Driver side power window

[BGerrells]

Hiya new to the forums. I have a 1988 model  and Sunday the Power window stopped working. The motor works, but it gets to a certain point about 35% up and a loud grinding sound starts, then when I lower it, it gets to about 2% closed and makes the same grinding sound. I took the panel off and can look down and see a very shiny dear with another smaller gear. It looks like it may have tooth issues or something like that. Any tips on replacing those gears?

 

Bryan

[Jim]

Your regulator has most likely failed.

I have good motor/regulators available.

 

[NCReatta]

Motors and regulators are two different parts. Your issue sounds like a bad motor problem, not a regulator. New motors can be had from NAPA or similar for under $50. 

 

I've only sold two regulators ever. The regulators are not available new, but rarely fail. 

[KDirk]

 

Tend to agree with Marck here. It would be very unusual to damage a regulator save for a side impact that caved in the door. The motors are a fairly common failure item at the age of these cars. They can be had for a reasonable cost new, I don't suggest using used ones unless you are really tight on funds, as you never know how long you'll get from a used one. Replacement isn't terrible if you are comfortable doing your own work but requires removal of the interior door panel, window glass (including up-stop limiters to make removal easier) and drilling or grinding off several quarter inch heavy duty rivets to get the regulator out with the motor.

 

The motor can not be replaced in-situ as it is riveted to the regulator. Those rivets also need to be drilled out, but before removal of the motor, the quadrant gear on the regulator must be locked in place to maintain spring tension (there is a heavy clock spring for window lift assist). The new motor gets mounted to the regulator (using screws provided in motor kit is easiest but can be riveted).

 

Finally, the regulator and run channel need to be reinstalled (and you need a 1/4" heavy duty rivet gun and large head rivets, don't use bolts and lock nuts to mount it to the door shell), followed by hooking up wiring, installing glass and door trim panel. For someone who has done it before and is proficient, a half day job best case, as there is lots if disassembly and reassembly.

 

The only special tools needed are the rivet gun and rivets, though Harbor Freight does sell these (yeah, I know, Harbor Freight, nuff said). I'd say this is not a DIY project for someone not already fairly well versed in car repairs given how much needs to be taken apart and put back on, and you definitely want to consult the factory service manual on this.

 

The regulator is somewhat dangerous as a pinch/crush hazard (watch your extremities) with the spring tension present on the quadrant gear, and if you let it fly by failing to lock it in place before motor removal, you will have a challenge getting it back together correctly. And one other warning, be careful removing the glass. If you have tint on your side windows, it is very easy to scratch the tint film getting it out if you don't know the tricks to removing the side windows.

 

[drtidmore]

I replaced both of the motor assemblies on my 89 several years ago.  I purchased my motors from my local FLAPS which offered a lifetime warranty and the cost was very reasonable as well.  As others have stated, it is a bit of PITA and care needs to be taken to SECURE the regulator arm as shown in 89RedDarkGrey's video.  I actually drilled a hole in the swing arm of the regulator such that I could pass a bolt thru the regulator housing thru the hole and then put a nut on it just for sanity.  Using several HEAVY DUTY zip ties as in 89RedDarkGrey's video is likely just as secure and easier.    As for securing the glass, I used duct tape along the bottom of the glass (i.e. lapping the glass and the rubber wiper that rides against the glass) as well as another strip up the front channel, but again, no need to remove the glass, just make sure it is securely held in the closed position.  Note the trick of using an adhesive to attach the nuts on the back side of the rebuild assembly as that makes the re-installation far easier.  If you follow 89RedDarkGrey's video, you should not have any problems or overlook any small detail that will come back to haunt.  

 

BTW, this would be an EXCELLENT time to grease up all the moving parts of the door lock system with spray lithium grease.  If your locks are stiff, I would use a penetrating lube first to get them freed up and then follow up with the lithium.  Don't over look the parts that move over on the door latch itself.  With the window regulator out and the glass up, this job is much easier to perform.

Edited March 22, 2017 by drtidmore (see edit history)

[BGerrells]

Thanks so much. I have a little experience working on cars. I've already removed the door panel, and most of the window fittings. I'm really concerned about securing the regulator arm as mentioned above. I'll post pictures but that video is super helpful.

[KDirk]

I'll state that while this can be done without removing glass, and using zip ties to secure the regulator, I err on the side of safety rather than convenience. Cut corners lead to cut fingers...or worse. However you do it, be careful and pay close attention at all times. The regulator exerts enough force (if not restrained) to cause serious injury. And if the tape gives way and the glass falls during or after removal of the regulator, at best you may damage the window, at worst you end up in the ER.

 

[BGerrells]

On 3/21/2017 at 11:38 AM, Jim said:

Your regulator has most likely failed.

I have good motor/regulators available.

 

I've sent payment. Thanks again for the offer.

 

Bryan

[Guest HuevosRanchero]

must be something in the air, my driver side has started to move chaotically up or down just a few mm at a time so I'm the motor is starting to fail. .Gonna test the switch first just to be sure. 

[Jim]

Another problem I have seen with the regulators is sometimes the wheels on the regulator get tight. This will not cause the window to go only partially and then make noise but it will slow down the operation of the window. It is always a good idea to clean and grease the tracks when doing any work in there but if you have the regulator out make sure the wheels turn freely.

The wheels are a plastic wheel that turns on a steel ball. If they are tight I have found a good way to loosen them up is to heat the opposite side of the wheel with a propane torch and keep monitoring the plastic wheel to see when it loosens up. The minute the ball gets hot enough to melt a little bit of the inside of the wheel, and the wheel turns easier, immediately pour some water on the wheel and metal piece so the hot ball stops melting the wheel.

I would heat the metal for a few seconds and then pull the torch away and see if the wheel turns easier. If not I continue applying heat in few second intervals until the wheel turns easier and then immediately douse the wheel and metal with water.

Edited March 24, 2017 by Jim (see edit history)

[KDirk]

Good advice from Jim regarding the rollers. I noted the same issue on one of mine, but was not too bad and lubrication seems to have solved it.

[BGerrells]

Oh wow I should of read this yesterday!!!!!

I put mine back in yesterday, I was surprised how simple it was to remove and install. The window goes up and down, but sometimes I have to help it along. I figured its the wheels in the track that may need adjustment. I'll try the above tips. It took longer to find a 1/4 inch Rivet gun then it did to remove the old and replace the new one form Jim.

[kizerc]

On 3/22/2017 at 7:55 AM, drtidmore said:

I replaced both of the motor assemblies on my 89 several years ago.  I purchased my motors from my local FLAPS which offered a lifetime warranty and the cost was very reasonable as well.  As others have stated, it is a bit of PITA and care needs to be taken to SECURE the regulator arm as shown in 89RedDarkGrey's video.  I actually drilled a hole in the swing arm of the regulator such that I could pass a bolt thru the regulator housing thru the hole and then put a nut on it just for sanity.  Using several HEAVY DUTY zip ties as in 89RedDarkGrey's video is likely just as secure and easier.    As for securing the glass, I used duct tape along the bottom of the glass (i.e. lapping the glass and the rubber wiper that rides against the glass) as well as another strip up the front channel, but again, no need to remove the glass, just make sure it is securely held in the closed position.  Note the trick of using an adhesive to attach the nuts on the back side of the rebuild assembly as that makes the re-installation far easier.  If you follow 89RedDarkGrey's video, you should not have any problems or overlook any small detail that will come back to haunt.  

 

BTW, this would be an EXCELLENT time to grease up all the moving parts of the door lock system with spray lithium grease.  If your locks are stiff, I would use a penetrating lube first to get them freed up and then follow up with the lithium.  Don't over look the parts that move over on the door latch itself.  With the window regulator out and the glass up, this job is much easier to perform.

@drtidmore where can I find89RedDarkGrey's video ? I looked around and couldn't find anything.

[Barney Eaton]

There is one other item not mentioned. 

At the bottom front of the window assembly,  there is a plastic guide that snaps into the vertical window channel.  

If the guide has popped out of the guide or if the guide is broken you can have issues usually as it get to the top. 

 

Found an actual picture of the guide....

Edited November 6, 2023 by Barney Eaton (see edit history)