63 parts help day 28..

[Dundee]

Sorry me again!!!

Diving in to instrument panel and dash wiring and firstly you will note the RH conversion seems to have provided for some crude modifications, are those welds a sign of swapping the ends, I expect the LH version is straight casting. Definitely getting a nicer job done on this..

As I piece her back together mostly just to see what I have find screws etc even though it may come back out again for remedial works I realise that the car probably hasn't been in so many parts since it started its tour through the fisher assemble line. Her are my questions, Good luck!

 

1/ is the high beam indicator lens to be red, as these days in Aus anyway usually blue?

2/ Should I have lenses for Hi/Low temp, Alt and fuel? If so what colours perhaps photo?

3/ Any ideas to the right hand top 2 components? 

4/ on the circuit board I believe the right hand finger is where the park brake light goes (green wire as per what leaves the switch) but the left finger I think is a missing dash illumination bulb? 

5/ is there any reason why some of these lamp holder are black and others grey?

6/ On the clock thing does the bulb with the power plug go straight into hole in back of clock and should I be excited that after a clean with contact cleaner and some Lube the clock is running with the reserve weight? haven't applied power yet??

7/ Does that lamp in my hand go into the tube like receptacle for the ignition and provide light to the ignition in what means??

 

little but lots..Thanks heaps!

 

 

[EmTee]

18 minutes ago, Dundee said:

1/ is the high beam indicator lens to be red, as these days in Aus anyway usually blue?

2/ Should I have lenses for Hi/Low temp, Alt and fuel? If so what colours perhaps photo?

3/ Any ideas to the right hand top 2 components? 

4/ on the circuit board I believe the right hand finger is where the park brake light goes (green wire as per what leaves the switch) but the left finger I think is a missing dash illumination bulb? 

5/ is there any reason why some of these lamp holder are black and others grey?

6/ On the clock thing does the bulb with the power plug go straight into hole in back of clock and should I be excited that after a clean with contact cleaner and some Lube the clock is running with the reserve weight? haven't applied power yet??

7/ Does that lamp in my hand go into the tube like receptacle for the ignition and provide light to the ignition in what means??

1) Yes, it would have been red originally.

2) I believe those would also have been red.

6) Yes, the lamp for the clock should come on with the instrument panel lamps.

7) Yes, the ignition switch is illuminated (dimly) with the instrument panel lamps.

[gungeey]

The 2 temp reads Cold/Hot= White/Red

 

Let's see some close ups of the cobbled together wiring harness? 

[Jim Cannon]

There is no lens for fuel.

 

You can put in a blue LED for high beam, if you want, and the the red len out. (I considered that but kept it red.)

 

Cold is a green lens. I also use a green LED bulb.

 

ALT and HOT are red.  I used a regular bulb on the ALT and a red LED on the HOT.

 

There is no lens on Fuel.

 

Oil is red lens; I also used a red LED.

 

I left the bulb on the ignition switch out.

 

#5. The outside perimeter bulbs are to light up the instruments.  It looks like those are your grey ones.  I put in warm white LEDs.  Trace the printed circuit lines around and you will find all the instrument panel bulb holes. The shop manual may also tell you.

 

Black bulb holders are for indicators. I put green LEDs in for left and right turn.

 

Numbering the questions is helpful but it would also help if you could letter ID each piece you are asking about and then we can identify it by that letter.

 

The very long skinny green piece is for the center console shifter light.

 

The green piece that looks like Darth Vader's mask goes behind the spot where the High Beam, Left and Right indicator bulb are installed. This mask keeps one bulb from lighting up adjacent lenses.

 

 

 

 

[Jim Cannon]

If yours are missing, I think I have some of the green and red lenses from a parts car that you can have.  Same with black and grey bulb holders.

[Dundee]

6 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

If yours are missing, I think I have some of the green and red lenses from a parts car that you can have.  Same with black and grey bulb holders.

Thanks to all contributors and again nailed it! Noted on the parts photos however you got the pieces in question thanks Jim. I may take you up on those lenses and a bulb holder as the only one in the group I have found so far is the oil and indicator albeit wrapped in a tiny piece of tissue in an insignificant container so who knows the rest may show up though I am getting to the bottom of the barrel. 
I will make a mental note and revert to you on the topic down the track. Indicator and tilt adjust arms for steering column are another mystery as are 2 vent console switches for the courtesy light and antennae. 
cheers Ron 

most I read your post in the LED lamp company and have saved the details.

[Dundee]

8 hours ago, gungeey said:

The 2 temp reads Cold/Hot= White/Red

 

Let's see some close ups of the cobbled together wiring harness? 

Actually looks better now with some organising

[Jim Cannon]

What color will your interior be?  I might have turn and tilt levers here in my parts pile.

 

Do they still have the brake light switch hydraulic actuated? At this time, with the car apart, you may want to put in a 1964 brake pedal bracket with the switch mounted to it, and convert to mechanical brake light switch instead of hydraulic. Easy to swap out now, impossible in the future.  (I did that on my car when I had everything apart last year.)

 

 

[Dundee]

Jim the interior will be silver with black details to most part as the new yet old upholstery is already compromised from 20 years shed storage so we will be recovering. 

So the park brake has mechanical switch but for the main brakes assuming something hydraulic could have been in engine Bay??, everything is stripped out so if I find the wiring for the switching will organise a manual setup.

on a side note while under there looking is this the spring you recommend removing for turn signal..?

 

[Jim Cannon]

Yes, that's the spring to remove from the turn signal switch.  And make sure the switch body slides freely on the 2 pins that hold it.

 

The brake light switch was originally mounted to the cast iron master cylinder in the engine compartment.

 

Do you apply the parking brake with left foot or right?  This RHD car is very cool.  I drove RHD when we lived in England, but park brake was on a pull lever in the center console by the tranny shifter.

 

 

[Dundee]

18 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:

Yes, that's the spring to remove from the turn signal switch.  And make sure the switch body slides freely on the 2 pins that hold it.

 

The brake light switch was originally mounted to the cast iron master cylinder in the engine compartment.

 

Do you apply the parking brake with left foot or right?  This RHD car is very cool.  I drove RHD when we lived in England, but park brake was on a pull lever in the center console by the tranny shifter.

 

 

I have the old master will have a look but all new gear including double reservoir master. 
park will be right side outer. 
Clean the turn signal today✅

[Jim Cannon]

2 hours ago, Dundee said:

I have the old master will have a look but all new gear including double reservoir master. 
park will be right side outer. 
Clean the turn signal today✅

For cleaning and polishing the clear plastic lenses for the front (and any plastic, for that matter) I have found the Meguiar's PlastX to be really good. I don't know if it is available around you.

 

https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/products/meguiarsr-plastxtm-clear-plastic-cleaner-polish-g12310-10-oz-liquid

 

You should totally add the mechanical stop light switch if you are going to change to dual master cylinder.  Find a '64 or '65 parts car and get the bracket and switch out of it.

 

 

[Dundee]

3 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

For cleaning and polishing the clear plastic lenses for the front (and any plastic, for that matter) I have found the Meguiar's PlastX to be really good. I don't know if it is available around you.

 

https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/products/meguiarsr-plastxtm-clear-plastic-cleaner-polish-g12310-10-oz-liquid

 

You should totally add the mechanical stop light switch if you are going to change to dual master cylinder.  Find a '64 or '65 parts car and get the bracket and switch out of it.

 

 

Pretty sure I have seen that brand In autobarn here! Funny thing is although some really basic parts missing the guy had multiples of other stuff like bezzles, trims, fuzzies and some lenses?? Well that part you identified to cover the turn signal lamps confirmed I am not short one instrument lamp holder as there was a fourth in that cover for an option I don’t have and it has a blade that stops you inserting a lamp there. Engine bay wiring looms looking sad and a few mystery wires and plugs on the LHS that I am thinking could be wiper motor and washer TBC and a mysterious fibreglass sheathed wire in the loom that is broken down. Was there any of that cabling used?

[Jim Cannon]

The fibreglass sheathed wire is probably the resistance wire that was built into the wiring harness to reduce voltage to the coil when the engine is running. This wire is bypassed when the key switch is turned all the way to the Start position and the starter motor is turning. It can be replaced (if it is bad) with a ceramic block ignition ballast resistor used on many cars of this era. You will still want to wire it up to be bypassed when cranking.

 

 

[Dundee]

8 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

The fibreglass sheathed wire is probably the resistance wire that was built into the wiring harness to reduce voltage to the coil when the engine is running. This wire is bypassed when the key switch is turned all the way to the Start position and the starter motor is turning. It can be replaced (if it is bad) with a ceramic block ignition ballast resistor used on many cars of this era. You will still want to wire it up to be bypassed when cranking.

 

 

Understood and thanks!

[Jim Cannon]

This project really has my interest.  I may have to book a flight down there to check it out. And I can bring spares in my suitcase! What big airport are you closest to?

[Dundee]

13 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:

This project really has my interest.  I may have to book a flight down there to check it out. And I can bring spares in my suitcase! What big airport are you closest to?

That’s a very exciting prospect Jim. 
I am a little over 3 hours drive from Brisbane airport which is probably the best option. Remembering this however! I am the owner/ researcher of parts at the moment and although I would like to be involved more in her reassembly I am handing over to family who specialise in restoration. 
For me it has been a good opportunity to see her in her ‘naked form’ as when you buy a car you rarely get to see it back to basics like this and it will be great knowledge going forward I am sure as I will know where and how a lot of stuff goes together. So pleased at that level in any case. 
The crew are picking up the car around the 27th September which is a big ask in itself almost 4000 k round trip back to Adelaide. There seems to be a good Riviera following in Adelaide from what I can see and one member Rodney Beauchamp has offered to take his 63 to the shop and see my car and talk and show and tell to the family which I expect will be invaluable seeing a completed car. I am hopeful to get there during the process though this may not be until next year depending on their workload in the shop. First it’s writing parts lists I have it need and getting some ordering underway before year end.
Perhaps if Adelaide works for you then we can organise something together at a stage in the program that makes sense, early, mid or late? Remember this car was already shifted away from original by last owner so I am trying to find a balance in what should be correct and what could be better or modernised or what I can live with that could always go back to original easily if wanted. It seems the prospect of taking it back to DD may already be off the cards and funds have to be directed to the correct areas. Ultimately I just want to cruise in it and I don’t want it to take forever. The car has been in pieces for 30 years so committed to getting it done in 1-2 years full if the budget doesn’t blow out .

Maybe we should talk on the phone one weekend?

Lots to consider….

[Jim Cannon]

3 hours from Brisbane! Crikey, mate, where are you?

 

I have friends along the Gold Coast I would have to stop in and visit them also. I may just come see the finished product.

 

Whenever I go, it will be a long visit to see everyone.  Trying to tie it to an old car rally or two.

 

 

[Dundee]

Understand! well after 45 years on the Gold Coast I escaped to the country, we are in Grafton NSW these days with many trips to the Gold Coast as my sister is there still. Actually I am up there 30th October for the GC500 racing. Where are your friends exactly on the GC? After my earlier message today the brother shunted me off 4 weeks so new pick up time for Riviera is 24th October...

no pressure obviously with a trip like that for you but if you get down under we can figure something out I am sure..

Best regards Ron