1936 Series 40 Heat Riser

[Rock10]

We are experiencing percolation at the carb and think the heat riser may be to blame. The shaft turns smoothly. It has about 90 degrees of rotation. Which way is heating the carb and which way is closing off the heat? The big spring gets big in the freezer and smaller when heated. Is there any way to tell if the flap/valve is still intact inside the manifold.

Thanks

[Bloo]

I don't have a Buick in front of me right now to look at, but most inline engines are the same.

 

The heavy spot on the weight should be straight up, or nearly so when the engine is cold. The heavy spot of the weight typically falls toward the block with the engine warm.

 

The total travel is a bit less than the 90 degrees that it would be on a V8 style engine where the flapper blocks the flow.

 

With the thermostat spring off, you should be able to turn the flapper shaft 70-80-ish degrees before it bottoms out on either side.

 

Orient the spring to the weight goes down when it gets hotter.

[Buick35]

The shaft on my 35s is frozen ,was like that since I had the car but it runs o.k.I didn't know there was a weight on it,it must be missing.Anybody have a picture of what it looks like?Thanks

[pont35cpe]

4 hours ago, Buick35 said:

The shaft on my 35s is frozen ,was like that since I had the car but it runs o.k.I didn't know there was a weight on it,it must be missing.Anybody have a picture of what it looks like?Thanks

Here is a couple pictures from my extra engine, `36 233. Position of weight in the picture(closed?), exhaust flows up thru base of intake. When warmed up weight drops(90deg) and exhaust flows to header pipe.

Edited September 16, 2021 by pont35cpe (see edit history)

[Buick35]

Thanks,mines missing the weight.I might try to locate

another heat rider or remove my flapper valve. Would you sell your spare one?

[pont35cpe]

2 hours ago, Buick35 said:

Thanks,mines missing the weight.I might try to locate

another heat rider or remove my flapper valve. Would you sell your spare one?

Sorry, but won`t part out. Eventually i may sell this complete setup, everything has been rebuilt and 100% complete, ready to bolt in. Only thing left to do is fire it up and adjust the valves, which i plan to do, that`s why the temporary 12v.

 

Edited September 16, 2021 by pont35cpe (see edit history)

[Buick35]

Nice,just thought I'd ask.Greg

[pont35cpe]

1 hour ago, Buick35 said:

Nice,just thought I'd ask.Greg

Greg, here is one just listed yesterday on ebay. Needs some work, like they all do. Flapper in mine was froze up also, i used acetone/trans fluid 50/50 mix soaking the shaft, then i looked inside at the flapper, one side was against the metal, other side had about 1/16" gap from the metal, so i set it up in my press and applied pressure to work the shaft sideways and it freed up to where i could start moving the flapper, little stiff at first, worked it awhile then freed up completely. Studs were also broke, one had enough bolt i could grab with vise grips, heated with a torch and it screwed out, the other was broke off flush, i center punched it and started with a small drill bit, then a couple bigger ones, again used the torch, and an easy out, and it screwed out. Rather high on shipping, but duz have a make offer. A `37 or `38 40 series exhaust manifold might work also. My brother might have one, he has 2 `38 40 series. Here is the ad.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/303930235424?hash=item46c3a75a20:g:F~sAAOSwi-xgWQk7

Edited September 16, 2021 by pont35cpe (see edit history)

[pont35cpe]

5 minutes ago, pont35cpe said:

Greg, here is one just listed yesterday on ebay. Needs some work, like they all do. Flapper in mine was froze up also, i used acetone/trans fluid 50/50 mix soaking the shaft, then i looked inside at the flapper, one side was against the metal, other side had about 1/16" gap from the metal, so i set it up in my press and applied pressure to work the shaft sideways and it freed up to where i could start moving the flapper, little stiff at first, worked it awhile then freed up completely. Studs were also broke, one had enough bolt i could grab with vise grips, heated with a torch and it screwed out, the other was broke off flush, i center punched it and started with a small drill bit, then a couple bigger ones, again used the torch, and an easy out, and it screwed out. Rather high on shipping, but duz have a make offer. A `37 or `38 40 series exhaust manifold might work also. My brother might have one, he has 2 `38 40 series. Here is the ad.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/303930235424?hash=item46c3a75a20:g:F~sAAOSwi-xgWQk7

And here is a `37 intake/exhaust. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124901159254?hash=item1d14b07156:g:X0MAAOSwUbFhQQaX

[Buick35]

Thanks.I just finished removing mine.I twisted off one stud and forgot to remove the bolt in the very back.After I removed it I was able to get it out. It helps when all the bolts are out,but thanks for the information. I'll look up the e-bay ad but if your brother has one Id rather buy it from him.Greg

[pont35cpe]

1 hour ago, Buick35 said:

Thanks.I just finished removing mine.I twisted off one stud and forgot to remove the bolt in the very back.After I removed it I was able to get it out. It helps when all the bolts are out,but thanks for the information. I'll look up the e-bay ad but if your brother has one Id rather buy it from him.Greg

Greg, i`m in Texas and my brother is about an hour away in Oklahoma. I`m planning a ride up there within the next few days(weekend), then will let you know if he has one. Tom

[Buick35]

Sounds good,I noticed my housing has a crack in it too.Greg