64 Riviera Brake Pedal Pin

[CTX-SLPR]

Howdy,

 

Does anyone know if/how the booster pushrod pin comes out of the pedal?  It looks like it will either unscrew off of the pedal or press out of the bore.  Quickly trying to turn the pin with something through the retainer clip hole or with plyers didn't work nor did hitting it with a hammer trying to drive it into a socket.

 

Any help before the drill and/or grinder comes out?

 

Thanks

[Jim Cannon]

Why do you want to remove it?

 

Seems kind of extreme.

 

I'm pretty sure it is not intended to be removed.

 

 

[CTX-SLPR]

With my restromod I'm changing out the brakes and have put a Hydroboost system on the car since I have a 4.1L Turbo6 in there too.  The problem is the brake pushrod to the booster on the Riviera is REALLY short compared to most other boosters and I've had a very difficult time getting the hydraulic booster to work right (it tends to jam with brakes full on) with a 1.5in long pushrod.  I'm trying to put more compliance into the system by putting a spherical bearing on the pedal and making a 4in longer pushrod to straighten out the angles during travel.  The pedal pin is 7/16in, short, and doesn't have a positive retention feature I can get at anymore after putting that bearing over it so I'm worried about it popping off.  I'd like to put a 3/8in bolt in there so I can use a 3/8in rod end which matches the available threaded pushrods for the hydroboost system (http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=54). 

 

I was hoping to be able to knock, press, or unscrew it off of the pedal vs. drill or grind it off.  Looks like my best bet is to grind the back side off and knock it out with a hammer and punch.  I didn't check what looks like the hole in the pedal itself but it looked close to 1/2in so I have some steel material to reduce a 1/2in hole to 3/8in and let me just run a bolt through it.  I also want to change the pedal ratio (very very low at 2.5:1 vs. most power systems are in the 4-6:1 range) but there is only so much hole in the firewall to put the pushrod through and I'm not chopping that bit up.

[lrlforfun]

OK CTX: Stop by the house and I'll show you the assembly I have removed from the car.  Still interested in those interior components too!   Thanks, Mitch.

[RivNut]

Have you considered replacing the entire brake pedal arm with one that might have all the correct connections and ratios?

[CTX-SLPR]

2 hours ago, RivNut said:

Have you considered replacing the entire brake pedal arm with one that might have all the correct connections and ratios?

Ed,

 

That would be a bit of a challenge as I'd need to get the pedal length down to around 12in and that would move the pedal pivot down 2in to keep the pushrod going through the existing hole in the firewall.  Moving the pin up the pedal would require clearancing the firewall for the rod which I'd rather avoid since the dash side is still intact with all the insulation and such in place.  I'll take a look at the layout with the pin 2in up the pedal and see what that does for master cylinder and booster interference with the dash bits, firewall, and washer reservoir.  Using a new pedal would be pretty hard with the curve the pedal takes going around the steering column.

3 hours ago, lrlforfun said:

OK CTX: Stop by the house and I'll show you the assembly I have removed from the car.  Still interested in those interior components too!   Thanks, Mitch.

Mitch,

 

Definitely need to connect with your soon.  I need some parts and would be interested in swapping some.  Did you see the '63 parts car up in Danville?  If the metal is good (mainly the floors) I might be interested I buying it and picking the stuff I need off of it and then bartering the rest to you if you'd be interested.

Edited November 27, 2016 by CTX-SLPR (see edit history)

[lrlforfun]

OK CTX: Let me know when you want to hook up. I'm always around.  The green 63 has been for sale for a long time.    Mitch

[CTX-SLPR]

Mitch,

 

I'll see my schedule over the coming few weeks, might need to be a Sunday afternoon.

 

It looks like the pedal bracket can come out of the car by pulling the two upper booster bolts (pulled), two bespoke nuts from the engine bay side, and the two steering column bolts out.  Anyone know any better?

 

Looking at the bracket  it certainly looks like I can lower the pedal at least 2.5in safely which will give me a 3.8:1 ratio vs. the 2.5:1 ratio I have now.  I'll have to cut the housing off of the pedal, slice the pedal down and reweld it to the housing to the pedal arm.  With this much work into the pedal I'm not really concerned about cutting the pushrod pin out of it anymore...  Hopefully I do this without dorking it up and needing another pedal.

 

Thanks

[Guest Riviera Swede]

Hi

The pin is welded in the pedal. You must remove the whole pedal. and it's good to have a angle screwdriver and a 1/2'' ratchet wrench. There is very tight behind the instrument panel.

 

Riviera regards from Sweden 

Edited November 29, 2016 by Riviera Swede
correction (see edit history)

[CTX-SLPR]

I got the pedal bracket out last night after having to shock it into movement with a hammer.  Bracket looks like it will be fine with moving the pedal pivot point down 2.5in and if I mangle the tube getting it out of the current weld it's at least a common piece of 7/8in OD, 1/8in wall tube.  Pictures soon.

[CTX-SLPR]

Well tried to get some pictures of the planned mods but they wouldn't focus.  So here's the stock stuff.

 

The pedal will start in the stock location but will have to swing off of a pivot point that is about an inch closer to the driver than before so the pedal will want to "tuck under" more.  I'm debating cutting 2.5in out of the main pedal arm and dropping the pivot point straight down to keep the motion closer to stock.  Also means I can return that 7/8in hole saw.

 

Here's part of the problem I'm trying to fix.  The booster pushrod is WAY too short and so I'm going to space it out another few inches.

[CTX-SLPR]

So Tuesday night I went out and machined up the pieces of the brake booster mount out of 1.5x1.5x0.060in aluminum 'L' channel.  I decided to put the holes for the booster mounting bolts in the middle of the profile and as such... the nut in the center of the hydroboost that holds the booster to the mounting plate hit the channel no matter which way I did it.  Wanting to mount it more like an I-beam I clamped a pair back up in the mill and used a 5/16in ball nose end mill to mill a relief in the bracket to clear the nut.  A few tries and I had the right slight and the ball nose made a very nice looking radius to the cut.  Got to use those more often.

I managed to bolt the brackets on the car and on the booster and then hold them apart and measure the gap so I could size the threaded pushrod from Tallon Hydraulics.  They have the market cornered on those pushrods and I paid $17.52 to ship a blasted $15.00 pushrod!  Hopefully this weekend I'll get to cut down the brake pedal and get it machined up for welding.  I'm debating on what sort of joint I want to put in it instead of a straight butt joint when I weld the pieces back together.  I think a step joint would be both simple and stronger, just do I step it front to back or side to side?  Side to side would be easier as I don't have to file the corners square.  Thoughts?