1928 Chrysler Model 72 Ignition Switch Cable/Wire Replacement

[leomara]

This is the ignition switch.  The armored cable has been cut and the wire is old and frayed.  The key works.  The housing appears to be crimped shut at the back end.  Can someone advise me on how this can this be serviced?

[edinmass]

Lots of delicate work. You can buy the cable. What you want is an old time mechanic with pre war skills. They are difficult to find. I know of someone who can do it, but you will be in line for six months before he gets to it. If you want his info, Pm me.

[leomara]

I contacted your technician edinmass.  Very knowledgeable and willing to explain what this is all about.  This switch is not an easy item to resolve (difficult and expensive) and quite frankly I don't know if I want to go that route.  I'm not planning to show this car so replacing the ignition switch may be a more reasonable endeavor.  The restored cars I've seen photos of on line do not appear to have used the original switch because the cable going to the distributor in some instances is armored and in some it's not.  However where it is armored the type of armored cable used is not anything like the original.  I will have to ruminate on this some more.  

 

[viv w]

Hi Leo,

 I decided to reply to you thru the forum, as this may interest others with model 72.

 I had a look at the parts book today and on the model 72 they used  2 types of Ignition switch, 2 types of coils , 2 types of distributors and I'm sure 2 different wiring looms and diagrams.

 The circuit diagram I sent you, has 3 wires plus the armoured cable going to the ignition switch. This type shows an input from the ampmeter(battery) plus an input from the coil, it will also have an output to the gas guage and then an output thru the armoured cable direct to the distributor.

 The switch you have, has 2 wires plus the armoured cable. The only way that switch can work is with one input from the ammeter and 2 outputs, one feeding to the gas guage and the other output going thru the armoured cable to the coil, NOT to the distributor. It would help if you can show some pictures of your coil, the distributor where the coil wire attaches and also the fedco number off the dash.

 Look carefully on your ignition switch, it should have markings either in the bakelite or stamped on the side into the metal. I'm sure you will find it says, gas guage, battery and coil.

regards

Viv.

[leomara]

Hi, Viv W, unfortunately looking at the photo above nothing is stamped or printed on my switch, there is no bakelite, just a fiber cap on the rear where the wires connect.  I will clean it well and see if anything turns up I may have missed.  The armored cable has been cut.  The coil while I believe is original has no type of receptacle for the armored cable, just the normal two threaded lugs for wiring.  This is the coil.  The distributor is not in my possession now, it is at the engine rebuilders.  The distributor that came with the engine was a one set of points type which I know was not correct so I obtained another distributor which is correct with two sets of points.  

[leomara]

The ignition switch I displayed in the first post on this topic is a Shaler Co.  ignition lock.  Does anyone have any information about this ignition switch?

[BlueDevil]

Leo,

 

Here is the switch you sent me dismantled.

 

I used a set of channel lock pliers to ben the crimped edges. Things are pretty intuitive as to how they fit together, keyways, notches.

 

This is the end plate with the markings for the wire connections. The complicated part is the bakelite housing that has a rotary contact that is riveted.

The problem is how to replace the wire without totally disassembling the whole piece.

 

 

[leomara]

Very impressive.  Nice work.