1989randyboy Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 My 89 quit when i pulled over to park and wouldn't restart yesterday. Sat overnight and started right up. Ran about 5 minutes, then shut it off. Wouldn't start again. Codes E026 and E044 came up. I have a new o2 sensor to put in as i was only getting about 13mpg. Not getting any spark now. Assume it's electrical issue. Not sure what to check first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 Typical items for loss of spark when hot is Ignition Control Module under the coils or the Crank Sensor. The crank sensor generally doesn’t heal when cooled off, it stays broken, but I had one that did so, so it can happen. Check the area between the coil pack and ICM for sticky or soft material oozing out. Sure sign it is failing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989randyboy Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 Thanks for your reply! I'm sure this isn't the first time for this question. Are there tools that are used to test the module and coils? I would like to find an old mechanic that can diagnose issues like this. I have other problems that need to be checked out on the car. Mostly electrical issues that drive you a little crazy lol. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989randyboy Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 Car started and idled for a half hour today. Turned off the key and wouldn't restart. Hear a rattling noise around the crankshaft damper area when idling. Second try to start it popped once and that's it. Cooling fan is working and oil pressure looks ok. Don't see any weepage from the control module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 The rattle is likely the damper but doesn't normally affect the CPS function. The slotted ring is on the inner member. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989randyboy Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 Wondering if the crank sensor could be loose or broken. Maybe the cause of the ratttle?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 4 hours ago, 1989randyboy said: Wondering if the crank sensor could be loose or broken. Maybe the cause of the ratttle?? No, it is the harmonic damper on the front of the crank, not an unusual problem. Check for spark when it won’t start. Probably won’t have spark. What is your level of mechanical ability? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Jake Moran Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Tim to replace the harmonic balancer, Crankshaft Position Sensor and coil pack/ignition control module. Use the best parts possible and you won't likely need to replace again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989randyboy Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 I'm an old school mechanic. Worked on cars from the 50's and 60's. Those were easy to trouble shoot. Didn't keep up on technology after the seventies. Pretty sure it's a crank sensor or control module. Lost spark when it quit. Had the same problem with a couple of LeSabres that i owned. Codes don't seem to help much. Troubleshooting is difficult. Have to get the car up so i can get to the crank sensor and balancer. Do the coil packs and modules look different for different brands? Hear mentioned using Delco or some other brand. Looks like some kind of motor mount or brace blocking the balancer. Assume that has to come out. You folks are a great group! The support is very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 If you are familiar with LeSabre's of similar generation then it is exactly the same. Defects in the area mentioned do set any codes. Balancer and crank sensor behind it are best accessed through the wheelwell. Yes, the little shock and its mount must be removed to remove the balancer. If you have never removed the big bolt in the end of the crank, be prepared to apply lots of force. Torque spec is well over 200 lb/ft. Balancer itself is a slip fit and a puller is not needed. If the face of the balancer rubber has cracks or chunks missing, it is likely the source of the rattle at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989randyboy Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 Thank you to everyone for helping me diagnose my problems! After watching some Youtube videos i discovered that the harmonic balancer is indeed shot. Hoping to get some help doing the work soon. Bad back is fighting my every move. Going to replace the crank sensor and serpentine belt when I get it done. Have an O2 sensor on hand to install also. Thinking of replacing the control module and possibly the coil pack. Priced the balancer and crank sensor at around $150 through my buddies at my parts store. Is Dorman a reputable brand for the balancer?? My parts guy doesn't list any other supplier. I would also like to share the Youtube video on diagnosing the bad balancer, but don't know how to put the link in here. Thanks again my friends! Happy cruising! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989randyboy Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 https://youtu.be/V5LpYFT4TUw Here's the link for diagnosing the harmonic balancer. 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989randyboy Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 The a/c line is not an issue on my 89 but may be on other years of the Reattas. The diagnosis is the main point for sharing the video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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