Tinker

I know what you mean Tammy. My father was 40 and I was seventeen when it happened, not even out of high school yet. And I do appreciate my loved ones, both biped and quatriped. And one triped Maincoon cat named "Tripod", (of course) It's a long story. You are right, you just never know. Thank you for the thought. Life is not all about cars.

Here are several windshield repair methods posted on U-toob. I have not tried any of these methods but, if one works, we can all benefit by it. Beats the crap out of buying a new windshield. WINDSHIELD REPAIR Good luck! Hope it works.

Works fine for me. ISP is AT&T, running XP/Pro, SP3

Trabant

Here's a list of ACRONYMS related to the Reatta and most all of GM ECM's. And here is an explanation of how "FUEL MANAGEMENT" works inside the ECM .

E-bay item 110367692699 I noticed the VIN number on E-bay and the VIN number on the SPI (service parts identification) label in the trunk are not the same. Both VIN's are in the database but, only one is a 'Select 60'. Probably just a typo. Nice car though!

Here ya' go: List of all GM 1991 3.8L VIN L engine codes... Doesn't say anything about the speedo or the transmission.

Old Guy, welcome to the forum. Your question might be better answered on this forum: BUICK-PERFORMANCE/MODIFIED although, you might get a few answers from the people here also.

Would this be it? CARS.COM I got it from the Chicago Tribune classified ads.

Here is more than you ever wanted to know about Alternator Theory . And here is the VIDEO about alternator repair. It is a two part video each about ten minutes or so. This is not a Reatta alternator but it is 98% the same. The only things that he did not do was to check the rotor for internal grounding and he did not check the stator for grounds either. Of course, this alternator was fairly new too. So, maybe he felt he didn't have to.

Home made pressure bleeder: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm A must have if you are a do it yourself-er.

4T60 INFO . For anybody considering this transmission.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D-a-n-i-e-l</div><div class="ubbcode-body">3800 should go for a million, the trany may give up around 150k. All depending upon care and driving style </div></div> Wth a little TLC and proper maintenance you might get as much mileage as this Volvo P1800!!! Multi-Million Mile Volvo And it still looks good!

The red brake light also comes on if the emergency brake is partially applied or the switch is out of adjustment. Check that out first before you assume a more urgent problem. OOPS! Sorry guys, I did not notice the other post with the same subject. Glad problem is solved.

RE Permatex: if this is what you are looking for, Permatex Plastic Cleaner you can find it at most national hardware stores. Or, to find a place close to you, Click Here! I would still call first though.

The correct URL is Nylon Pry Bar Set I bought a set of these before last winter and when I tried to pry open my frozen drivers side door one day, the thing snapped off. I guess it doesn't like the cold weather. (Way below freezing.) Now I use a screw driver wrapped in a rag with a small rubber fulcrum if I need it. It should be ok for removing the interior trim or center caps though. I went directly to the store to buy mine as I have one fairly close to me. Saved shipping charges! Oops, Sorry Juddev. you beat me to it with the URL.

Perhaps Contact Them for more information. They seem to have almost every other sticker?

How about these guys? Window Sticker Reproductions

Steak, I believe that the click that you hear is normal but, I don't know what relay that is. If you follow the procedure above, there should be no click since you did not open the battery circuit to insert the ammeter in the first place. I hope this helps.

A way to check battery drain without first disconnecting the battery. Since it is difficult to effect a decent electrical/mechanical connection by trying to insert a milliammeter between the battery and it’s associated bolt-on connection, to say nothing of all the wild current surges that go on when you try to reconnect the power to the circuit, I think I have devised a reasonable and electrically clean (no big sparks) alternative method to accomplish this test. First, remove the plastic cover over the fuel manifold, it just lifts off, to expose the alternator and its’ output terminal. Then remove the little plastic cover over the alternator output terminal (if it is still there), it also will lift/pry off. Oh, be sure that you have the car doors fully closed and the ignition and lights are off for this procedure. Do not forget the little courtesy lights (two 194 bulbs) on the bottom of the rear view mirror. The light under the hood will only light if the headlights (or parking or fog lights) are on but the light in the trunk will light anytime the deck (trunk lid) is open. Could be a bad mercury switch? You should be able to watch the light go out as you slowly close the trunk lid. Next connect a good 12-Volt source, I used a fully charged small motorcycle battery, negative side to any convenient ground. Or you could use a small battery charger I think. Now, connect the positive side of the 12-Volt source to the positive side of an ammeter. I used a Radio Shack # 22-812 digital meter, (same as a Fluke meter.) It has a 10-Amp internal fuse and on the 10-amp scale, it will read down to the nearest 1/10th of a milliamp. (.0001 mA) Then connect the negative side of the ammeter to the alternator output terminal using an alligator clip jumper wire. No need to remove the wire if you know that the alternator is good. A good alternator does not draw any appreciable amount of current. (On the order of Microamps, m) Now, you have two voltage sources feeding the car’s electrical system. You will finally need to disconnect the Positive side of the car’s battery and then you are left with just one 12-Volt external source powering the car’s electrical system through the ammeter and through the alternator output wire which is connected to the positive cable of the battery which is connected to the power distribution system to the rest of the car. So now, you can read the “Quiescent” current draw, which should be 20 - 30 mA (.020A to .030A) or a little higher if you have RKE (Remote Keyless Entry.) You can also use this method for trouble shooting if you make your wires to the ammeter long enough to bring the meter inside the car with you where you can begin pulling fuses and/or circuit breakers. I would first disqualify the lighting circuit as the culprit and then disable it since you are probably going to have to have the passenger door open to access the interior fuse panels. There is also another fuse panel under the hood next to the air cleaner. Pull the fuses one by one until the high current draw goes away to isolate the circuit that is causing the drain on the battery, then trouble shoot that circuit. I know there are a few things that do not go through the fuse panel. Like the Anti-Theft circuitry, and perhaps any aftermarket devices that may have been added, those will have to be checked individually. So, that is my method for reading the idle current draw on any Reatta. Or perhaps, any other kind of GM car? I hope I did not leave anything out or if anybody wants to add anything, please feel free to do so.

Boo, Here is a list of all the commonly used abbreviations, called ACRONYMS , used on most sites on the Internet. I think Padgett has some that are specific to his posts but, he is an CISSP (<span style="text-decoration: underline">C</span>ertified <span style="text-decoration: underline">I</span>nformation <span style="text-decoration: underline">S</span>oftware <span style="text-decoration: underline">S</span>ecurity <span style="text-decoration: underline">P</span>rofessional. So, I think we can allow some creative leeway in his direction. Have fun. It beats the alternative.

I thought that's what I did but, something didn't work the way I thought it would. I guess I have to go back to HTML school. Sorry. Did you ever try to use the Search function on this site?

Steak, Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey. You have right hand threads on your belt tensioner.

Since the 'Hydro assist' Fuel Cell idea is getting kinda long, what does everyone think about this idea. SHELL GAS TO LIQUID PROJECT? (Film is about seven minutes long. Sound on please, Windows XP and [hopefully] a high speed connection.) I think this is a good idea. Better than the "Hocus Pocus" Fuel cell Guessology . This company is willing to invest Billions of Dollars in this technology to reduce the 'Carbon Footprint' of the Fossil Fuels that we use today. I am glad that a major U.S./International corporation is looking into this now, instead of some Middle Eastern company. <span style="text-decoration: underline">If</span> they would ever do it in the first place, you know what I mean? Comments please, even though it is "Off Topic" it is something that all of our children and Grandchildren will have to deal with in the future,,,

If any body is using the Google Toolbar, there is already a spell checker built into it. All you need to do is turn it on if it isn't already on by default. Look for the "ABC" icon with the check mark under it. It wont check Grammar though, but it will help to anglicize a person's posts, if they want to use it. ( Anglicize ) Just tryin' to help.