1923 Dodge engine

[dodge28]

Hi cutdown, I strongly recommend taking the crankshaft to a good machinist and make the  gear press fit . Then use a puller . Drill/ thread , a 1/2 inch hole at the front of the shaft and use a bolt to drive the pulley in. The keys and pin holes can be used for timing . While the crank is out check the clearance and adjust the bearings by removing some shims from the caps if there are any.  It is a good time to polish the journals.

[cutdown]

Its a fully reconditioned engine. You are probably referring to the original crank that was in the engine.  After a complete strip down, I decided that crank was cracked and it has never been used. I used the crank out of my second engine.

[dodge28]

Good going, Mate.

Cheers and happy holidays

[cutdown]

Finally got it running. Sorry, You will have to stand on your head to view the picture of the car  in our back yard. Tried rotating the pic on the computer before adding it and that didn't work.

Lots of work done since last posting.  Cured the carb leak problem by adding a minute smear of sealer to the carb lower gasket. Not what I would normally do, but the new gasket leaked and its in an area not effecting any orifices as in later carbs. Vacuum pump and back up SU pump working well. I had to remove the large filter as that was causing too much restriction. Noticed the fuel tank leaking so had that out and re-soldered the bottom protrusion also the to where the fuel outlet joins. Tank was actually quite clean and no rust. No need for the filter.

My biggest problem getting it going was the magneto. Not enough spark Sent that away to get rebuilt. Cost nearly $1000.00 NZ but now going well. Starter was not up to the job so tow started it at first. Now the car is home in our garage, had to figure out how to start it without towing. At the moment, I get my co pilot to work the starter while I crank. Starts easily with a little enrichment. To heavy for me to turn it over without the assistance. Generator side works well.

[Mark Gregush]

[cutdown]

When I rebuilt the engine on this car, I didn't redo the water pump, as it appeared to be ok. My mistake.  I saw that Mattml had fitted mechanical seals to his car so decided to do the same with mine as well as fitting proper oil seals to the Auxiliary drive [  no machining required ].  I could not locate any mechanical pump seals in NZ like matt had fitted so contacted him. He offered to send me a couple. I had already disassembled two other water pumps to find the best option as well as getting a new shaft from Myers. Everything had arrived here in NZ 10 days ago so took the pump assy off the car and attempted to strip it. The impellor pin would not come out so ended up using an impellor of one of the other pumps. Just as well, because the keyway and pin hole on one of the spares was the only one which matched the new shaft. Sorted out the least worn bodies and fitted the two oil seals to the auxiliary drive, but had to take my water pump down to the Men's Shed as my lathe didn't have a big enough throw to spin the bodies because of the water outlets. 

Got everything back together yesterday but because of wet weather until tonight, did not test the engine till this evening.  All good.

 

BTW, the problem I had with the sinking oil level float was fixed last weekend.  The float that was in the car weighed 54 grams, and the replacement I got weighed only 42 grams. That worked very well. Now with 5.6 litres [ 6 US Quarts ] , the float sticks up all the way and nearly to the water jacket.

 

A big thankyou  to Matt [ from Koo Wee Rup North ] for sending me those seals.

Edited April 21 by cutdown
picture (see edit history)

[Mattml430]

Well done mate great to hear you have it all back together and running again. 👍👍

And you’re welcome,  more than happy to help. I have received so much help from this forum so it’s nice to give back.