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Foaming radiator *SOLVED*


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On 10/20/2017 at 9:47 PM, Bloo said:

Has anyone tried Propylene Glycol in a system like this? (Sierra, etc...)

I'm looking for a foaming solution and just came across this discussion. I contacted Evans, they use propylene glycol without water for racing and high performance engines. They said their antifreeze would not stop the foaming issues. They said they had researched the cause of the foaming and that they believed it was the packing on the water pump of non pressurized systems that was allowing air in. The grease cup was not mentioned. 

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8 hours ago, Steve29 said:

packing on the water pump of non pressurized systems that was allowing air in

How would it do that? It would have to be at a pressure lower than air pressure in the pump? I am struggling to believe that. It might mean, perhaps, you have a large clearance at the rear bush or bearing so the low pressure at the water inlet pulls air in past the gland. This would also mean that water would pour out through the gland when you shut the engine down. I find the air-through-gland theory unconvincing.

 

Is there cavitation at the impeller?

 

The impeller must create a low pressure area to bring in more water. Is it possible there is a direct connection between that area (around the water inlet into the pump) and the oil or grease feed to the back bush or bearing? If so, there would have to be no oil or grease in there so air can get through the oil or grease "reservoir" if air were coming in through there.

 

Another alternative is a tiny leak in the head gasket that seals at clamping pressure but not at combustion pressure.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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  • 3 months later...

I think this topic is interesting because I just developed a huge foaming problem on my 1918 Buick, and like the OP I used Evaporust on my water jacket to remove rust. I had no foaming before I used the Evaporust. I went all out and drained the system and added 3.5 gallons of evaporust, full strength, cost a lot of money but I really wanted all the rust out of my water jacket. I started the car several times when it was in, but the foaming was unbelievable so I couldn't run it more than 60 seconds. After 2 days I drained it out, and thick black solution came out, that was all the rust, but now even after spending most of a day rinsing it out, I still have foaming when I run the engine. Even after 5 complete rinses, it still foams, but each time I rinse, the foaming problem is less. I figure Evaporust, even just a little bit, must be a cause of foaming. I'm guessing I might have to rinse 5 more times to get the last of the Evaporust out.

 

I'm not buying the water pump or head gasket theories. There is a big difference between air getting into the system and foam. Air and water is just air and water. The air goes in and bubbles out. But foam is foam. I'm talking like, imagine if somebody added Dawn dish detergent to the radiator. That's the sort of mess I have with this Evaporust. Just foams like crazy. Adding air won't make it foam like this. 

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I can't believe that I forgot to post what I found. It turned out that the spring in my thermostat had rusted in two. It was left in a position that was blocking much of the passage of coolant. I hadn't suspected the thermostat because I could look into the radiator and see the coolant circulating. When I removed the thermostat the problem went away. I bought a replacement thermostat and it hasn't foamed since. Now I have developed a new problem with my differential and I am going to have to make a new post. 

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On ‎11‎/‎7‎/‎2017 at 7:36 AM, Stude Light said:

Distilled is best when mixing with glycol as it minimizes any impurities.  RO is okay too. If you are using just water without any glycol, I would go with bottled drinking water and use an anti-corrosion additive like No-Rosion (what I use).

I will correct myself.  Reverse Osmosis water is best.  Distilled can contain volatile organics .

Scott 

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