Zimm63 Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Reading the earlier posts on this subject has been very useful. I now have both brake lights working, and determined that my cable is broken at the bottom mount. My car is early, so the cable cover is thin and delicate. I need to do more research as to possible replacements from other GM cars. Several have been mentioned, but I don't see any reference to anyone who has actually gotten one and made it work. I also need to find more information on possible repair options. My signals now work on both sides when I actuate the switch my hand. The are rapid however, even though I have test for good ground by adding a separate test lead on front and rear. The blink rate is 20-24 blinks in 10 seconds. That is significantly faster than other cars I have owned. Anybody have any thoughts on that? It also appears that I have disconnected the upper end of the cable while screwing around with it. I assume that the wheel has to come off to reconnect it? Finally, the idea of unbolting the column and letting it drop down a bit was helpful. Thanks Bernie. Looking for input from the experts. This problem has been solved before and needs to be solved again. Thanks Zimm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zimm63 Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 Updated report: Wheel is off. The end of the cable was clearly visible, but not its connection point. Any hints or ideas there? It occurs to me there should be some sort of lever to convert the up and down movement of the plate to back and forth movement of the cable. Has anyone ever pulled off the chrome piece at th top. According to the manual it takes a special tool and two slide hammers. No idea what the special tool looks like. Any clues or hints would be welcome here as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 The blink rate is determined by the load on the flasher. You have stated all signals work so your "problem" is the blink rate?? Try a different flasher. Personally, I like a quick flash rate because I feel it draws more attention from other drivers. The chrome cover is a very slight press fit. No need for a special tool if employing a little common sense and patience. With the steering wheel removed and the steering shaft nut placed back on to protect the shaft threads, take a large screwdriver and place it under the outside lip of the chrome cover. Use the steering shaft nut as a fulcrum for the screwdriver and gently pry up on the lip of the cover around the circumference of the chrome cover to encourage it up and off the column. Tom Mooney 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 I agree, it is probably the flasher causing the fast flash rate. How many turn signal bulbs per side does a 63 Riviera have? If it is three or more, you probably have a flasher that is for 2 bulbs per side. It could also just be defective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimtash Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) Last month I started my '63 after 2 years of sitting. None of the electrics worked except the headlights. Not the antenna, the rear lights, nothing. But as the car idled, eventually everything began to operate normally. The only issue left was the the rear turn signal light on one side. Oddly enough the brake light worked but the turn signal didn't. And I had the same rapid flasher as you. Changing out the bulb did nothing but cleaning up around the outside of the socket and insuring it got good ground did. The sockets in these cars are the ground. Edited January 1, 2018 by jimtash (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zimm63 Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 Well, this just gets better and better. In addition to the bottom of the cable being broken, I managed to break the lever that actuates the upper end of the cable. Any known source for the upper lever? I am thinking it should be fairly common across the Saginaw columns, but no idea where to look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 11 hours ago, Zimm63 said: Updated report: Wheel is off. The end of the cable was clearly visible, but not its connection point. Any hints or ideas there? It occurs to me there should be some sort of lever to convert the up and down movement of the plate to back and forth movement of the cable. Has anyone ever pulled off the chrome piece at th top. According to the manual it takes a special tool and two slide hammers. No idea what the special tool looks like. Any clues or hints would be welcome here as well I have removed the collar/sleeve with a basic gear puller setup to expand out inside the sleeve, to catch on the inside lip of the collar. Look in the shop manual to see where that special tool engages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 2 hours ago, Zimm63 said: Well, this just gets better and better. In addition to the bottom of the cable being broken, I managed to break the lever that actuates the upper end of the cable. Any known source for the upper lever? I am thinking it should be fairly common across the Saginaw columns, but no idea where to look. Plan to get a used one out out of a donor car. I might have one in my parts stash, but can't get to it for a few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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