Is Sleeving a 1928 Buick Master engine block a good option?

[gward1211]

Hello there,  has anyone had experience with a bored and sleeved block.  I have a 1928 Master engine with a block that has been previously bored to 60 thou oversize.  It is a block I have previously run and it has no cracks or leaks.  I recently had reconditioned another engine with 30 thou over-sized pistons.  It transpired that the block of the reconditioned engine has many water jacket cracks and leaks water.  The engine reconditioner has attempted to stitch and/or weld these cracks but it was not very successful - it still leaks.  I wish to swap it out for the old block but it will need further boring and the fitting of sleeves to to suit the 30 thou oversized pistons.

Is sleeving of an engine such as this likely to be successful?  Are there any downsides to sleeving.  If they bore it out to fit the sleeves and strike a water jacket, is there any likelihood of water getting past the sleeve and into the oil?  I believe that the process will involve a press fit - not cooling with liquid nitrogen (as they do for trucks).  Will this be likely to give good thermal contact between the block and the sleeve and no hot spots in the bore?

 

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Kind regards

 

Geoff Ward

 

Edited April 27 by gward1211
To fix title in accordance with rules (see edit history)

[Oldtech]

A good shop can sleeve almost anything, I have had good results with anything I have had sleeved. Did a very  rusty 25 Stude. made it nice.  Can be picey tho. 

[raydurr]

Sonic testing will help determine original cylinder wall thickness before boring. Proper sleeve installation can be as good or better than new.

[Larry Schramm]

I had to sleeve one cylinder on my '15 truck because of broken rod. Still works fine and that was a number of years ago.  

 

Secret:  Get a good shop that knows what they are doing.

 

where are you located?

[gward1211]

I am in Australia

[gward1211]

Many thanks for your advice.

Kind regards

 

Geoff