reatta stalling at hot?????????

[badazzbuick]

this problem is driving me crazzy.. it runs fine for about 10 15 min than when it gets hot it stalls all of the sudden..... i can start it sometimes othertimes it is as iff there is no gas geting to the engien( and i had plenty gas in the tank). i let it sit for about 4 to 5 min and then i rus fine as there were no problem at all? i have brought it to the repair shop for a diagnostic and they say that there are no ecm codes at all and thet the gas pressure is fine. does any one have an idea for what to check... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[FlyByNite]

Wild guess, fuel filter maybe.

[padgett]

Fuel filter would show up most when you stand on it. My thought is a gummed up IAC (Idle Air Controller). Does it sometimes stall when you come up to a stop light ?

[Guest]

Listen to padgett . .

Cleaning my IAC seems to have solved my stall problem.

Disconected the battery negative terminal

Removed the "rubber" "hose" between the air cleaner and throddle body

Placed a towel under the throddle body to catch the two screws that fell out after loosening

Used carb cleaner, ruined one toothbrush on the IAC and a dozen Q-tips poking around the hole- (I can imagine the gunk in the manifold - another project another day)

Put it all back together, started fine, did not stall. Next time cleaning will probably take about 15 minutes.

If I did this wrong, will the experts please let me know. Thanks

I'm still working on my restart problem.

[badazzbuick]

i will check that...thanx!

[badazzbuick]

yeah iv cleend the aic a coulple of times ...it might be time for me to get a new aic...thanx

[badazzbuick]

ill try you tooth brush and q-tip idea ..thanx

[Guest DTerry]

Twice I've had fuel pumps that would stop pumping when hot. One Volvo and one Taurus. If I kept the fuel level over half a tank they would run okay, but if I let it get much below that - on a hot day - it would stutter a few times and then die. Ran okay when it cooled down. I have the same problem on a Dodge Caravan right now. So far if I keep the tank full (cooled by fuel, of course) it runs fine. Another month and it'll be cool enough that I can put it off 'til spring. Does that sound like your symptoms?

[badazzbuick]

actualy those sound real close to my symptoms..usualy when it gets to 1/4 th a tank i notice it more....ill fill it up and see how it works!! thanx man

[padgett]

Did the shop let it run for long enough to stall and was the fuel pressure ok then ? If so it wasn't the pump.

Expensive possibility (but easy to change) is a marginal ESC. Have seen them do all sorts of things but set no codes and always test good on the bench. If you have a "C" engine I would look into replacing the entire ignition/coilpack module with a later and much more common Delco ignition for a 3800. Is a drop-in. See my experience.

And then there is the ECM (remote but possible).

[cashbox]

Check your cat. it may be plugged up. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Guest DTerry]

Whad'ya find out? Do you have a diagnosis yet? We'd all like to know! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Guest]

I had the same problem with my 90. I thought it might be the same thing I had in my 924s. Deposits on my fuel injectors. The previous owner of the Reatta said the gas was old and probably needed draining. I just added a half tank more of fresh gas and a can of injector cleaner. The problem slowly went away and by the time I got to the end of the tank, It would start right up when cold or hot and stopped dieing at stop signs. My Porsche would do the same thing. I had to put injector cleaner in it every 3ed tank just to get it started, or otherwise had to use starting fluid. Come to think of it, the gal I bought it from took a can of starting fluid out from behind the seat before turning it over to me.

[badazzbuick]

allright i still havnt got'n another 100$ diagnosis yet but i have new info...it seems that if or when i put on the gass hard top ether get on to the highway or mrege in to a bussy 45mph street a little while after that it starts rimbling rough??? in order for it to not stall i have to put on some gas and hold the break at a stop light.... then after a few min. it seems to go fine again?? the last diagnosis i got which was about a month ago said every thing looked good but the fuil injectors were read out to 12 ohm's and there rated to be at 15 ohm's so he says that the fuil injection system my be going bad but i hope not cus its over 1000$ to get fixd. and as a college student i dont have that kind of money to fix a car.

[Guest]

I had the same problem with my Volvo. The fuel pump (I thought) was intermitant. Checked the hot wire to the pump and it was ok and the pump was working but the car would not start. Looked at the wire dia. and noticed the fuel injection circuit went through a relay. Had no Idea which relay it was so I bought one from Volvo and matched it to it's socket. When I pulled the old one, it had a big burn mark under it. Car has run good for past 2 years.

[badazzbuick]

ill have to check that..i sure hope it is the problem!! thanx

[Guest]

Always try the easy fix first. On the Reatta, It worked. On the volvo, I kept looking for the root cause for 3 months until it was found. I resisted buying expensive sensors or valves until I had the root cause.

[2seater]

12-16 ohms is the normal resistance range for standard high impedance injectors as used in our cars. Good used, cleaned and flowed injectors are only $30-$40 each. You should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on, if not, more than likely the relay is bad. Most of the time, rough and unstable idle is caused by a dirty/sticky IAC (Idle Air Control), which can usually be helped by a thorough cleaning. Can be many other things but that's the cheapest place to start.

[badazzbuick]

<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />ok..today it stalled again..i have 3/4 of a tank in it. i drove it for about 2 hours runningaarons this morning then took a 2 hour break at home then drove it for about 1 more min and it stalled... would not start imidiatly...had to wait about 3 min or so for it to start up again??? any other new sugestions?? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[padgett]

Well I'd start with a fuel pressure guage - connect the guage to the fitting on the fuel rail and just close the hood an leave it there until it stalls & won't start. If under 30 psi when cranking the problem is in the fuel system. If over, the most likely culprit is the ESC module or wiring (connector is screwed on tight ? Takes a 7 mm socket) followed by the crank sensor. Best to follow the "cranks but does not start" pages in the service manual.

This is the one area where a conventional tachometer would be useful - on my Sunbird and the Fiero when there was a primary ignition problem, the tach would not wiggle on cranking, if good it would.

[2seater]

When it's in the "no start" mode, can you check the fuel pressure and if it has spark? An intermittant problem can be tough to find, as you well know, and to find it you almost have to be in the failure mode to find it. When it stalls, have you tried putting the throttle to the floor and cranking it? The pedal down will put the computer in the "clear flood" mode and will shut off the injectors while cranking. If you know how to operate the diagnostics, you can watch some of the sensor readings to see what the engine "thinks" is happening. Three minutes of down time isn't a lot to find a problem. I am pretty certain the oil pressure switch operates the fuel pump when the car is running and the relay is only operational when the key is first turned on to prime the system. I am not absolutely sure, as the diagram is not clear on what conditions the ECM uses to switch the ground for the fuel pump relay, and it is possible the ECM will use the relay as a backup if there is a failure in the oil pressure switch. It's also possible to have too much fuel, such as a from a sticking injector or too much fuel pressure, that's why some sensor readings may be helpful.

[juddev]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

This is the one area where a conventional tachometer would be useful - on my Sunbird and the Fiero when there was a primary ignition problem, the tach would not wiggle on cranking, if good it would. </div></div>

Good idea I have never thought of that!

[Guest]

'90 Reatta: I have the same problem--stalling and stumbling after about 15 min of driving. I'm getting 2 current codes E034 and E41 (MAF sensor and Cam position sensor) both items tested and cleaned. Added new gas. Cleaned IAC, replaced PVC, replaced air filter (really dirty), replaced cam sensor, replaced oxygen sensor. Have you repaired your problem yet? Any suggestions from the crowd? I can get a used MAF for about $45. Help.

[Guest]

Did you try injector cleaner? Had the same problem. By the time I had used the tank, The problem went away. Deposits on the face of the injectors cause the spray cone to collapse into a dribble and loose atomization. I cant prove this was the cause of my problems but the problem slowly went away over the life of one fuel tank of injector cleaner.

[badazzbuick]

back about 6 months ago i had sumewhat of the same problems i had a technition look at it and he assured me that the coil pack and C3l module after i payed him over $300 (non refundable) i drove away and yup...it dies right away.....then he asks..."by the way is the check ingine light come"? and then he says ohh.... well, we can just hook it up to the comp. and find out exactily whast wrong. i was pissed but it found that the MAF sensor and the O2 sensor were bad so i replaced them.. so i hope these sensors arnt bad again...if so my home made intake my be messing up the sensors

[padgett]

Putting it all together, it sounds like it is running OK in open loop and dying when it tries to go closed loop (Some time after starting cold, 25 seconds after starting when warmed up) Guess I missed it because mine usually goes closed loop within 5 minutes of starting but then I live in Florida.

Many things it could be but would start there. Have never seen a MAF sensor fail (but have heard of it).

Is this technician at a Buick dealer ? Sounds like parts are just being thrown at it (can sorta see changing the ESC and coilpack - hope they gave you back the good parts they replaced) & $24 O2 just because, but a MAF with no codes ?)

Vhardy Re: code 041 - if still have it after changing the sensor, see my web page for an easy/inexpensive fix.

[badazzbuick]

ok i am not too familiar with the open loop and closed loop operation...what causes the car to go in to closed loop????? because today was a hot day and i drove it back and forth to school 2 times wich was 20 miles and had no problems.... so if it is a closed loop problem i can figure out what causes it to go in to closed loop maby i can get arownd this problem

[Guest]

90 Reatta Thanks guys, but coil pack has been replaced and injector cleaner added--still have codes 34 and 41. Maf sensor not replaced yet. Hubby says cam sensor magnet is the problem--we bought the part, but has not been replaced yet. While looking for parts we started having starter problems. The solenoid is not functioning correctly. Manual doesn't use pictures of the same starter/solenoid. Any info on starter/solenoid repair?