Jump to content

Yes...We're still overheating!!! SOS our Reatta Please!!


Gary2

Recommended Posts

Okay, I have looked up a number of the questions and ideas for resolving the overheating. I think there must be an answer out there from someone with a 100% solution. The car: 1990 Reatta - Milege:98,000 What's been completed on the car thus far: Replaced plugs, scoped,replaced air filter, replaced PCV Valve, Cooling System Flush, seal, reoved transmission pan, replaced filter, replaced gaskets, necessary hoes were replaced, thermostat replaced, oil filter replaced, element replaced,fuel filter replaced,induction cleaner kit, p/s kit, refrigerant added, water pump replaced (entire kit), new clamps, resealed oil pan, new gaskets.

Now here's the problem (it's about time huh??): We're in the car, air is on, we are in stalled traffic, it's 97-102 degrees outside and the temp gauge is speeding to HHHot! The car cannot stop in traffic for any period of time before the gauge starts to climb. Is there someone out there who could give me a step by step lesson to repair this minor difficulty please? We enjoy the car, but it's no fun if you can't drive it until Winter! Thank you for your assistance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If both fans are running, it sounds like the radiator has to be the problem. If the tstat hasn't been changed, thats where I would start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please put numbers to HHOT. See the diagnostics on www.reatta.net to see how to display on the IPC. (Values will be in centigrade).

That said, the stock fan setting for turning the HI speed on is 107.75C or 226F. Add in the somewhat reduced cooling area of the Reatta radiator and excursions to 213-215F on hot days at stop lights are common.

IMNSHO that is way too high but the General seems to feel that 230F is OK. To change requires a reblown PROM (mine is set to turn HI on at 190F.

Now it is also possible that you have gotten trash accumulated between the a/c condensor and the radiator which is blocking airflow (was the radiator removed to be flushed ?) but we need to know the numbers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thermostat was replaced. The car runs at 12 o'clock 99% of the time when the weather is reasonable. It has only been since we have gotten into the warmer part of the year that we have seen this change. We turn off the air and within moments the gauge drops down to the 12 o' clock position again. This is when the car is still on the road and running "normal".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your assisitance. i'll check the numbers and post them ASAP (tomorrow...it's dark out there now !) The radiator was not removed just ...dealer flushed (yeah, right). I checked originally to see if there was anything blocking the radiator (like road runners, horned toads, salmon, or a grilled cheese sandwich or rye), but the area was clean. I'll be in touch. Thank you again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest spongebob

ive had bad luck with aftermarket t-stat's, i only use acdelco stuff now..

also i would clean the condensor(a/c), my s10 truck had enough crap between the condensor and radiator to grow potatoes...and just today i cleand the condensor on my reatta, and got some really nasty black crud out, i can see clear through it now...but i think you may have a fan out???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Ranger

Had exactly the same symptoms on my '90. Take the black plastic shroud that spans the opening between the headlights. You'll see a fan thats on the passenger side that pushes air through the radiator from the front of the car. Turn the A/C on and both fans should kick on. My pusher fan didn't, my son found that the fan motor was burned out, also found a frayed power wire to that fan. Taped the wire, replace the fan motor (out of a '90 Riv) and it's been keeping cool ever since.

Good Luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest joereatta

Don't know if this is more than my imagination but when I replaced my coil to solve the hiccups under load at 1500 rpm's (around 45 to 55 mph)cooling seems to be working more efficiently. Yea, the hyperfan would kick in about 2 notches past 12o'clock but wouldn't get it back to 12 o'clock in a traffic jam (which in Philly is the given). Since replacing coil, seems to easily cool of back to 12 o'clock even when stopped for extended periods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest kennyw

your first post says a flush and [seal]. Most sealers are a no no. To easy to clug up what you just cleaned..........ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gary2,

I had the same problem when I first got my 89 Reatta. My first course of action was to replace the thermostat with 180 Degree thermostat. Then, as was asked earlier, <span style="font-weight: bold">CHECK YOUR COOLINGS FANS</span> . The main cooling fan was not coming on in my car. Mine turns on at 213 degrees and cools the engine down to about 200-206 degrees when idling. I imagine that when you're driving down the road you have no problems, but when you're stopped, you're scared crapless because of the heat gauge. It may just be the fan motor that is bad. Spin the fan with your hand and see if it rubs anywhere in it's housing. Mine did, and I imagine that's what burnt the motor out. You may have to replace the motor only and you can re-use the fan blades, shroud, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a) failing coil may be misfiring in all ranges and just noticable at low rpm/high load/lockup - can cause engine to run hotter.

B) I reset my fans to go to HI at 190F and it drops right back to 185F. Next task is to replace the 88 single fan at LO circuit with an 89 both fans at LO. This goes nicely with the 180F superstat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the delay, but there were "things" going on....

Here are the Diagnostic Code replies for your evaluation:

ED01-38 ED04-90-93 ED06-4.6 ED07-.74 ED08-16 ED10-14.0 ED11-728-732-737 ED-12-0

ED16-0 ED17-999 ED18-0 ED19-128 ED20-134 ED21-5.1 ED22-31 ED23-42 ED98-51 ED99-904

bd20-4.3 bd21-low86 and continued to climb to 99 bd61-725-775

Please let me know if you feel there is something else I need to do now that I have these numbers.

The area around both fans are very clean and have been since we purchased the car. Both fans are working as per poncho's ideas. I watched the fans and they both were in working order.

Thank you for your assisitance and please let me know what I should do next. Your instructions open the door a little bit more.

All the best,

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There have been a lot of excellant suggestions but one thing has been overlooked. Is the car really hot or is the gage just reading hot? This could simply be a bad sending unit.

Is there ever an indication that the radiator is "boiling over" into the holding tank? Does the engine smell HOT? Can you borrow a device to check the temperature of the radiator or a thermocouple....

Check the connection at the sending unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Barney,

Thank you for your reply. There is no smell of the engine being hot. There is no over flow of the coolant. I will check to see if there has been any boiling over into the holding tank. Could you tell me where I would locate the connection of the sending unit and I will check it too. Thank you for your assistance. Were the numbers I indicated in the message in the correct levels for the car?

Thank you, Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First....you need to buy a manual

The coolant sensor is behind the thermostat,under the throttle controls.

ED01-38 (should be 0-5.10 volts)

ED04-90-93 (ok)

ED06-4.6 (ok)

ED07-.74 (ok)

ED08-16 (ok)

ED10-14.0 (ok)

ED11-728-732-737 (this is RPM it appears you are at idle)

ED12-0 (mph...you are parked)

ED16-0 (ok)

ED17-999 (should be 0-255)

ED18-0 (ok)

ED19-128 (ok)

ED20-134 (ok)

ED21-5.1 (ok)

ED22-31 (ok)

ED23-42 (ok)

ED98-51 (ignition cycle counter)

ED99-904 (ok)

bd20-4.3 (blower voltage)

bd21-low86 (coolant tempature Centegrade)and continued to climb to 99

bd61-725-775 (engine RPM)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Coolant temp of 99C (210F) is considered normal by the General. Midpoint on the guage in my 92 TranSport is 220F and the first quarter division is 200F (my TS stays around 190 at 2200 rpm cruise with max a/c on a 100 degree day (Kansas City yesterday)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...