1956 Buick Rack and Pinion

[ghaskett]

Has anyone installed R&P on their 56 Buick, keeping original front clip and king pin set up?

[Bloo]

The trouble is, the outer and the inner tierod ends have to be at the correct points in space for it to work properly and not royally screw up the handling. That may or may not be physically possible. Look under there and see if the rack would have to go through the frame, the engine, or something else that cant move.

 

Assuming that isn't a problem, because of the necessary locations of the inner tierod ends, the rack has to be the exact correct width for the application. This means that in 99% of all cases, you cant just use something salvaged from a car.

 

There are companies now that will custom-make a rack to your specification.

 

http://www.unisteer.com/custom-built-rack-pinions/search-by-product/custom-built-items.html

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0013

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0014

 

What are you trying to acomplish? Have you taken all the slop out of the original stuff? It might be pretty good. Better shocks and some swaybars might do more to improve steering response that a different steering system.

 

I don't think rack and pinion would be noticeably better on a big car like that. If you are trying to improve the steering system you might look into a Saginaw variable-ratio power steering box. It would probably be easier to adapt than a rack.

Edited September 4, 2017 by Bloo
, (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

Have to be careful of the rack placement or "bump steer" comes to visit and STAY.  Not to mention the modifications to the bottom of the steering column.  A r&p gear might improve steering precision, but NOT handling.  Might even make it a little "twitchy".  Money might be better spent with new rubber bushings in all of the suspension pieces, front and rear.  Plus HD shocks and such.  Until Borgeson comes out with a complete kit (brackets and adapters, so fabrication isn't needed) to use a modern steering gear, probably better to tweak the current equipment, IF it isn't worn too much.  See the thread by Vicky Blue.

 

NTX5467

[Beemon]

2 hours ago, Bloo said:

The trouble is, the outer and the inner tierod ends have to be at the correct points in space for it to work properly and not royally screw up the handling. That may or may not be physically possible. Look under there and see if the rack would have to go through the frame, the engine, or something else that cant move.

 

The drag link takes up considerable amount of space under the oil pan, a rack and pinion setup would fit just fin. I think if you had the right bracket, you could just bolt it up to where the box and idler arm bolt to the frame. The real issue is the steering knuckle at the king pin. If I recall correctly, they have to be perpendicular to the spindle, whereas the OEM is angled back slightly. Or it could be the other way around, I don't remember. It's been a while since I've researched this subject, but I've heard others have done it by modifying a kit for the Tri-5 Chevy.

If your steering box is leaking, you can get it re-sealed. If it's got a lot of play in it, good luck. Don't fall victim to business out there that say they can rebuild it. They will rob you blind and only install a seal kit. Ask me how I know. I wouldn't bother with a rebuild unless they can manufacture new rack and pinion gears for the original steering box. Another crucial part to rebuild is setting the preload of the worm gears. I had sent mine out because it was leaking and the steering was loose. Came back leak free, but still had a lot of play. Another member here put a Tri-5 box in, and had success with the application. Others I think have used a Jeep box as a replacement. Whichever route you go, you will have to get custom lines made. Might be best to replace the pump with a modern one to fit the steering unit you go with, for ease of installation.

 

Good luck, and post updates whichever way you go.

[ghaskett]

Thanks a lot for the info. I have manual steering in my '56 and it handles just fine. The issue is that I have a 401 in her and the header is right up to the steering box..very little clearance. In fact, we had to shove the engine sideways to get clearance...and we used various 364-425 manifolds in the process.
I would like to go with PS, but the issue, again, is steering box clearance. Ideally, finding a smaller displacement box that didn't require an astrophysicist to install would be great. 
Saturday, at a car show near Tacoma, WA, I saw a 401 powered  '41 Buick with R&P ...with the "STOCK" front clip and suspension system. This rig has been driven all over the country and no complaints. Seeing that led to my AACA inquiry. I have an appointment with the guys who put the R&P in the '41 and anything I can learn, I'll pass along.
So, the gist is again, getting a R&P installed(maybe) or finding a worthwhile PS box that will give ample exhaust manifold clearance.

[Beemon]

Here's the PDF I was looking for. It basically outlines you need custom steering knuckles made or else you won't get the right geometry for this type of setup. You could easily make your own based off the originals with a laser cutter or CNC machine, but they are necessary to not bind.

[ghaskett]

Thanks for the PDF

[NTX5467]

Not sure, but some street rod steering columns now have electric power steering. Not sure how those might adapt to your existing equipment. I always did like the way the sun reflected off of those chrome steering wheel spokes on the '56s!

 

NTX5467

[Beemon]

7 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

 I always did like the way the sun reflected off of those chrome steering wheel spokes on the '56s!

 

Pretty neat until it hits you just right!