jonlabree Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 I am going to replace all of my Brake lines this winter and i need some info. What size is the brake line and do I need any special fittings? Can some one give me a list of fitting that I will need? Thanks to all. Jon.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 RIGHT HERE, BUDDY NEVER RUST Bends and flares very easily Includes all fittings Gravel guard armor included Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 I cannot tell you off hand the size of the lines but if you are planning on replacing the lines with bulk line and make your own bends then I would simply cut off a portion of the line and take it to the auto parts store. Cut off the line less than an inch from the fittings and then you can use a socket to remove the fitting and not have to worry about the tubing wrench slipping. After removing the fitting, clean them up a little and reuse them. Over the years I have noticed that some of the fitting are not a size readily available at auto parts stores so I reuse mine and with a double flaring tool you can redo the whole car pretty cheaply. If you want I can send you some pieces of line so you will have them ahead of time and also i apologize for forgetting to get back to you about the fenders. Will do so later today. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 Thanks, 89reddarkgray. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Be aware many, if not all, of the brake lines may be bubble flares. Way easier to make vs a double flare. I believe the nuts are a light green color, at least the ones I used. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/Bubble-Flare-Metric-Thread-276010/dp/B004QS2ZDW 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 What's so difficult about making bubble flares? Besides, you make the flare in one operation instead of two. I don't believe you can use a double flare in lieu of a bubble. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 43 minutes ago, harry yarnell said: What's so difficult about making bubble flares? Besides, you make the flare in one operation instead of two. I don't believe you can use a double flare in lieu of a bubble. I don't know if that is directed at my post but I 100% agree. Perhaps I should have capitalized "VS" in the statement "Way easier to make VS a double flare". The bubble flare is very easy and can even be done in place under the car, which I have done. Yes, the fittings are not interchangeable, although the brake line diameter is standard 3/16". 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Well, then you get THIS TOOL. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 9 hours ago, harry yarnell said: What's so difficult about making bubble flares? If you can watch a few videos, and practice on some scrap line- it's very easy to do Video #1 Video #2 Video #3 Video #4 Video #5 Video #6 Video #7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 Thanks for all of the video's they really do help. Do you know if you can replace the line that goes over the gas tank can be replace without dropping the tank? Jon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 50 minutes ago, 63viking said: Thanks for all of the video's they really do help Then click the "THANKS" button. Every click goes towards the Members' point score rating. (Maybe you didn't know that?) 53 minutes ago, 63viking said: Do you know if you can replace the line that goes over the gas tank can be replace without dropping the tank? You can route the line wherever you wish. NiCop will never rust, and the armor in the kit is used for where it could get damaged from road debris or vibration. Run the armored line along the rear cradle, attach it with THESE and/or THESE (using THESE). Take a look at the Factory line; the BS steel armor actually speeds up corrosion, by trapping it against the line! The stainless steel armored line would look superb, contrasted against a gloss black or silver undercarriage. Running an unprotected steel brake line above the fuel tank- is about as stupid, cheap, and lazy- as not having an access plate for the fuel pump. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 Man you said a mouthful there. Also the rear brake set-up in it's stock caliper. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 I know on my '89 that I replaced all of the rear lines with the fuel tank in place, with one caveat. I removed all of the rusting line from the calipers forward to about the drivers seat area. I did the steel fuel lines at that time as well. In any case, I relocated the rear proportioning valve to a more accessible location near the front center of the rear suspension cross member. The connections were the same as stock, just in an easier location to plumb. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 23 hours ago, 2seater said: the fittings are not interchangeable, although the brake line diameter is standard 3/16". Then you could buy THESE. The drawback with them is later removal- dissimilar metal corrosion (ss/cast iron caliper). If you do end up needing "bubble flares" then get THIS KIT and the seperate ARMOR (You must have to protect) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 1 of my projects next year- will be this brake line stuff, and fuel lines (nylon) replacement, along with filter relocation (side of air box). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Ya know, the nylon fuel lines are a great idea; they don't rust. However the lawn rats love to gnaw on them creating holes. Ya can't win. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 50 minutes ago, harry yarnell said: Ya know, the nylon fuel lines are a great idea; they don't rust. However the lawn rats love to gnaw on them creating holes. Ya can't win Maybe wrap stuff in THIS? It could at least be worth trying? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 (edited) A very concise guide to all this mumbojumbo is HERE. And a longer, more in depth tutorial is HERE Edited August 30, 2017 by 89RedDarkGrey (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptt Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) On 8/30/2017 at 4:10 PM, 89RedDarkGrey said: Then click the "THANKS" button. Every click goes towards the Members' point score rating. (Maybe you didn't know that?) You can route the line wherever you wish. NiCop will never rust, and the armor in the kit is used for where it could get damaged from road debris or vibration. Run the armored line along the rear cradle, attach it with THESE and/or THESE (using THESE). Take a look at the Factory line; the BS steel armor actually speeds up corrosion, by trapping it against the line! The stainless steel armored line would look superb, contrasted against a gloss black or silver undercarriage. Running an unprotected steel brake line above the fuel tank- is about as stupid, cheap, and lazy- as not having an access plate for the fuel pump. I believe the only vehicle I have that had an "access plate"for the intank fuel pump was an AUSTRALIAN FORD manufactured 1994 CAPRI that was imported under the MERCURY badge. I agree its sooooo stupid that it isn't offered more widely. Edited September 6, 2017 by ptt liked it........ (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 In 2006- my '88 Nissan Pulsar NX was easy- to access. Two 10mm bolts for bottom of rear seat, remove plastic deck, four screws for access plate, six for pump unit, 2 lines, 1 plug. It would have been a 20 minute job. All 6 pump bolts snapped. Both metal lines rotted. The pressure line had also cracked at the top of the unit, and it was a 1-piece molded design. No separate pump like ours- entire unit was $300. Had to siphon 1/2 tank gas out, wipe dry, HOT water-soapy rag, rinse, wipe dry. Large rag in tank, drill out bolts. Waited 8 days for ordered pump, had to walk 3 miles to & from work, for 4 of those days. Installed no problem. 1 year later- an escaped 91 year old Nursing Home patient totaled it while it was still in my own driveway. Video of me installing a clutch in this car in 2005 is on my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qs5j0zyAo5c That was a good little money pit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Cadillacs of the late '90s into the 2000 have access panels in the trunk to R&R the pump. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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