Water Pump Packing Material

[A. Ebbert]

My 1929 Commander 6 Cylinder has a constant water drip from the packing nut on the back side of the water pump. I had a shop repack it a year ago, but it didn't really get any better. After a short while it's gotten bad again (left a puddle on the floor after last time out). I've tightened and or loosened the nut to find a good spot, but I'm thinking I may need to repack it.

What material and where should I get that to repack the packing nut??

Thanks!!

[Matt Harwood]

Restoration Supply (www.restorationstuff.com) sells graphite packing material that is correct and will work, although it can be a bit of a pain to work with (so is their website,  but you can find the packing there somewhere, somehow). You can't just wrap it around the shaft, you have to cut it to length and make rings and stack the rings. Some will even say that you need to cut the ends at angles so they meet perfectly to reduce the chance leaks. My fingers are way too big and clumsy to make that work and even tweezers can be a challenge. Or maybe it doesn't matter and we're over-thinking it, which happens a lot.

 

Depending on the diameter of your water pump shaft, Snyder's Antique Auto (Model A supplier) makes these neat little rings that are already pre-formed and ready to install. I think they're about 5/8" ID so if your shaft is around 5/8, they're a much easier solution. I ultimately used them on my Lincoln K two summers ago and they worked rather well, although installation is still a bit of a trick.

 

https://snydersantiqueauto.com/ProductDetail/A-8524-L_WATER-PUMP-GRAPHITE-PACKING

[A. Ebbert]

Awesome! Thanks for the lead!

[JimKB1MCV]

If the water pump shaft is anything other than smooth the new packing will not last.

If the packing gland is overtightened the resulting friction can score the shaft and ruin the sealing effect.

Before you invest the time in replacing the packing you really need to look at the shaft closely.

Loose pump bearings and rust or pitting on the shaft also will guarantee a leak. 

After any necessary repairs the gland should leak an occasional  drop which keeps the packing lubricated.

You may be able to have modern seals installed on the pump, no leaks.  Packed pumps are more fun, though.

Good luck.

[Guest]

Remember, a packing gland need to have an occasional drip in order to be lubricated.  This is one place where too tight is too easy.

[Tim Wolfe]

I did away with the rope packing on my 1930 Chryslers. I had the  part the gland nut screws on to accept a lip seal. Haven't had a leak yet! And, you can't see the seal, pump looks original. I have pictures if your interested and send me an email address.  timandjuliawolfe1@roadrunner.com

[JV Puleo]

McMaster Carr also sells pump packing material. I've used strands of asbestos impregnated rope lubricated with a little Never-Seeze (I have a ten lifetime supply of the stuff)...it worked for a time but renewing the shaft was the only thing that worked well.

 

It is very likely that the surface of the water pump shaft is corroded from electrolysis, in which case repacking it with new material will not solve the problem in anything other than the short term. The only effective solution is a new shaft and, since you have to dismantle the water pump to do that, there is no good reason not to modify it for a more modern seal...you can renew the bushings as well so it runs straight.

 

Edited May 29, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)