a condensor (in front of radiator) on the TranSport. It does happen but is usually lots ea$ier to get to than the evaporator.

[Guest Geoff Meador]

Thanks again for everyone's help so far. So, about CONVERSION ...

Replacing the compressor anyway, and, it seems, the evaporator, condenser, and oriface, is there anything else involved with converting?

I've never considered the R-134 conversion in the past due to cost, but would it be about the same price (or cheaper, even?) to convert rather than replace R-12 parts?

If I convert at this point, is it simply a matter of replacing current model compressor, condenser, evaporator and oriface with comparable R-134 part nos?

[Guest spongebob]

the cost of an accumalator and orifice/filter are minamal..stick with r12,

the price is coming down and is much more effecient..my cost for r12 is $25 per lb...you only need something like 3 lbs..the extra cost is well worth it...at least to me.

[Shelby]

The jury is still out if the NEW Delphi Compressor are R-12 Compatable. They say for R-134a only.

Put in the R-134 Save the envirnment and when you need it services again life will be good.

[padgett]

Is unlikely that you need compressor, condensor, and evaporator all at the same time. You will need a new accumulator/dryer. I now have three R-12 cars converted to R-134A and all need to be turned down from max after a while.

You do need someone who understands what they are doing since there are some differences between R-12 and R-134A for instance you need less 134 than 12. Put the same amount in and (a) it won't cool properly and ( pressures will go sky high. Also I understand that a different oriface tube is used than for R-12.

As far as components, AZAC seems to really like parallel tube condensors, has anyone ever tried ?

[Guest Geoff Meador]

Got the report from the dealer that diagnosed the problem yesterday evening. The system had zero freon when they got it, so they put a pound in and started looking for leaks.

Found resulting "oily spots" (?) on both the condenser and compressor, and said they both needed to be replaced. For warranty purposes I'd need to replace the accumulator also.

They emptied out the system again (since the one pound would've leaked out eventually anyway) so there is no pressure in the system. If I just get a "good" condenser and compressor (thanks as always, Jim Finn), how much of a job is replacing those for someone competent with a nut driver and a wrench?

[padgett]

Well a lift helps for the compressor since it comes out the bottom and be sure to label the wiring but is basically like removing any other accessory.

Then again, removing the condenser means removing the radiator first, I would do that before tackling the compressor, might be able to do from top then and I seem to remember at least one hidden compressor bolt that would be visible with rad/cond out. Going to need all new O-rings and seals, I would never reuse those.

Suspect the system should be flushed before putting the new accumulator/dryer and oriface tube in, must get all the R-12 oil out before switching to R-134A & would not want to contaminate the new components.

Suspect you are going to have a shop do the flush/evacuation/leak test/charge so might ask them what they want installed or not.

[Shelby]

It is pretty easy to replace the compressor with the Radiator out and to do the R&R on the condenser.

If you need to take the raditor out check the plastic tanks for cracks.

[Guest imported_wmptom]

Don't know if this helps you, but I had my leaking 89 fixed and converted at the local Buick dealer. He owns two Reattas . Bill reads as follows:

1. A/C compressor

2. 1 orifice

3. 1 accumulator

4. 1 retrofit kit

5. 1 can A.C. Flush

6. 2.37 IBS R134 Freon

7. 1/4 R134 Dye

Convert to 134 total bill $887.93

I've had most of the summer, and the results are great.

[Reatta Man]

Geoff,

Agree totally with the posts recommending you do a quality job. However, quality is not only found at the local Buick dealer.

First, stay away from the chains--Pepboys, Goodyear, Firestone, etc. You will go in there for an air conditioner repair and they will try to sell you a ton of other stuff you may or may not need. Some call it profit; I call it greed.

If you want to have it done, go with a local shop that gives you a firm complete estimate. Look for the ASAE sign, and other signs, such as "We use AC Delco parts." Another good way to go is the NAPA shops. I was skeptical at first, but the ones around here in San Antonio are all independent shops that are affiliated with NAPA. Good people, know what they are doing. Remember, a good independent shop will charge a fair price, make a decent profit and stand behind their work.

A name brand new compressor is about $250-260 through an independent source. If you can't find one in Wichita Falls, go to http://www.caawparts.com. That is Carlisle Auto Air here in San Antonio. Right now they are doing free shipping, and they have all the parts you will need. Condensor is about $125. Whether you use R-12 or R-134a, also do the accumulator, about $50.

If the hoses are old, have the rubber replaced. Several shops have the machine to replace the rubber section of the hose and reuse the aluminum connectors. Do NOT reuse R-12 hoses on a R-134a car; you will soon be wondering where your R-134 went. Look for a date code on the hoses. If they are the original, get the rubber replaced.

A shop that does conversions can do a quality job in a day. Whatever you do, do NOT under any circumstances use or let anyone else use one of those $39 quickie kits they sell at the mass market parts stores. The Reatta is waaaaaay too complicated to do with a one-size-fits-all kit.

I think that you can get it done properly at an independent shop for about $650-750. Best of all, you will not be back in 90 days needing another repair.

If you do it yourself, the only thing I would add is that you MUST buy a set of large metric wrenches to replace the lines. The fittings are aluminum, and if you even walk up to the car holding a Cresent wrench, they wills strip out on you (just kidding, not quite that bad).

The comments about R-12 are correct; however, don't just put it in the system. You must, and I mean, must put a vacuum on the system for at least 10-15 minutes. I like to put a vacuum on the system for 30 minutes, turn the pump off, then go have lunch. When I come back in an hour, if the system is holding a vacuum, it will almost certainly hold the new freon with no leaks.

If you don't have access to R-12, check around. You can replace all the parts, and then have a shop vacuum the system and recharge it. Some shops are buying it at the lower price, but still marking it up to $50-60 per pound at the retail level. There are still shops around that have the stuff, plus the right recycling machine to use the older freon.

One other thing--if you can buy the car, but wait on the A/C repair until the middle of the winter, it will cost a little less. If you can't wait, just bite the bullet and do it.

Joe (currently going through the 12-step recovery program for former Reatta owners)