Brooklyn Beer Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 If someone has a picture of a factory 1 piece cable could they post a picture? I am in the process of replacing one and doing away with one really bad Rube Goldberg job. For some odd reason there is an "extra" cable running from the battery directly to the starter along with the factory original one that just by-passes the solenoid in the manner of someone's thinking of "Hey I need more juice to turn this over because the factory one is shot so lets just do this" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marty14 Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 post it here: www.forcbodiesonly.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 (edited) If the original positive cable is still present to the solenoid and another one from there to the battery, I would think you are correct on your theory. Could be that one of those original cables is weak. Assuming that the problem was slow cranking. However, it could also be a weak ground cable. Most people tend to ignore weak ground possibilities. Edited May 14, 2022 by JACK M (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted May 14, 2022 Author Share Posted May 14, 2022 Everything on the starting side was original. Here is what started happening. Car is my parts runner and since I got it not done much too it except the brakes as everything was fine. One day it cranked over and fired up but it was cold so it stumbled and stalled. Went to re-crank and nothing. Not even a click. So popped the hood and checked the terminals and the positive heading to the starter was hot. REAL hot. So I had my buddies help me push into the garage where I have been working my way down from the battery and changing out the original stuff. Ground, etc. Still had a Chrysler starter in it along with the original wiring. My thinking is the person who had it before me had a same type issue and just added an extra wire because they didn't want to mess with the 12 gauge solenoid wire encased in the insulation with the starter cable. Installed a new starter and now working back with the wiring to the battery. I can't find a repo on the 1 piece cable with the solenoid clip crimped on in the middle so am 2 piecing it. Rock auto specials. Just curious to see if this one I removed was really original still. Starter sure looked at least 40 years old by the wear on the nose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 Your problem is likely right where the cable got hot. I have seen cables that look fine but still have trouble passing current. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted May 14, 2022 Author Share Posted May 14, 2022 Thanks. This cable looks from the year one. Glad I tossed her on the lift as I found quite a leak where the speedo cable mates to the trans as well. Now to see how hard of a time it is to find the fix for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 That will be an O-ring. If you don't have a selection most auto parts stores do. That speedo cable housing adapter that is held by the small bolt with a clamp will come right out. But be sure that you put that clamp back into the same slots that you take it out of (those slots might be numbered). This has to do with the plastic gear under there. That adapter is concentric and takes different plastic gears depending on the rear end gearing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted May 14, 2022 Author Share Posted May 14, 2022 Not leaking at the connection to the trans but from the cable itself about 6 inches from the trans is where the drips are. I see parts suppliers listing speedo cables for an 880 that is anything but for an 880 and NOS is way too much for this car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 (edited) A typical C body battery cable has a big wire and a smaller wire at the battery post end. Both go along the trough in the inner fender, then the smaller one goes to the start relay and the big cable heads down to the starter. These were always a problem to make a really good one with no kludges because most of the aftermarket cables, which tend to be crap anyway, either had a bunch of extra wires at the terminal, or they had one extra but it was too small. Too small isn't really a big deal when it is only 5 or 6 inches long, but you had to solder and heatshrink it out in the middle of a wire. I tried to repair the original cables whenever possible, but they were usually too cut up. Some battery dealers can custom make cables, and put a second wire of a large enough gauge in before they crimp/solder/heatshrink the positive terminal on. This is probably the best option. I have also seen Chryslers with a cable that had only the large cable, and then a lug attached around the cable partway down. The big cable went to the relay and attached with the lug, and then went on down to the starter. I think your car is too new to have this, but I can't remember for sure. I guess it is obvious to make one of these you would have to cut the insulation back, make a lug, and solder it on. It might not be pretty. @JACK M nailed it about the hot spot. That is where the trouble is. Edited May 14, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted May 14, 2022 Author Share Posted May 14, 2022 (edited) I ended up using two different cables and making the small 12 gauge solenoid wire as it is impossible to find a repo in the one piece. Every supply house listed 2 separate cables. Battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter. Lug was long enough to accept both so that is how I went. Haven't cranked it yet as the battery is on charge. This year 880's were basically Newports. Now trying to find a speedo cable. This could get a "Red-Green" fix as I can't find anything. Edited May 14, 2022 by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 Whats special about the speedo cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted May 14, 2022 Author Share Posted May 14, 2022 It has a long white plastic gear on one end and pushes into the trans where it is held in place with a clamp. The other end screws on normally. Like this. Then the plastic gear is pushed on. They want crazy prices for NOS and the repo's I have found are as bad as they beefed them up for racing I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted May 14, 2022 Share Posted May 14, 2022 Oh yeah. Those. 1965 and back I think. I gather it's too far gone to just put a new core in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 The outer sheath is split and that is where it is leaking from, 5-6 inches from the trans. I don't know if there is a seal behind the gear that can be replaced or not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 It really shouldn't have fluid out that far. I don't think a new one will help with a leak. Have a look at this: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/speedometer-cable-leakage.438724/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 Sounds exactly like the issue I am seeing 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 Thanks a lot. Here is what I need http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=SSK-E 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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