fatboy Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 well i wanna know is there anything i can do to make this little 165 hp car get more hp. i mean im use to driving a taurus sho which has 220 hp and 215 tq stock. so is there anything i can like air intake ( what kind ) , plugs, wires, ect.... let me know. thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Flash Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> well i wanna know is there anything i can do to make this little 165 hp car get more hp. i mean im use to driving a taurus sho which has 220 hp and 215 tq stock. so is there anything i can like air intake ( what kind ) , plugs, wires, ect.... let me know. thanx </div></div>Well you could replicate GM Ross's engine bay....see attachment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBS0 Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 OK this is what you do...Install a Centre Force Clutch.Bore out the MAF by 7 to 12 mm, you will know when the wall gets thin.Install a Stainless steel Y pipe.Install a K&N 9" cone filter and CAI.New plugs and wires.and you will have close to 300hp.Hold it stop, forget it...I just described what I did to my 89 SHO (the lightest and fastest stock SHO)Reatta, you can't get there from here. Ask Greg Ross He has a supercharges series 1 3800 and it runs really fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinker Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Where's that Kenny Bernstein image of his Reatta doin' a burnout??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBS0 Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 here it is Fast enough? What was your budget? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 There isn't much, if anything, that is directly bolt on for our cars. That said, there are things you can do to help the performance, but you are pretty much on your own to adapt or design. Search the archives and you should find several suggestions. The least expensive, aside from some sweat labor, is to open up the restricted rear exhaust manifold outlet. Lose the catylitic converter if you can, leave it alone or get a free flow cat, if you must have it. Fabricate a cold air intake with cone filter, there have been several suggestions on this subject. Lower the coolant temperature by installing a lower temperature thermostat, to get the maximum benefit from this, you need to get the coolant fan program changed in the chip or it will heat up to the stock level in stop and go driving. A larger throttle body helps and the stocker can be bored out about 5 mm or so. Not sure if the later model larger T/B will bolt in place of the original. A premium fuel chip is of some benefit at max. throttle, but is limited help in day to day driving. My best estimate is 182-185hp. with no cat.(stock otherwise), exhaust manifold modification and a good cold air intake. With a larger throttle body, 160 deg. thermostat, ported heads, 7% more compression ratio, and high timing chip, I estimate about 10 additional hp, or 195 total. There have been several posts of better driveability and smoother operation with a high performance coil pack, Rapid Fire plugs, or MSD add on ignition. I have never tried any of these, so I cannot say one way or the other. My bone stock ignition system and plain old $0.89 Autolite plugs seem to work just fine even on my turbocharged engine, although I do believe it could be smoother at low speeds, so ignition upgrades are in the possible future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 Hey EDBS0, thanx for that encouragement. lol. The sho was the first car i ever drove ( and its my moms ). And its hard to go from something like that to something like this. Know what i mean? O well. Would i be able to install a k&n cone, new plugs and plug wires. Or do they make any aftermarket ones for these cars? But i am " balling on a budget " cause i only make $120 a week, and $50 of it goes to my payment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 Hey 2seater, is yours a 5spd or a automatic? And how much did the whole turbo thing cost, cause i wouldnt mind doin that to mine, but im also thinking bout trading it in or selling so i can get a integra gsr or something along that nature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTakas Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 (edited) ----- Edited January 2, 2019 by DTakas (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Real answer is to add a trailer hitch for a matching 88 Fiero with SBC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyByNite Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Worry about your brake problem before you do anything in the go fast line. A vehicle that won't run won't get you in any trouble, A vehicle that won't stop will kill you. With the Teves system you will have reverse power brakes, the harder you push, the harder it pushes back. If you want to drive the Reatta and live to see 18 GET THE BRAKES FIXED before you worry about making it go fast, Did I mention, GET THE BRAKES FIXED, if you don't, you are riding a ticking time bomb. perform the brakes test found at www.reatta.net and you will have an idea of what the problem may be. Might be a $10 relay, which for the sake of your life you could afford. I'ld hate to see a young kid dead for lack of a very inexpensive part. Oh yes, GET THE BRAKES FIXED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 It's just the stock automatic, nothing special done except a check valve with a line dump to atmosphere in the line to the modulator. The manual warns about pressure of greater than 5-6 psi can damage the modulator, and I run more boost than that. It is unknown how long the auto will last, but I do use discretion when applying full power and so far it works okay. It does have over 100k miles on it but it does get regular service and fluid changes.If you right click on the signature photo, a little box will pop up, click add to favorites, then go to favorites and click on the photo icon and it will blow up to full size. This is the turbo installed, although you can't see much else. I never did a real accounting of the cost involved but it is somewhere around $800-$900, and over half of that is in the ceramic coating on all the exhaust plumbing I made, and the turbine housing. No heat shields are used anywhere, except the stock one below the cables to the throttle body. Larger injectors, bigger fuel pump, and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator are most of the rest of the cost. The turbo is made of parts from (3) used ones and the piping is made primarily of two sets of stock manifolds which were both very cheap.There is a knock/detonation problem that must be conquered yet, as was pointed out in other posts, before the full potential can be realized. Yah' really need to make sure it will stop before going really fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBS0 Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is a knock/detonation problem that must be conquered yet, </div></div>I see an intercooler in your furure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted January 22, 2004 Author Share Posted January 22, 2004 So what you are saying is dont worry about making my car fast. I guess i probally shouldnt because im probally selling it anyways. My brakes work fine, but im still goin to take it down and have it put on the computer and see whats up with it, because my check engine light comes on too. so.....thanx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyByNite Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 At $120 a week, you can't afford to make it fast but you can and should make it able to stop on demand. Your life depends on this. Scan the posts and you will see that the brakes will give out with no warning, If you don't have them fixed the recommended procedure is push the pedal with all you have, and your brakeing power will still be severly limited. The red light staying on is telling you something, listen to it. Fortunately the Reatta is built like a little tank and this is the only thing that has kept injuries to a minimum. Fix the brakes or get rid of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBS0 Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">im still goin to take it down and have it put on the computer and see whats up with it, because my check engine light comes on too. so.....thanx. </div></div>Hey fatboy are you made of money Most of us Reatta owners do our own diagnostic code error message reading ourselves.Here is how...With pen and pad in hand...Turn your ignition to the on position... Do not start...enter the climate control screen...With two fingers of your choice simultaneously press the warm temperature arrow and off buttons...Release when it beeps... The screen then goes into diagnostic mode and will start to display the codes...Record and report them here...Send the $65 diagnostic fee to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted January 22, 2004 Author Share Posted January 22, 2004 lol i will be sure NOT to do that ( send u the fee ). But thanx for telling me that. Thats been the most useful advise for me. so if i sell it, how much should i sell it for? I mean i havetn even started paying my grandma back yet for the loan....lol. OO ya i have a job interview tomm to at 11:30. So if i get that job, then i will have 2 incomes. and theres a good chance of me gettin the job tomm. once i get pics of it, i will send them to who ever wants them. The interior is great condition, theres one lil tear on the driver side arm rest on the door, and the carpet is stained, but there are floor mats over it ( factory ones to ), and i need to vacum it out. The exterior looks good. Theres one long srape or something on the hood, but she will buff out as my brother says, and a few scuff marks on the front bumper. but other then that it looks good. its dirty, but i also havent had no tag or nuttin to drive it to get it wash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Thanks EDBSO, that would be a nice addition someday. For now I am going to try alcohol injection to get the temps. down and detonation resistance up, but both would be best. I never planned to push it hard enough to really need one, as I figure the rest of the engine and trans. can't handle it long term, but ya never know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 No, I didn't mean it can't be fast, it just needs to stop first. Actually these cars are pretty fast already. They are pretty heavy at about 20 lbs/hp. and aren't a drag racer, but they really excell at cruising, and at pretty elevated speeds too, and are fully capable of 30+ mpg in freeway cruising. You can pick up some useful horsepower for less than $100, by doing the exhaust modification and a homemade air intake, and maybe the thermostat. Another small item to pep it up in the 35-50 mph speed range is either a transistor and resistor in the torque converter lockup wiring or the PROM can be modified to do the same thing, which is to prevent lockup in third gear. It will work normally in fourth gear. This will keep the rpm up a little in the speed range mentioned, which does make the engine more responsive. Before you give up on the car, try the suggestions to diagnose what needs to be fixed. As was pointed out, it won't necessarily be expensive to repair. All the drivetrain stuff is pretty common, and is probably as common as the small block Chevy stuff (although more expensive), since the drivetrain was used in so many cars, including all of GM's full sized fwd cars, except the Caddies and Chevies.When you know what you are up against, you can make your decision. One thing is for sure, it is a relatively rare car, and not for everyone, but you sure won't get lost in a crowd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted January 23, 2004 Author Share Posted January 23, 2004 Ahh im not worried about going fast anymore. All it will do is get me into trouble. If i sell it, how much should i ask for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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