Charging issues on my 64'

[EmTee]

13 hours ago, Jerry Shuck said:

1.  Engine OFF:  battery reads 13.9 volts DC

I was confused right from the beginning... 

[Jim Cannon]

14 hours ago, Jerry Shuck said:

Here is the lates.  Lectric Limited sent me a new replacement voltage regulator and here is the new situation;

 

1.  Engine OFF:  battery reads 13.9 volts DC

 

2.  Engine RUNNING:

     a.  Regulator humming constantly with dummy light on constantly...a little bit of flicker.

     b.  Battery reads   16.7 Volts DC

     c.  Battery reads    5.0 to .7 Volts AC

 

Can I assume that the diodes are bad?  Any more helpful ideas?

Yes, one or more bad diodes in the alternator.

 

That's why you are reading AC at the battery.

 

That's why the VR field coil is vibrating and the ALT light is on.

 

If you replace the mechanical VR with an electronic one, you are masking the problem with the bad diode in the alternator.

 

Have you removed and bench tested the alternator?

 

[Jerry Shuck]

The fella who rebuilt the alternator agrees to let me send it back for inspection.  From all that I have gathered, I believe that you are correct about the diodes.  Thanks and I'll let you know what becomes of the next go round of remove/ship/replace tasks.

[Jerry Shuck]

Jim, the rebuilder of the alternator says that all diodes etc check out fine.  He suspects a bad ground to the voltage regulator.  I'm about ready to throw in the towel and put an internally regulated alternator it.  Do you have a specific brand/model of alternator that you would recommend?

[Jim Cannon]

Remove the "battery cutoff switch" and run it again.  See if the chatter stops.  Just run straight cables for the test.

 

 

Edited December 21, 2022 by Jim Cannon (see edit history)

[XframeFX]

4 hours ago, Jerry Shuck said:

I'm about ready to throw in the towel and put an internally regulated alternator it.

Jerry, if bypassing the cut-off switch does not work and you want to do a conversion, you want a 3-wire 10SI unit.

 

With my conversion, I stayed away  from 1-wire, chrome, satin and other flavours from speed shops that carry various off-shore units including Power Master. Still, I'm on my 2nd and the off-shore internal regulator is giving me grief. Now I'm hearing Power Master is indeed good. However, no more rebuilds. I mentioned a new Bosch on page-1 of this post. Will be my pick if I do it for the 3rd time.

 

Quote:

"New Bosch AL530N which is a 3-wire 10SI at 61 Amps. The case may need to be "clocked" to bring the connector to the bottom."

 

You'll need to release both contacts from the 10DN square connector and insert to a 10SI flat connector after sliding some heat resistant sleeve over the 2-wires. The connector will be close to #1 exhaust port with the Bosch unit.

Then, install 2 jumpers at the V. Regulator. One across F & 3 (terminal #1 on 10SI). The 2nd across 2 & 4 (terminal #2 on 10SI and is voltage sensing direct to horn relay junction).

 

Best to have your battery turned around for + away from the fender.

 

Good Luck!

[Jerry Shuck]

I installed the cut-off switch thirty years ago and never have had a problem.   In fact I never had any electrical problems (other than all high beams blowing out a decade ago) until I got into replacing the ignition switch, light switch and dimmer switch and Hdlp bulbs.  Fixed the high beam problem then decided to rebuild the alternator and replace the voltage regulator for good measure.  I should have stuck to the old adage; if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

Guess I'm going with a Bosch alternator next.  Thanks to all of you gentlemen for your help.