AussieTim

1935 Buick Series 40 Clutch Replacement

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Hello All,

My 1935 Buick needs a clutch replacement. 

It seems I have two options to get to the clutch:

1.  Remove the torque tube and rear axle assembly, then the transmission, or

2. Remove the engine.

Option 2 seems more straightforward and less problematic.

Do any of you have experience or advice on this ?

Thanks so much.

Tim

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Just pull the rear end.

 

To remove the motor you have to remove the entire front clip which will take a lot of frustrating hours to realign.

 

Where are you in Aus? 

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Removing the torque tube and axle assembly is relatively easy.  Some years you do not have to remove it, just move it back so you can remove the transmission.

The time the shop changed the clutch on my Buick the flat rate was 8 hours and they did it in 3.  The first time I did it it took me 4 hours and the second and last time it took me 3 1/2.  I quit street dragging then and had no more trouble.

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50jetback and Tinindian - Thank you both for your replies.  Sounds as though removing the rear end isn't as scary as it seems.  This is my first time with a torque tube driveline so it is a learning experience and I want to do the job myself.

 

50jetback - I am in the Sydney area.  It looks as though you are in WA ?

 

Regards, Tim

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Hi Tim,

just wondering where you are in SYD.  I am in the Canterbury area, I have a 34 series 40 with the gearbox and clutch out at the moment.

Ray

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Hi Ray,

Thanks for your post.  I am in the Ryde area.  I would really appreciate if there is anything I can learn from your experience removing the gearbox and clutch.

Regards, Tim

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Hi Tim,

 

Welcome to the forum. Are you a member of the Buick Club of NSW?

The Club has its monthly meetings in the Concord Area, third Thursday of the month

 

Be nice to meet another pre-war Buick owner!

 

Might I also suggest that you subscribe to the Australian pre-war Buick E-magazine. Simply go to the Buick Club of Queensland website and subscribe for free

 

Cheers

 

Paul White

Secretary - Buick Club of NSW

Edited by Paul White
extra information (see edit history)

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Hi Paul,

Thank you for your post. 

I am not a member of the NSW Buick Club.  I've just found the website which I will have a look at.

Thank you also for pointing me to the E-magazine. 

Regards, Tim

 

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Hello Gents,

 

The clutch replacement project continues albeit slowly.  Weeks of seemingly no progress are the result of decrudding, degreasing and repainting many, many parts that have 80+ years of grease and road dirt build-up.  Also the clutch pressure plate I bought was for the earlier carbon block release mechanism whereas my Buick has the later bearing mechanism.  I ended up building one good one out of two. Pics of the work-in-progress attached.

 

I have run into a problem with the realignment of the rear springs to the differential housing.  When I jack the springs up to the diff housing, the pin is not in alignment.  I've noticed that unlike with a Hotchkiss system, with the torque tube system both fore and aft shackles can pivot.  This seems to introduce a lot of variability in where the spring can locate.  I figure the fore shackle should pivot forwards and the aft shackle rearwards, however, this seems difficult to make happen, and even when I managed to do so, the alignment still can be 1/2" out.  

 

Is there a trick to this or something I am missing ?

 

Many thanks,

Tim

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This is how I solved the problem of aligning the rear leaf springs to the axle housing - I made a lever that bolted to the rear shackle.  This enabled me to adjust the spring position forwards or backwards while raising the spring to meet the axle housing.  The trolley jack obviously could also move forwards and backwards with the spring movement.  Tim

DSC_0878.jpg

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