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Pins in a johnston carb (1922 Cadillac)


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My carb has two pins on the float mechanism that hold it to the carb that don't appear to be original, they are both essentially just straight wire with nothing retaining them

 

As a result there is marking all around the float bowl from where its been rubbing from not being held captive

 

I'm not sure what would have been there originally (suggestions?) but could I simply replace it with a similar size bolt/nut/washer combo and a bit of blue loctite? 

 

Or is there another way I should be doing it 

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Without pulling one apart, I don't remember if the design was used in 1922; but the later Cadillac (Johnson) carburetors utilized a two float pin mechanism with an embedded hinge that allowed the float to almost move straight up and down (when there was zero wear, and the design worked). This allows the float to have more volume, hence more buoyancy, as chunks do not have to be cut out of the float due to dropping at an angle. The float pins were held in place by the side of the bowl.

 

Just one more reason to love these carburetors ;)

 

Jon

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2 hours ago, carbking said:

Without pulling one apart, I don't remember if the design was used in 1922; but the later Cadillac (Johnson) carburetors utilized a two float pin mechanism with an embedded hinge that allowed the float to almost move straight up and down (when there was zero wear, and the design worked). This allows the float to have more volume, hence more buoyancy, as chunks do not have to be cut out of the float due to dropping at an angle. The float pins were held in place by the side of the bowl.

 

Yeah it's the double hinge design - just was a bit of an unusual design and with the scratch marks on the side of the bowl I was a little bit surprised by i guess they can't go anywhere and the scratches are probably from doing up the bowl 

 

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On 5/27/2024 at 11:22 AM, carbking said:

Without pulling one apart, I don't remember if the design was used in 1922; but the later Cadillac (Johnson) carburetors utilized a two float pin mechanism with an embedded hinge that allowed the float to almost move straight up and down (when there was zero wear, and the design worked). This allows the float to have more volume, hence more buoyancy, as chunks do not have to be cut out of the float due to dropping at an angle. The float pins were held in place by the side of the bowl.

 

Did some more experimenting this evening on my carb and it looks like the pin is not the cause of the issues I was having, the needle isnt' dropping - I have a spare (and seat) but would prefer to keep the original if there is anything I should be doing to stop it sticking (doesn't appear to be gummed up)

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Posted (edited)

The original valves had a groove at the top, and a clip that Rube Goldberg would have been ashamed of, that attached the valve to the hinge assembly. Thus when the float dropped, so did the valve. When it worked. ;) 

 

Jon

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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19 hours ago, carbking said:

The original valves had a groove at the top, and a clip that Rube Goldberg would have been ashamed of, that attached the valve to the hinge assembly. Thus when the float dropped, so did the valve. When it worked. ;) 

 

Does this look like the original?

 

Is the top of the pin supposed to slot somehow into that groove? 

IMG_3402.JPEG

IMG_3400.JPEG

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There is a clip that attaches to the needle and slides over the flat hinge portion of the unit. Also, 99 percent of the replacement needles and seats are manufactured incorrectly……..causing fuel starvation. (Also binding.) A side effect of the incorrect parts are fuel drip or leaks…….depending on the circumstances. Nothing like a piss poor design that has 100 years of hack mechanics altering things in ways that are virtually impossible to detect. 

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The slot you are asking about is for the clip that is missing from your unit. If everything is not PERFECT, it’s a shit show.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, edinmass said:

The slot you are asking about is for the clip that is missing from your unit. If everything is not PERFECT, it’s a shit show.

Don't suppose you have a photo or anything of one so I can attempt to make one? 

 

Checked the parts book and found a reference to it and can only just make it out in the picture of the carb but it's not one of the photos of individual parts

 

Looks like possible it's just a flat piece of spring steel?

Edited by hidden_hunter (see edit history)
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Purple is what I think is happening with the fuel and the yellow is the clip

 

It looks like it could just be a horseshoe shaped piece of spring steel? with a notch cut out for the pin?  

 

image.png.27689b5b3c4d7d7001682ca988fa3e53.png

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23 minutes ago, edinmass said:

Sorry, no photos available on my end.

All good thanks for the tip, it can't be much more than a simple U so I'll probably buy something similar do a bit of filing 

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4 hours ago, Johan Boltendal said:

ttps://straight-eight.com/product-category/cadillac-lasalle-v-8/page/4/

Thanks 🙂

 

Somewhat annoying that it's not in their repair kit because I'm pretty sure that's where I bought it from in the first place... 

 

EDIT: Thought I'd get a couple shipped here so i had some spare and one to go with my other needle and seat...

 

image.png.2a85cd960a7b17e35051daac65def0e0.png

 

Hopefully they can arrange different shipping for me 

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So they confirmed that's the actual shipping price, which leaves me in a bit of a pickle... 

 

When did shipping essentially 3 little clips become 200 bucks...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks to Johan, I now have the clip and am working through sorting out the carb 

 

Blowing through the fuel line it's shutting the fuel on/off and looks to have a movement of somewhere around 1/4" and more importantly no longer sticking

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Bench test it.  These puked when new slightly. I always shut off the petcock every time I drive the car. There are six volt electric shut off valves available so you don’t have to open the hood every time. 

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Spent a bit more time going through it today, slowly getting there me thinks - the latest discovery was that the bypass screw was stuck 1/2" out so cleaned all that up today and reset it back to the factory setting for high test gasoline

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