The Story Of A Haynes Model 50

[John Bloom]

If I were you, I would make up a story that involves a bombshell reckless heiress, a controlling daddy, the mafia, and a suitcase of cash that has never been found. You can modify the story going forward as you learn bits, and pieces of the truth. If it’s a good enough story, you might even leverage your creative talents and become a content writer for the auction houses. 
 

 

[BobinVirginia]

The only other car I’ve found that’s the same body type. A Model 55 at the Auburn Cord Duesenberg Museum. 

This is a model 55 from 1922 and was a pleasant surprise for me 

Edited August 28 by BobinVirginia (see edit history)

[31 LaSalle]

On 6/13/2024 at 11:08 AM, edinmass said:

After spray welding the shaft I’m surprised it could be cut on a lathe. I would have expected it to be so hard that only a grinder would touch it. 

The best method of repairing a worn shaft is to Hard chrome plate and grind back to original diameter ( to hard to turn )

this is a far superior repair than the metal spray method 

[edinmass]

1 hour ago, 31 LaSalle said:

The best method of repairing a worn shaft is to Hard chrome plate and grind back to original diameter ( to hard to turn )

this is a far superior repair than the metal spray method 

In his case, he did it at his work machine shop, so the repairs were done at no out of pocket cost. And sending out a shaft to be hard chrome is a risk……..loss in shipping, and damage to the shaft from a chrome shop that thinks they know better than the owner of the property. Been there, done that. Spray welding it makes it as good or better than new. You can control the heat and hardness. In reality the best method is stainless and modern seals. 

 

 

 

Edited August 28 by edinmass (see edit history)

[BobinVirginia]

If I get to drive the Haynes enough to wear out the sprayed shaft, I’ll do so with a smile! The spray powder is nickel, chrome and molybdenum. 

[BobinVirginia]

Chapter 12

 

I finally got some time to get back to the Haynes. I got my coolant hose material in and finally put water to it. Full of water and let it run for almost an hour with one 10 minute break in between. The water pump works great and with some very small tightening of the packing nuts no leaks at all. 
 

I let it sit 24 hours afterwards to check for leaks. The only drips were from the packing at the water pump which were almost finger loose after heat cycles. Snugged them again and that stopped. 
 

I’m now certain I’ve got an engine to put on tour!!!! Great flow from the pumpWater never got hotter than 172 with a squirrel cage fan providing air. (I don’t have a fan belt yet) Maintained constant oil pressure as well as temperature.Small amount of seepage at the water manifold. I’m thrilled! Time to fix that and start removing temporary wires and ignition parts and get this thing ready to drive now I know the engine is solid! 

[BobinVirginia]

I need to start a YouTube so o can post videos 

[BobinVirginia]

Just curious, what suggestions do you folks have about tire pressures for a 33X4 tire? I didn’t see a recommended psi on mine and went on the safe side. PJ tires are the brand and any experience with these would be helpful feedback. I plan on driving these a lot

Edited Monday at 02:55 PM by BobinVirginia
Corrected tire manufacturer (see edit history)

[wayne sheldon]

Do you have a good working Motometer?

You want to keep a close watch on any and all Welch plugs (sometimes called "soft plugs") everywhere and anywhere they may be on the engine. Especially any on the back end of the block. Even if you have replaced some of them, sometimes replacements can pop loose. Old ones can look fine and work for awhile or even years, then they commonly fail suddenly. If any sign of leakage develops around old plugs, replace them very SOON! I and many others have seen them go from a small weep to full dump all the water in minutes of driving.

If a replacement doesn't seal well, it may be a sign it didn't seat properly, and again they might shake out suddenly. 

If you have a good Motometer, make a habit of keeping half an eye on it most of the time while driving. Any sudden rise of temperature should be checked out quickly. Motometers do vary individually. The exact normal position will vary from one meter to the next. Get to know your meter and your car, what its "normal" response is under usual conditions.

A plug, pump, or hose failure, can result in severe overheating of an engine in a matter of several minutes.

 

"JP" tires? I am not familiar with that? Many years ago (1950s and 1960s), there was a company in Petit Jean (some Southern state?) that made tires under the name of PJ for antique automobiles. I happen to have (actually they belong to my son) a set of 31X4 straight side tires, never used, still mostly in original wrappers.

They were considered to be very good tires. I have heard rumors of some stashes of them hiding in cool dark places.

 

34X4 straight side tires should probably be run at between 45 and 55 psi. I would like to hear other people's opinions on tire pressure for this size. Been a few years now, but I think I ran my Studebaker's 34X4s at a bit over 50 psi.

[BobinVirginia]

12 hours ago, wayne sheldon said:

Do you have a good working Motometer?

You want to keep a close watch on any and all Welch plugs (sometimes called "soft plugs") everywhere and anywhere they may be on the engine. Especially any on the back end of the block. Even if you have replaced some of them, sometimes replacements can pop loose. Old ones can look fine and work for awhile or even years, then they commonly fail suddenly. If any sign of leakage develops around old plugs, replace them very SOON! I and many others have seen them go from a small weep to full dump all the water in minutes of driving.

If a replacement doesn't seal well, it may be a sign it didn't seat properly, and again they might shake out suddenly. 

If you have a good Motometer, make a habit of keeping half an eye on it most of the time while driving. Any sudden rise of temperature should be checked out quickly. Motometers do vary individually. The exact normal position will vary from one meter to the next. Get to know your meter and your car, what its "normal" response is under usual conditions.

A plug, pump, or hose failure, can result in severe overheating of an engine in a matter of several minutes.

 

"JP" tires? I am not familiar with that? Many years ago (1950s and 1960s), there was a company in Petit Jean (some Southern state?) that made tires under the name of PJ for antique automobiles. I happen to have (actually they belong to my son) a set of 31X4 straight side tires, never used, still mostly in original wrappers.

They were considered to be very good tires. I have heard rumors of some stashes of them hiding in cool dark places.

 

34X4 straight side tires should probably be run at between 45 and 55 psi. I would like to hear other people's opinions on tire pressure for this size. Been a few years now, but I think I ran my Studebaker's 34X4s at a bit over 50 psi.

Thanks Wayne, I don’t have a motometer that works. The water manifold has to come off and be resealed. I’ll take the opportunity to clean as much of the cooling system as possible. I’ll be on the lookout for plugs. 
 

The tires are PJ! lol 

I got it backwards in my head last night. I’ve been safe at 35psi and have felt they need more. Thank you for sharing advice and experience.