1936 Oldsmobile Intermediate Steering Arm Removal-Engine in Place...

[philipj]

Looking for any tips to remove the intermediate steering arm with the engine in place...Per the 1936 "Shop Manual" the sequence is:

 

1- Remove inner ends of tie rods from Int. steering arm

2- Remove drag link

3- Remove pivot bolt, nut, and lock plate...

 

Unbelievable how little info is on that book... The nut sits right under the crankshaft front damper. It is very difficult to access with a 3/4" offset wrench... After much effort, I was able to remove the nut, yet the bolt does not simply slide out... I have tried penetrating oil as well as tapping the front crossmember, vise grips to pull the bolt down and nothing...

 

Short of welding a makeshift slide hammer to the bolt head, how on earth are you supposed to remove that? You have no access from the top at all, unless you remove major components...

 

 

 

 

Edited December 14, 2023 by philipj (see edit history)

[philipj]

Still stuck trying to remove the intermediate steering arm bolt... The nut is out, but the bolt won't give! It must be rusted into the inner part of the bearing... I drilled into the bolt and welded a stud and no success... It does not move a mm down, even with the slide hammer... Any ideas?

 

 

 

 

Edited December 15, 2023 by philipj (see edit history)

[GARY F]

This may sound stupid but will the bolt turn with a socket on it.

[Bloo]

I'd be suggesting Mopar Rust Penetrant (heat riser solvent), but I recently heard it is discontinued. Drat.

 

I am also going to agree the bolt has probably rusted and expanded inside the bearing. Assuming there is nothing else up top, and it is open to where the bolt exits the bearing now that the nut is gone, Maybe you could heat the crap out of the bolt from the bottom with something. Maybe an inductive heater, and then touch a little stick made of candle wax or sealing wax from the top so that wax can melt on the hot bolt and get between the bolt and the inner bore of the bearing.

 

Edited December 16, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[philipj]

The bolt turns, since it is stuck to the inner part of this huge bearing.... Not familiar with the Mopar penetrant, but it is also a challenge to get it in there. There is minimal room... I was practicing with WD40 rigged with a tiny tube and I don't think I got any oil in there... I will try again tomorrow with penetrating oil and a little wire wrapped around the tube for guidance...

Today a friend and I tried induction heat getting part of the bolt red, and still did not move at all...;( 

Well, funny you say that, my next step is a torch to heat up that bolt from the bottom, my only option... I will have to undo the front engine mount bolts and raise the engine enough not to damage the mount. I do not have another spare, and no one is re-vulcanizing them...

Never heard about the wax trick, but it is impossible to do anything from the top. My photo of the nut from the top is very deceiving, giving you the impression that there is a lot of room under the front damper... About 3/4" and with difficult access from the side because of the supporting clam shaped plate riveted to the front crossmember... 
I am going into almost a week just trying to get this out... By far the hardest job I have done under a car with only 18" of clearance....

[NailheadBob]

Maybe this might work, use a Inductive heat Mini-Ductor Venon HP and heat up the stubborn bolt frozen inside the bearing till it is red hot and then use a large pry bar and pry the bolt (to push the bolt downward) and maybe it will pop free from the bearing, worth a try I think

 

OR   use a air cut off tool and cut a couple slots all the way through in steering intermediate arm (you have a new one and bolt anyway), and then hit it with a air chisel and it will split the intermediate arm open jus a little and you could work at cutting a slit in the bearing and again with air chisel pop it and see if bearing will free to move bolt out.

 

Bob

[NailheadBob]

@philipj any update on your dilemma?

 

Bob