Gary2

I have two Reatta parts For Sale. I thought I would place them here to give someone the opportunity of making their shopping list a little easier. The first item is Part Number 3527107. This is the driver's side weather stripping. It as purchased November 2005. The second item is P/N T20588164. This is the trunk weather stripping. It was also purchased last year. I am asking $200.00 for both parts. I will shipping them in the Buick dealer's original box for the door part or put the two into a smaller if you desire. Shipping is available via UPS or USPS, you choose. I look forward to hearing from you. Thank you, Gary2

Hi, You might start checking around just outside your local Buick dealers if they can't assist you. Another good method of getting the actual numbers for the part you need for all the car is to contact a body repair shop. They have a computer program which will break down our cars with all the part numbers. If you try one and they don't have it, then contact AAA and ask them to give you numbers to the "Immediate Service" shops they deal with today. We found part numbers at a local shop for our cars from Reattas first year to their last. Hope this helps. All the best, Gary

Robert, The camel arrived today with the package. I gave him some water and he is on his way to the next stop! Thank you. Now the question... Our Postal Money Order...a Personal Check... a Bank Check? I am not sure which will be easier for you to cash. Please let me know at: fantasticm@earthlink.net. Please use subject: Reatta Thank you again for your kind offer. I had a great time in Ottawa years ago. It's nice to see the people up there haven't changed. I have ordered the other two pieces and they should be in next week. For those who are reading this message--- The part numbers are current, but you might want to check with your buddy at a shop near by you. He/she can get the parts for less than what I have listed. Okay, it's not moke and mirrors, but just business. Contact a NAPA store for the cement you will need and carefully remove the original weather stripping. Don't move too fast, you don't want to strip the paint. Take your time and you will have a perfect job. For those out there who assisted me, thank you again. we'll be ready for the winter weater in L.A. Yes, it does rain in Southern California! All the best, Gary P.S. Thanks Rob, email me please.

Thank you for your kind offer. I would feel more comfortable if you give me a full delivered price please. I have found out what the new replacement trunk weatherstripping would be today. I checked with Fairchild and a few other manufacturers of weatherstripping and they all came up with the same request. I will look forward to hearing from you. Thank you, Gary2

Thank you for your assistance. If I cannot locate the trunk parts, I will be pleased to purchase the part from you. Please give a few more hours of searching. I will continue to look for other companies outside of the GM Dealership. At this time, after two more hours on the phone here are the part numbers for our weatherstripping: Left Door: 3527107- $211.00 Right Door: 20636716- $150.00 Trunk: T20588164 These are the parts numbers from the dealership about forty miles away. The parts can be still ordered through GM. I hope with these numbers, I will be able to locate another company who have the same parts available. Thanks again for your help. Once ordered, the parts three to four days to arrive. If anyone knows a quick source, please let me know! All the best, Gary2

The weather stripping is in poor condition and is cracking. I would like to purchase new stripping. I contacted Metro Moulded Parts, Inc. but they do not carry the replacement for the our cars. Is there anyone out there who has successfully replaced their stripping? Can you direct me to a contact for both doors and the trunk stripping please? Thank you for your advice and assistance in advance. Gary

Hello out there. I am preparing to replace the 1990 Reatta radiator in a few days. I figured with all the owners out there, someone (or more) can give me any "heads up" on what to be ready for before I begin. I once owned a 2002 BMW and repaired most of the car (including the radiator). It was a fairly quick fix with a few bolts, two hoses and a bit of antofreeze, I was done. I can see a antifreeze coming out of the passenger side casing of the radiator. The date on the part indicates it was made 08/89. I can pick up a Modene radiator on Monday. Any thoughts on what I am going to be looking for in this job would be greatly appreciated. After this little bit of work, I am looking to replace the weather stripping on driver's and passenger door frames and the trunk stripping too. I am looking for a trusting place to purchase the correct weather stripping if someone knows please. I actually went to the dealer and one of the fellows behind the counter said...go to a junkyard and take it from an old car. Hmmm, not the answer I was looking for from them. I will look forward to hearing from someone out there. Thank you ahead of time for your constant ideas and advise. All the best, Gary

Hey Barney, Harry, Howard and Mike...and all you out there, I picked up the Brake Switch with a cost of just under $14.00. I replaced the part within moments. Before replacing the two screws to close up the partion, I applied the brake twice. The lights go on and off perfectly. The part you will need (should your auto store use Standard Motor Products, Inc. for their parts supplier) is SLS174 - bar code number 9176908837. Thank you again. If you need to see what the part looks like, please let me know your email address and I will forward the image to you. All the best, Gary

To Barney, Howard and Harry (to all who are out there): It's 11:27 here and the brake lights are out! I removed the brake switch which is pushed into place just in front of the brake pedal. The part is located behind the black cover just above the pedal. Two screws and the unit drops down to give you a full view. I carefully pulled the two connections out (one is smaller and blue in color, the other is black). "Rock" the threaded plastic portion of the switch out of its placed position. I wanted to see how the switch worked, so I popped the black snap top portion of the casing of the switch. This exposed the moving parts which include a long post which when the brake is applied the post moves out and "completes the circle" by touching brass plates and the brake lights go off and on. Further checking, I found the problem. This part is original from 1990. There are sets of contacts which have "arked" with carbon "fingers" and that was causing the lights to remain on. I called the local auto parts store. The new part will cost $13.95 and it will be in tomorrow. I will replace the new part tomorrow and it's back to 100%. I hope this explanation will help others. The dealer would have charged $100 p/h, plus parts (a total of $378.00). All it will end up costing is approximately $14.00 plus and a little time. Thank you to all three. Your assistance again has made tinkering fun! All the best, Gary

I unscrewed the black panel to view the area were the brake pedal shaft is in view. I see an electronic unit which has two connections attached to it. The piece is a milky white colored plastic, approximately three plus inches (approx.) long. It is square cut and approx. one half plus inches wide. The unit has on one end a threaded portion which appears to be pushed into a hole of a one quarter inch. This appears to be facing where the pedal rises and touches. Did I locate the brake pedal switch? How do I remove it without breaking it? Can I purchase a replacement at Auto Zone, Kragen or is it a Dealer only part? Thanks again. Gary

Howard, What is the easiest method of locating the switch please? I have been informed it is under the beauty panel which covers the steering column. Would simple tools work to unmask its appearance? Also, what does it look like? Are there numbers I would look for or a particular shape? Any clues would help, oh Sherlock of Reattas! Thank you, Gary

Thank you for your assistance. I pulled too at the time and the lights didn't go out until after disconnecting the battery lead. The lights are out. I follwoed your information and opened the fuse area on the passenger side. The follwoing are the fuses which are in this are: 2,3,5,7,8, and relay #: E,C,B,F,H,J. In short, there is no #6 fuse to remove. What do I check now? Thank you in advance for your help. Gary

Mr. Yarnell, I did press the brak pedal down by hand, but the lights remained on. Where would I locate the "brake switch" please? Is it near to the area where I can not only hear a relay switching off and on or is it located somewhere else. Thank you for your time. Gary

Mr. Eaton, The back lights on each side of the rear of the car remain on only and they appear to be the turn signals. When I push the post down,the left light goes out and the right light remains on. When I go past "neutral" position and push the post up, the right light goes out and the left light stays on. I did this a few times. I then loosened the battery cable and disconnected the power to the car. The back lights went off and on. As this happened, there was a sound of a relay "clicking" below the relay box. After doing this for several times, the back light went out. That's where we are so far. Please let me know if there is anything else you need to ascertain what I should do next. Thank you again for your help. All the best, Gary

The back lights on each side of the rear of the car remain on only and they appear to be the turn signals. When I push the post down,the left light goes out and the right light remains on. When I go past "neutral" position and push the post up, the right light goes out and the left light stays on. I did this a few times. I then loosened the battery cable and disconnected the power to the car. The back lights went off and on. As this happened, there was a sound of a relay "clicking" below the relay box. After doing this for several times, the back light went out. That's where we are so far. Please let me know if there is anything else you need to ascertain what I should do next. Thank you again for your help. All the best, Gary

The car is a 1990. I turned off the fan, lights and the engine and started to walk away from the car tonight. I realized the back lights were still on. I got back into the car, started the engine and went through the same procedure as before, but the results were the same. I turned the key past accessories and then pulled the turn signal post down, the light went out on one side. I pushed the bar up and the other side went out. When I returned the post to the centered position, both lights were on. I opened the hood, opened the Relay Box and loosened one post of the battery. When the contact left the battery, the lights went out. It appears the "clicking" sound is coming from below the relay box. Not having any written methods (so far), I removed each of the relay units one at a time to see it they might be failing. Once I removed all the relays, the problem continued. I placed my hand on the empty relay box and still felt the "clicking" from possibly a relay below(?). Could someone direct me to the correct placement of this elusive relay. Am I on the right track? I am guessing a relay isn't releasing and that is what is keeping the lights on. Once the battery is disconnected, the power leaves the relay and the switch is open (or in the off position). This possibly is a relay which has been in the car from the manufacturer. Sorry to be long winded, but I wanted you to have the whole process. Thank you for your advise and guidence in advance. All the best, Gary

Wally, Thank you for the advice. If I choose to replace the weatherstripping completely, does anyone have a good place outside the dealer to purchase what I need to do the job correctly? What is the best type of glue to assure a perfect job? Any hints from the experienced ones out there? Thank you, Gary

I have a 1990 model. The weatherstripping looks great. I was told I could adjust the window angle to bring the window closer to the weatherstripping and that will make a better seal. Can you tell me a step by step proceedure please? The other method would be of getting into the window and adjust the angle. I would like to know this method too. I thank you ahead of time. All the best, Gary

Hi Barney, Thank you for your reply. There is no smell of the engine being hot. There is no over flow of the coolant. I will check to see if there has been any boiling over into the holding tank. Could you tell me where I would locate the connection of the sending unit and I will check it too. Thank you for your assistance. Were the numbers I indicated in the message in the correct levels for the car? Thank you, Gary

Sorry for the delay, but there were "things" going on.... Here are the Diagnostic Code replies for your evaluation: ED01-38 ED04-90-93 ED06-4.6 ED07-.74 ED08-16 ED10-14.0 ED11-728-732-737 ED-12-0 ED16-0 ED17-999 ED18-0 ED19-128 ED20-134 ED21-5.1 ED22-31 ED23-42 ED98-51 ED99-904 bd20-4.3 bd21-low86 and continued to climb to 99 bd61-725-775 Please let me know if you feel there is something else I need to do now that I have these numbers. The area around both fans are very clean and have been since we purchased the car. Both fans are working as per poncho's ideas. I watched the fans and they both were in working order. Thank you for your assisitance and please let me know what I should do next. Your instructions open the door a little bit more. All the best, Gary

Thank you for your assisitance. i'll check the numbers and post them ASAP (tomorrow...it's dark out there now !) The radiator was not removed just ...dealer flushed (yeah, right). I checked originally to see if there was anything blocking the radiator (like road runners, horned toads, salmon, or a grilled cheese sandwich or rye), but the area was clean. I'll be in touch. Thank you again.

The thermostat was replaced. The car runs at 12 o'clock 99% of the time when the weather is reasonable. It has only been since we have gotten into the warmer part of the year that we have seen this change. We turn off the air and within moments the gauge drops down to the 12 o' clock position again. This is when the car is still on the road and running "normal".

Thanks for the assistance. How would I check to know the cooling fans are working please?

Okay, I have looked up a number of the questions and ideas for resolving the overheating. I think there must be an answer out there from someone with a 100% solution. The car: 1990 Reatta - Milege:98,000 What's been completed on the car thus far: Replaced plugs, scoped,replaced air filter, replaced PCV Valve, Cooling System Flush, seal, reoved transmission pan, replaced filter, replaced gaskets, necessary hoes were replaced, thermostat replaced, oil filter replaced, element replaced,fuel filter replaced,induction cleaner kit, p/s kit, refrigerant added, water pump replaced (entire kit), new clamps, resealed oil pan, new gaskets. Now here's the problem (it's about time huh??): We're in the car, air is on, we are in stalled traffic, it's 97-102 degrees outside and the temp gauge is speeding to HHHot! The car cannot stop in traffic for any period of time before the gauge starts to climb. Is there someone out there who could give me a step by step lesson to repair this minor difficulty please? We enjoy the car, but it's no fun if you can't drive it until Winter! Thank you for your assistance!

I have noticed air leaking from both passenger and driver's side windows. Can you suggest a place where I may purchase the weather stripping for the 1990 Reatta other than the dealer? Is the stripping easy to replace? What type of glue is best when installing the new stripping? Thank you for your ideas and comments. Gary