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16 valve cranks but won't start


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My 16 valve will crank, but not start.  It ran before I replaced the fuel lines with new ones and also replaced the distributor cap with a new one along with the coil wire and the plug wires I got from Rick Diogo.  The fuel pump was already replaced a few months back. Any suggestions as to where I should check for the non starting problem?

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Do you have a 89 SMEC or 90-91 sbec? Have you verified that you have spark and fuel? It’s not uncommon to have a bad HEP in your distributor or if yours is an 89 a bad power board inside your SMEC it’s the smaller board with white rectangular connector. Also when you turn the key to the run position do you hear the fuel pump prime and the ASD relay click.

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Also if you don’t have a scan tool you can check flash codes. To do this you cycle the key to the run position and off 3 times and on the 3rd time leave it in the run position. Now look at your check engine light. It will come on and off once and then flash in a 2 digit series of flashes. For example 1 flash pause 2 flashes will be code 12 which is battery disconnected in last 30-100 engine starts is The finial code is 55 for end of codes. 
 

The some of the best information you can find us from Gary Donovan his web page is http://www.thedodgegarage.com

look under turbo database for information. 

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It was built in Feb 89 and has an uncommon block.  The SMEC is probably an 89.  The car ran ok before I replaced the fuel lines etc.  I have not heard the fuel pump prime when I turn it to the run position, but it is a new fuel pump that worked fine before the lines were replaced.  I will have to check for the ASD sound.

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All SMEC’s have 2 connectors and all SBEC’s have 1 connector. If you have a SMEC with a bad power board you won’t get any spark. Same with a bad HEP you won’t get any spark. I would pull a plug out and check to see if you have spark. Do you know how to check? I don’t know you level of mechanical ability. Sorry

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Well when it comes to the TC I have a moderate level of competence.  When I was young I was an A6 Intruder technician, but that was years ago.  I don't believe I have any spark.  I will look at replacing the HEP, I am just puzzled at why I had ignition prior to replacing the fuel lines and the distributor, rotor and wires.

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3 hours ago, zagato said:

My 16 valve will crank, but not start.  It ran before I replaced the fuel lines with new ones and also replaced the distributor cap with a new one along with the coil wire and the plug wires I got from Rick Diogo.  The fuel pump was already replaced a few months back. Any suggestions as to where I should check for the non starting problem?

 

I apologize for butting in since I don't own a TC. The fuel pump only runs a few seconds to prime and pressurize the system when you turn the key to run. Is it possible that the fuel lines are full of air and the pump hasn't run long enough to get all the air out?  The Buick Reatta has a fuel pump prime wire that you can connect 12 volts and make the fuel pump run continuously in situations like this. Does the TC have a way to make the pump run long enough continuously to purge air from the system?

 

 

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Hi Ronnie,

 

You are not butting in.  I appreciate the input.  I don't know to make the pump run continuously.  The TC has a schrader valve on the fuel rail and I have checked to see that I have fuel running to that point.

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Do you have a spare power board to try out? It’s just easier to swap out than the hep on a 16v anyway. You don’t even have to take the computer out you can just unplug the white connector from the SMEC and plug it into a different power board outside of the case to do a quick check. If you need one I have several spares just shoot me a pm. D1E92A7C-22CE-4067-BD2B-7810365EC768.thumb.jpeg.4fa077a9b9babbe23b6033b57b81b985.jpeg

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There’s a few other things that also could’ve happened when you replaced the distributor cap. If you pulled the entire distributor out there’s a chance you could’ve put it back in 180 out of timing. To check rotate the engine by hand to TDC with the cap off look at the rotor and verify that it is firing the #1 cyl. If it’s not simply pull the distributor back out rotate it 180 and put it back in. Now the rotor should be firing #1. Double check for correct firing order. And lastly make sure the spade terminals are pushed all the way into the cap. They should not freely pull out of the cap. It takes a lot of force to push them all the way in. 

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Make sure the coil wire is actually fully seated. Sometimes the boots don't allow it to snap all the way down. 

 

Also check that the rotor button is in the cap. While it is new, it could be a bad part out of the box (seen it). 

 

Other than that, check the codes as described above. It very well could be that the HEP "died" by being messed with. The wires tend to break from fatigue inside of the insulation. 

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