1930 Chevrolet touring car, looking for top assembly information

[nsbrassnut]

Hi All

 

I’m trying to help out another old car person with some issues with the 1930 Chevrolet phaeton.

 

The top was mostly missing when the car was acquired and the restoration started. As the work progressed new steam bent oak bows were made and have been installed on the top folding mechanism. However, the top assembly does not fold down well and the metal guide arms catch on each other. The four bows were all made the same with, and it doesn’t help that they have also started to relax a bit and are trying to move slightly open.

 

The metal folding mechanism appears to be made so that the mounting bar goes on the outside of the front/first bow and then on the inside of the 2^nd then the 3^rd and 4^th bows are tapered to go into the oval top sockets. When the front bow is removed, the mechanism appears to fold better and suggests that the front bow should be 2-3 inches narrower than the second bow.

 

The parts book list the four bows with four different part numbers. I’m not sure if that is indicating that all four bows should be different widths or that the four bows would have been factor pre-shaped a bit different.

 

We are wondering if there is anyone out there with a 1929 to 1931 Chevrolet touring car with original sized top bows that could measure the bow widths and let us know if they are different sizes and if so, perhaps what the correct width should be.

 

Some pictures below to try to show the issues.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Jeff

Nova Scotia

Canada

[viv w]

Hi Jeff, I worked on a couple of Chevs from 1927/8/9 , the top irons are all much the same for these years. As far as the top bows are concerned they are all different widths. I don't have access to these cars anymore , but maybe someone else can give you some dimensions.

[dibarlaw]

nsbrassnut

 Repeat what the other posters say. Someone with a 1929 or 1930 should chime in.

 As I found out with my 1925 Buick. The original top was gone and whoever fixed the car up in the late 1960s adapted an older larger Buick top cutting it down and rewelding the sockets. Also all the bows were made the same width. When folded the top mechanisim does not "Nest" and makes for an awkward stack. By 1930 as with the Chevrolet the top mechanisims were engineered to nest into a smaller stack.

 I had a new set of sockets made and correctly sized bows and hope to make things nicer in function and appearance.

Narroest at the front to widest at the rear.

 

[Gunsmoke]

 Hi Jeff: Assuming rearmost main bow is correct, easiest method is to remove other bows and set rear bow down where it normally rests and fold the side iron hardware so that it rests naturally, longish bars should generally be parallel when folded, and the various connections relaxed, not under strain, straight up and down and so on. (Bars typically are spaced apart 1/8"-1/2" or so when folded). With everything held in a firm place (temporarily brace if necessary) then carefully measure across to each respective bow mounting spots and that will tell you a very close bow dimension. Hopefully some of them will be correct! As you know, I had no bows for my Chrysler CD8 roadster. The, rear bow was an easy one to determine because it secures to fixed pivot on body (with 1/2" spacer) and sides of bow are vertical when up, so inside of bow was 53.5". Intermediate bow measured 52", and finally front bow finished at 49". They fold and stack properly. One risk of getting dimensions over inline connections is as you mention warping over time, uncertainty if bows are original, measuring mistakes (inside/ outside/ taper on bows etc). Most likely front bow is 3-4" narrower than rears and intermediate bows may also gradually reduce in width. Since it will likely have to be altered, I would plan to use a stainless steel sleeve (matching closely XxX profile of bows) about 12" long, cut front bow in half, and gradually remove some wood from ends of each cut piece, trim to slide tightly into sleeve, and slip into sleeve and check for folding freedom and do several times until a comfortable and working dimension is reached. Then either a new bow of correct dimension can be made, or the sleeved one used, by securing sleeve to bow properly. Holes/slots can be drilled in sleeve where top material needs to be stapled. Many of these tops had bows covered with cloth material anyway.

[nsbrassnut]

Hi Gunsmoke

 

Yes, I did try that. We removed the front and second bow completely and then folded the irons to "nest" better, but not ideal. I think that they may have become a bit twisted with the replacement bows.

 

And yes, when that was done, the irons would suggest that the front bow should be 2 to 3 inches narrow than it currently is. And if the second bow was a bit narrower as well, then the top should fold down better.

 

Thanks

Jeff