Torque ball/ u-joint rebuild procedure

[Larry Schramm]

I thought that some of you might be interested in how to disassemble the torque ball/ u-joint on our old vehicles.  Below is the write up on what I did.

 

I disassembled the torque ball that I am going to use on my 1915 Buick truck.  The original torque ball had a square shaft output but is was worn out. This u-joint is from a 6 cylinder Buick.  I have been told that it is a Spicer joint. 

 

You can see the disassembled pieces in the first pictures. 

 

 

The two bushings that that hold the spider to the flanged part of the joint do not have any retaining rings to hold them in the flanged yolk.  They are held in place by the cover.  To remove them I tapped them out with a punch from the opposite side while supporting the yolk. You can see the lube groove area that gave a purchase point where I could tap them out with a punch. They were a little bit tight from corrosion, but not a problem to remove them.  

 

 

The output side did have retaining rings holding the bushings in place.   I was able to fish out the rings so the bushings could be removed and the complete u-joint could be glass beaded.  After removing the retaining rings I tapped out the bushings.

 

My plan for the retaining rings is to use a hot melt glue gun and fill the void with hot melt glue.  This is how modern u-joints are held together. 

Change in retention plan.  I have talked to others and the hot melt might not be strong enough for this application.  I now plan on using a clip again to retain the cap in the yolk.

 

Any questions, let me know.

 

I am going to solution clean all of the parts and repack with graphite-molly grease and reassemble the joint.  Example below.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3141-Moly-Graph-Pressure-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000CPJMZ2/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=Moly-Graph&qid=1613416073&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-13-catcorr

 

From a google search:

"What is graphite grease used for?

 

Moly grease is a special formulation that is used in situations where metal slides against mental under high pressure and is generally used on pinion gears and splines."

 

There is a place for a grease fitting on the cover.  Should be good for touring next summer.

Edited February 15, 2021 by Larry Schramm (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

Is there any special reason you would not just replace the retainer rings instead of employing the hot glue?

[Brian_Heil]

I think they are using Nylon with a melting point around 500F   Hot glue is ~175F

 

We used Nylon to help retain the water pump bearing in the housing of the 3800.  Injected hot into a groove in the bore of the housing and a matching groove in the the bearing outer race.  Worked great.  The housing was aluminum and the bearing steel.  At very cold temperatures and limit press fit stack up the aluminum was yielding due to differences in thermal contraction rates and a fairly thin wall of aluminum  

Edited February 15, 2021 by Brian_Heil (see edit history)

[Terry Wiegand]

Larry,

When you put this all back together and ready to insert the drive shaft into the splined yoke, you will want to be sure and liberally apply LocTite LB8012 to the internal and external splines.  This stuff is somewhat sticky and will stay put.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas