53 New Yorker Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Hello everyone I'm re-posting this in the Chrysler section, because I was in the General AACA section... and even though I was getting some help from a few devoted Chrysler guys... I think I'll get even more information in here. I've owned my 1953 Chrysler for 37 years now, and have always done my own maintenance, including brake work. But, until now, I haven't had to pay attention to the Master Cylinder, beyond topping it off with fluid and flushing out the system every couple of years. Now, I've got to replace the mater cylinder, and have no idea where to start. The books I have, talk about rebuilding it... but they don't go into detail about the actual removal and installation process. I've lifted the floor panel, and can see a very strong looking spring that holds the clutch pedal, and wonder how to release the tension on it... I also wonder what linkages truly need to come off the pedals, and then how to get the pedals off the master cylinder. Can this be down through the floor of the car, or does it have to be jacked up and do I have to get under the car? Basically, I'm wondering HOW does a person get the master cylinder out and then back in again? Thanks for any help Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobileparts Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Bill, Left you my phone number in the other listing --- Craig 516 - 485 - 1935..... I have all the parts -- U.S.A. made -- BRAND NEW -- (But can't help you with working on cars -- I know they are a pain in the neck with that brake push rod in the snout of the master cylinder --- but I don't work on cars... I am a parts man....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 You mentioned you had a Chilton manual? Do you have or have access to an original Chrysler manual? I have one for all of the ‘53 Chryslers and Imperials. You mentioned owning your car for a long time. In that time have you adjusted the brakes? A major adjustment with some type of tool to assist with keeping the shoes concentric to the centre of the axle? The clutch spring is not hard to remove. If you get down under the car and follow the clutch spring back to the anchored end you’ll see and adjustment nut. Back it off all the way. The spring goes loose and then is easily removed. Below here is removal instructions from my 1953 Motors Manual. Also a pic of the clutch spring. Anchor and adjustment is seen far left of pic. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 A little more help here in this photo. This is how it all goes together. The master cylinder is held in place by 3 bolts, fastening its body to the car frame. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 One more pic for good luck. Ya just gotta get under the car and get dirty with some tools. Look at these drawings I supplied. Look at and study whats actually there on your car and compare it to the drawimgs. As you mentioned there is little written in any of my original Chrysler manuals about MC removal. Actually written in my ‘53 manual, under the section titled “Master Cylinder” it reads, “Step 1. Remove master cylinder from car. “. That’s it. Step 2 is “Disassemble and thoroughly clean all parts.” 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 I just went out and had a peek under my ‘53. Red arrow in pic points to clutch spring anchor nut. Back that tight off then remove spring. Green arrow points to the rear of my master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 (edited) I knock the 2 outer horse shoe clips off each end of the master cylinder pedal shaft using the two jaws of an open end 13/16 wrench hitting the other end of the wrench. Remove the 2 steel brake fluid lines..top booster bleed back and 1 rear line. Remove both pedal smaller return springs... Also remove both the clutch and brake adjustable push rods...NOTE Be aware to not let the clutch pedal slam down and whack you! With out the clutch linkage push rod installed on the clutch pedal if you push or pull on it, it can slam down to the frame...watch it! If it does leave it down or just push or pull it back up depending if you are under or up in the car. This only with the big clutch pedal assist spring still connected. As Keith shows and advises remove the big nut on the rear of the spring to relieve tension to remove this spring. Now remove the three master cylinder mounting bolts. With the three bolts out now you can remove the pedals and M/ cylinder up and out of the car with the floor panel removed. Then slip both pedals off the pivot shaft and press the pivot shaft out of the cylinder. I usually do not remove the floor pan for typical master cylinder replacement...no need and saves a lot of time. I just remove the cylinder from underneath by maneuvering the cylinder enough to slip each pedal off the pivot shaft (the horse shoe clips are already removed) leaving the pedals hanging in the floor pan. Then pulling cylinder down and out of car for replacement. This way does require horse shoe clip removal on the car. If you do remove the floor pan for access then the clips can be removed after the cylinder and pedals are pulled out from above. Take pictures and you will have to re- adjust both clutch and brake pedal free play on re- assembly so take note of both before dis- assembly! Shown is using the factory horse shoe clip tool and a cheater open end wrench to remove clips. Edited November 27, 2019 by c49er Incorrect information posted! (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53 New Yorker Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 hey there Keithb7 & c49er These pictures and explanation are Terrific ! This is going to be a great help for me. THANK YOU! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Keith is right...you must have to remove the big over center spring nut to relieve tension on the spring...my bad I thought 53's were the same as 1946 thru 1952 six and eight Chrysler cars. Just screw the nut back on exactly as it was.🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53 New Yorker Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 Well... Today is a "Day off" for me, So I screwed up my courage and went out to the garage to address getting the M Cylinder out of the car. I had a little trouble with that huge return spring for the clutch pedal. I didn't realize the nut on that adjustment end of it is actually very "deep" and I un-screwed it to the point that I thought I could get the spring tension down far enough to deal with getting the "clip" off the pedal linkage. I used a crow-bar and huge screw driver to finally get the linkage apart... Don't even try to imagine what I was doing under the dash with a crow bar.... LOL Anyway... I now know better, and getting that spring back in place shouldn't be 1/2 as difficult now. Although, I'm already scratching my head, wondering how I'm going get all this stuff back together when the time comes. But, for now, I have the Critter (M/Cylinder) out of the car and I've cleaned off most of the 67 years of much and mire! Taken some pictures and starting to evaluate if it can be re-built, or re-sleeved, or if it just needs to be re-placed with new. BTW... please take note of the fitting for the line that goes back to the brake booster assist. I'll enter another update once I've taken the innards out of it and can tell what my next step should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted December 7, 2019 Share Posted December 7, 2019 (edited) Good work on getting it out. I tend to think re-sleeving is better than buying a new modern reproduction, overseas master cylinder. If you live in the USA, it should be easy to get re-sleeved. You have lots of support here to help guide you if needed during reassembly. Edited December 7, 2019 by keithb7 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53 New Yorker Posted December 7, 2019 Author Share Posted December 7, 2019 Hello Keithb7. I'm thinking the same thing about re-sleeving the original unit, and that way, keeping the one that came with the car from the factory, with the car. I'm going to be looking for a place to do the re-sleeving. BTW... I used your 13/16ths open end wrench method of getting those "c" clips off. Do you know where I can get replacements for them? I must have done something "not quite right" because mine became bent and out of shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted December 7, 2019 Share Posted December 7, 2019 (edited) I have purchased those horse shoe clips (Brake "C" clip washers) off Ebay and from Napa. Also might try Robert's Mopar, AMS, Bernbaums, Vintage Power Wagon just to name a few. You could if you must use a "E" clip or external snap ring. I have plenty of used ones if you cannot find them. One or two hits with the hammer and the wrench positioned firmly and equally on the clip legs normally won't damage the clip. The same clips are also used on all eight wheel cylinder anchor bolts too. Edited December 7, 2019 by c49er (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53 New Yorker Posted December 8, 2019 Author Share Posted December 8, 2019 Thanks for the leads... Bernbaums has them listed in their catalog for 2.00 ea. But shipping is 13.00! Robert's shipping on 2 of them is 15.00! This is a part that can be put in an envelop and sent with a Forever Stamp on it!!!! What the heck!??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 Shipping has turned into a real killer in the instance you just posted...those sellers are real asses for not understanding your situation and will lose a possible new loyal customer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 PM me your address and I'll send you a couple. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyler Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 I went to a place that repairs farm equipment, tractors and such to get those c clips. they have all the bigger sizes. dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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