New 3D Printed Front Grill Section (Prototype) for CDN 1937 Pontiac SilverStreak 224 (Sister Car of the Chevy Master 6)

[GarageStudios]

Hello AACA,

I wanted to share some news on my project as I have not been on the forum for some time; ( I lost my Mom and Step-Dad within 6 months of each other in 22 ) so I took time away from everything to deal with estates etc..

 

Moving back to my Project (I have a few posts on here and so grateful with all the advice), I wanted to share some great progress on 3D Printed Parts, I purchased a new 3D Printer a while back that will print 16"x16"x16" with Carbon Fiber / Nylon Filaments, even higher filament temps as well.. so I can now print all those hard to find parts, as carbon is high temp / UV resistant so great for direct engine bay areas and direct sunlight.

 

Carbon What?

3D Printer Filament (spool of material) - Engineering grade nylon filament which is blended with chopped carbon fibers (approximately 20% by weight), creating a high-strength filament capable of printing tough, shatter-resistant, functional parts capable of replacing many CNC parts. Carbon/Nylons have excellent resistance to alkalis and organic chemicals such as oils, fuel, and organic solvents but are degraded by halogens and inorganic acids. Its HDT is a whopping 150° C (300° F) 

 

I have the original grille sections that are still good to use, however they are showing signs of weakness, so I wanted to test print 1x section first, as I am also new to CAD and 3D printing, 

I have attached my first Print, still needs some tweaking in design, but measures well on the WOW factor,

 

after fitment test, I will then re-print the parts in Carbon/Nylon, and throw some high heat etching primer and paint on them.

 

the Parts can be endless, I can print Headlight Buckets, Tail Light Lenses (with ruby red transparent filaments), Mounts, dash vents, handles, turn signals, etc... I will eventually have a 1937 Pontiac SilverStreak 224 Parts List, sister car of the Chevy Master 6

[Mr. Don]

Great! I work with this stuff often, surfacing priming and prep. This material really does a lot to actually deliver the full potential of this technology.

Good for you!

[drhach]

Great work! I got a 3D printer for Christmas, I've already made a few car related things. They aren't right for everything, but they definitely have their place in the arsenal of tools. 

 

What's next? Are you going to get those parts plated, or are they painted parts? 

 

Regards,

Dan 

[GarageStudios]

@drhach

I may use Alsa Chrome Paint (Colored Easy Chrome - The World's Most Exotic Finishes (alsacorp.com)) OR  a nice deep black finish, My car will be Tiffany Blue with cream interior.

 

 

[Ballesa80]

Are you able to dip these in chrome?

[GarageStudios]

According to the manufacturer, some Nylon/Carbons can after annealing, but I’m game to try it and report back, I’m also considering Alsa Chroming

[Ballesa80]

If you try I'd be very interested. I have a 37 Pontiac and have a not so good grill right now.

[Jeff Spear]

Very nice 3d printing is a great addition for sure. 

Also once you have the CAD work done sending it off for printing in aluminum is an option then you can plate it or just polish it.  I just had a small part printed in a stainless and bronze mix to give it a bronze color.  HV3D in PA printed it for me I have no affiliation with them but I was very happy with the service and result.

Another option might be to print a pla or wax version for investment casting in aluminum. 

I believe that direct printing for sand cast molds is a thing now as well. 

I'm not suggesting there is anything wrong with the carbon but if a guy wanted metal the process can help get you there.  

 

 

[bryankazmer]

On 3/14/2024 at 1:37 PM, GarageStudios said:

According to the manufacturer, some Nylon/Carbons can after annealing, but I’m game to try it and report back, I’m also considering Alsa Chroming

To electroplate, the material must conduct electricity. So you would need the polyamide (« Nylon ») to have a conductive type of carbon black compounded in at high enough levels for the particles to form microscopic connected networks. The amount of network you have determines if the material dissipates static charge or actually conducts

 

just throwing in some black nylon is almost certain to fail

[Gary_Ash]

Most non-conductive materials, like 3D printed PLA or ABS, can be painted with a graphite containing paint, like AquaDAG.  It just needs enough electrical conductivity to let copper start depositing from the plating solution, then it can go into the chrome bath. 

 

The real problem may be that PLA and ABS have about 10-15 times the coefficient of thermal expansion of chromium.  This could cause crazing of the plating as the parts see hot sunshine and cold winter temperatures. 

 

But, there are car parts and bathroom faucets made from plastic with chrome coatings, mostly using a sputtering process in high vacuum to put on the chrome coating, no need for electrical conductivity in or on the plastic. They seem to hold up for years. 

[jmcr]

I'd be a buyer when you are ready to sell 

Edited March 29 by jmcr (see edit history)

[Norman Biggs]

This is interesting.  I have grill in goodshape on my 37- 4dr Pontiac.  It gonna cost a pretty penny to chrome all those small pieces. 

[timecapsule]

I was interested in getting a 3D printer about a decade ago.  The problem I found was that the advancements were moving so fast that whatever I bought, it would be out dated by the time I got through the learning curve of operating it.  Plus I'm not familiar with all the properties of the various materials used these days.  I've heard you can even 3D print steel as well as concrete.

Anyways I'm curious how you got from the first stage to the final results?  In the old days I think the method was to take hundreds of photos of what you wanted to duplicate and feed them into the CAD program and it would spit out what you wanted.  Is that the way it still works on the up to date 3D printers?