1917 d45 first drive.

[Bob Engle]

I finally got the differential and brakes back in the car.  I know the brakes are not adjusted properly yet, but I wanted to get used to them.  The car started up readily, but began to overflow coolant as soon as the car warmed a bit.  I drove out of the garage and started up the driveway,  but as soon as I attempted  to shift into second, all gears clashed.  I had to stop, shut off the engine and then I could shift into low but on the up shift, I ended in neutral again and could not get into gear with out shutting off the engine.  The next try I started out in second, but could not get into 3rd.  I was able to get into low this time  without shutting off the engine. Low and reverse worked fine to get the car turned into the garage.  The engine seems to be running hot, but I haven't got a feel for the advance and column throttle yet.  

 

Is my problem the gear brake in the transmission not stopping the gears from spinning?  Is it common for the radiator to overflow?  I haven't checked the radiator flow rate yet. I may have a plugged up core.  I drained it once to replace the freeze plug, and I only added water on fill, no antifreeze.  I may have to remove the radiator hoses and check the flow rate.

 

Any help would be great.  The clock is ticking for being ready for Hershey.

 

Bob

[ROD W]

Bob 

As you have to stop the engine to change gears,   it sounds like the clutch isn,t releasing.  I don,t know if the multi disc clutch was used in 1917,  but if oil gets on the plates,  they tend to stick.

[Larry Schramm]

I believe that you car has a cone clutch.  My '17 D35 has a cone clutch. 

 

Sounds like your clutch might not be completely releasing.  You need to get under the car and look CLOSELY at the condition of the leather on the clutch and see if any of the leather has come detached from the clutch.  That sounds like it could be the problem. 

 

The bubbling of the radiator is not normal. Could be junk in the radiator or the engine block.

[Mark Shaw]

See if you can shift into all gears while stopped without using the clutch.  Then, repeat using the clutch to see if there is a difference to indicate if the clutch is working.  If the clutch is working, you probably need to double clutch while up shifting.  Earlier this week, I learned how to shift my 1912 Model 34 Roadster from another HCCA member.  After trying double clutching, installing a clutch brake, etc....  He said an old timer showed him how to shift his 1912 car.  It requires no double clutching; in this case, just up-shifting quickly does the trick.  I drove the car Sunday - Wednesday up and down mountains in Idaho with no shifting issues.... 

 

Before you pull the radiator, add enough water to just cover the core to see if you may be overfilling.

[Brian_Heil]

The viscosity weight of the lube in the transmission can also be a factor.

 

Bought my Buick years ago and it shifted fine.  First thing I did was change all the fluids.  New 90w140 in the trans and I could no longer shift to save my sole without clashing gears.  New 220w and all was good with the world.

 

Snyder's (Ford T and A Supplier) has a product called M-533  this is re-packaged Chevron Meropa 220w.  Good product, good weight, good price and easy to order.  You can look up the Meropa specs online.

[raydurr]

Brian is right. My 29 will not shift correctly with modern lubes. The heavier the better my tranny likes it.

[Brian_Heil]

I run the M-533 in the rear end also.  Good stuff.

[Bob Engle]

Thanks for your replies.  radiator problem seems fine.  It runs at 140 degrees F and shows 130 at the bottom of the core.  I switched from 160 W trans fluid to 90 W.  The clutch is releasing. I've had the coverplate off and could spin the clutch with the pedal 1/2 way depressed.  How do I apply the neats foot oil?  I don't see any place to get to the clutch leather.  

 

I sprayed the clutch brake with brake clean.  This seemed to help the shifting.  I am able to get through the gears.  low to second is the tough one.  It's a long throw across neutral.  double clutching did not help.  Double clutching to third works well.  On level ground, It's just as easy to pull out in second  rather than clash gears.  Experience will help.  The throw out  bearing appears to be very sloppy.  I suspect that  I will have to pull the transmission after Hershey and put in a new bearing.  

 

The differential is  throwing the  Mepro  2200 out the slot for the  pinion gear adjustment.  I don't know if this  typical.  

 

Brakes are working better than I anticipated.  More adjustment is still needed, but they are breaking in well.  

 

I'm still learning the sound of this engine and what is normal.  The spark advance does not seem to do much, but I don't want to fool too much with it now.  It starts, runs and idles nice after warming up.  The heat control is locked up  but it runs well without it.  I haven't touched the carb  adjustments and don't plan to to anything now.  

 

Great fun learning and driving this car.  I got called a Beverly Hills hillbilly  as I drove  past someone today.  Best compliment I've had in years.

 

Bob

[Mark Shaw]

Try starting in first for only ten feet before shifting into second....