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Guidance on 1968 convertible


Lennon_68

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I've never been a part of the world of classic cars.  My grandpa had a 1968 cadillac convertible when I was a kid though and I've always dreamed of owning one.  In the past when I've searched for cadillacs around that year for sale the prices were very high.  In a very strange twist of fate I stumbled upon one (1968 cadillac de ville convertible) for sale last night, near a place we were going to be visiting for the weekend, for what I think is a good price - 5k.  It runs and drives but is a bit crusty - generally dirty all over, some dents and dings, spots of rust here and there.

 

I have the money to buy the car and I think I'm buying it for the right reasons (not thinking of it as an investment but a long term project with some strong nostalgia mixed in).  I've done a decent amount of work on my own cars but nothing too serious (starters, struts, etc).  No body work.

 

Questions:

1.  What should I be looking for on the car when I look at it?

2.  Can I haul this thing home (about 300 miles) with a 2014 yukon xl denali and a uhaul car hauler?  My research says this should be fine but I've never hauled anything nearly this heavy before.

 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Be very careful when you examine the car you are considering, at that price it is likely to have both serious mechanical and cosmetic issues. The best advice I can give you is to keep saving your money and get the best car you can afford, it will be far cheaper in the long run. If you do decide you want the car you mentioned, carefully check it for rust areas especially the bottom rear portions of the front fenders. Make sure the power options work properly, including the top. Also, check the automatic climate control system to see if it functions. Drive the car to see if it runs, steer and brakes OK.  Check the condition of the oil, coolant and transmission fluids for signs of neglect. Ask if there is any repair or maintenance history available. These cars had leather interiors that will be expensive to replace if in poor condition. If the car is really rough you could easily end up spending far more to bring it into a decent condition than you would if you bought a better car for more money. Consider this, if you buy a good, solid car to start, you can enjoy it immediately instead of spending a lot of time and effort getting it to an operable condition.  I bought the the 1967 Cadillac pictured a little over two years ago and it is low mileage, all original example. It was not inexpensive but it would have cost far more to restore a car in bad condition. Nice cars are out there but you have to be patient.

I hope this helps.

 

 

 

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Thanks for the response and the advice 48super!  Part of what I infer from your response is that this COULD be a really good deal but its a red flag that the price is this low.  I have to decide today as there are lots of others coming to look at it.  I think I'm going to buy it now then try to sort out what I ended up with.  If anyone has experience with towing something like this with a yukon xl (or similar) id be interested in some confirmation that ill be able to pull it off.

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What I'm really trying to say is that sometimes an inexpensive car can end up being the most expensive car due to the amount of work it ends up requiring. Look the car over carefully and remember once you buy it, any problems and defects it has become YOURS to deal with. Good luck and I hope you get a car you can be happy with.

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Got it..  Thanks!  I'll be back with detailed pictures to help me understand what I may be in for before I start investing money and energy.  If there's any specific area to look for let me know.  There is rust on the normal spot on each side, right down in front of the doors.  It does run and drive fine.  It probably needs tires, just due to age.  It is leaking transmission fluid, he said that should be an easyish fix but you have to climb under it and disconnect the driveshaft.

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My car leaked transmission fluid from the front u-joint, this is a common problem. There is an o-ring on the transmission output shaft the seals the splines on the front driveshaft yoke. When it goes bad, transmission fluid finds its way out through a breather hole in the front yoke. The repair isn't to bad but you have to remove the driveshaft, transmission mount support and the transmission output shaft housing to get in there to replace the o-ring. It is also a good time to replace the output shaft seal as well.

 

Something else to be aware of: If the engine has a good number of miles on it, it may need the timing chain and sprocket replaced. The 429 engine originally had a nylon sprocket which deteriorates with time and mileage.

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Looks like I should be able to pull this fine with my rig and a uhaul auto hauler.  Did the paperwork yesterday so its officially mine just have to pick it up tomorrow and haul it home!  Drove it around a bit and it definitely put a huge smile on my face!  I'll be back around with lots of questions I'm sure :)

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Congrats-

You'll love driving this Caddy.

Sorry I let go of our '70 convertible,

but still have the '41 and the '54 convertibles to drive and enjoy

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