1946 Lincoln Continental Oil Bath Cleaner

[chris_kriner]

I finally tracked down the correct oil bath air cleaner for my 46 Lincoln.  Now my question is, how do I break it down? I can get the bottom can off (That holds the oil and has the oil fill line). Now the top canister that has the decal that says wash filter in Kerosene. How in the world do I open it?!!! I can get it to twist and shift back and forth a 1/4 inch and thats it! What Am I doing wrong? I was told it doesn't come apart????....Then why the decal that says wash filter in Kerosene? I can post pics if needed...  

[19tom40]

Do not try to take it apart, it is unnecessary. Immerse the top in kerosene or mineral spirits, swish it around to loosen the dirt and then let it drip dry on some newspapers. Let the newspapers dry in a safe environment before discarding them. Fill the bottom with oil and assemble the air cleaner.

[chris_kriner]

Kerosene Or Mineral Spirits will get all that old 70+ years of gunk out? You would think they would want you to replace that mesh at some point. 

[Bloo]

Oil bath air cleaners are generally in a lot better shape than you expect. The mesh is almost never screwed up.

 

It's not like the paper. The mesh just gets sticky with oil and stops any lightweight material that gets around the oil. The actual air filter element is the oil! The air has to change direction to get through, and the inertia of the particles sends them right into the oil. The mesh just catches any crud that got past.

 

I have taken some particularly nasty ones apart over the years (not for Lincoln, other makes). I only recall one time i had to find new mesh. it will PROBABLY clean up easy with kerosene or something. If it wont, try soaking the mesh in something aggressive, like MEK. It removes paint, just so you know.

 

What you will find, if it was neglected, is a bunch of pinholes in the bottom of the pan from rust. Water gets trapped in the oil. The oil floats on top of the water, and the water rusts out the bottom of the pan. This is the main reason we service these things and change the oil. It is unlikely that the oil would get so full of dirt that no more could get stuck in it.

 

When they are full of pinholes, I usually braze or silver solder them from the inside. If you are careful, no one will ever know.

 

 

Edited August 9, 2019 by Bloo (see edit history)

[chris_kriner]

Thanks Bloo!

I actually got it apart. But I still found that the internal can that contains the mesh is sealed....I mean really sealed up! Factory crimped edges, so there is no popping it open to take out mesh....Unless you physically open it up like a can opener, which im not doing! These are hard to find and not cheap when you do....Once I got it open, I see repairs were made or someone got aggressive with it. So they made a round flange and threaded it on the inside, then threaded the inner pipe/bar that makes it screw back on..(See pics)  I know that's not stock...but hey, once its back together you cant tell. Picked up the Kerosene today and will start the cleaning/soak tonight. That canister that holds the mesh was what I had such a hard time getting out! 

[chris_kriner]

All done

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

tube should be black to match...very nice job looks like new..

jb

[chris_kriner]

Mssr. Bwatoe,

 

Thank you and I didnt paint the tube. Thats still the cast aluminum. I just cleaned her up. I did a 600 grit wet sand to clean her up (almost like polished aluminum)