kgreen Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Looking for data on bolt and body mounting pad requirements. Note, the convertible used reinforced rubber, which is different that the hardtop cars. My project is missing most of the body mounting pads and the bolts. Bolts and pads that are in place are incorrect. The bolts are a 7/16 x 14. The lengths may vary; does anyone have bolt lengths? What grade are these bolts? What is their finish: galvanized, phosphate, painted? The pads for the convertible body are reinforced rubber. What is the correct thickness. Steel shims would have been used for body alignment. What is the configuration of the mount? From the top, bolt head, flat washer, body, reinforced rubber, shim as required, frame, reinforced rubber, flat washer, lock washer, nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 They must not have heard ya Ken, here, I'll bring it back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 You mite half ta call Doug and/or Nate, the Seybold guys in Ohio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 I don't know if it helps because my car is a '37 hardtop, but the rubber pads sat on top of the frame only. There was not a second pad under the frame rail. Under there was a special "D" shaped flat washer (A flat washer with one side cut as to fit in the tight spot under the frame next to the side rail) So my mounting configuration was: Bolt head, thick flat washer, body, rubber body mount pad, (shim if required), frame, special "D" shaped flat washer, lock washer, nut. In the trunk, where bolt #6 comes through (the long bolt) there was not a nut, but rather a special rectangular metal block tapped to accept the nut. In the front of the car, bolts #1, (which actually reside in the engine compartment) are not bolts at all but studs that screw down into the tapped holes in the frame. Hope it helps Gary 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) I got a chance to measure the body bolts today. Please remember, these are for my 1937 Model 48 (not your '40) but maybe it'll get you going in the right direction: There are 14 bolts in total. 7 down each side, starting with #1 in the engine bay (that is actually a stud): #1 Stud came out as a unit. The nut completely rusted onto the stud. You can see the rubber mounting pad and this one has a fibre shim under the rubber. The Stud overall length is 2 1/4". The long side goes into the frame, the body is secured with a flat washer, lock washer and a nut. All other body bolts EXCEPT #6!! are this configuration. They are all 1 5/8" measured under the head, the flat washer above the body, the "D" washer, lock washer and nut all under the frame. This is how every body bolt (EXCEPT #6) were secured. I only had one rubber pad that sat atop the frame. All rubber pads are 3/8" thick. The Number 6 bolt is the LONG ONE. It does not come down from the top, but pushes up from the frame to the forward part of the trunk. Look close into that rust mess and you'll see an oblong piece of metal that is threaded to accept the #6 bolt as it comes up from the frame. Here is the #6 bolt all cleaned up and it's parts. It does not use a standard nut, but utilizes those tapped metal bars that fit into the floor of the trunk. Another view of the #6 setup. When the body was lifted, you can see some of the rubber mounts stuck to the frame. Those are the #6 above the rear axle. Those rubber pads are oblong shaped. Others are square. There is a spot for each one. That's the only position of the rubber mounts on my chassis. ALL set atop the frame. I did not have any rubber under the frame. It was just metal - to - metal under there. ** Notice: I paint all my nuts and bolts and related hardware black so I can hopefully avoid all the rust. I have been informed that Buick actually left the bolts in their raw state, and can be coated with a clear coating to maintain the original look. Hope it helps! Gary Edited June 29, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenz38 Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Gary.. Great Job ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Gary, yes, thanks. The '40 has some variation but you cleared up a good bit of my mystery. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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